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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
I have searched the internet and this site and cant find an answer to my question that works for me. My07 DL1000 will stall and run very crappy after rides of over 25 miles or so, usually i just use it for commuting to work (7 miles) so its a non issue on most days.It has a PC III on it and I would like to ride it without it to see if this is the problem,everywhere says that you just have to unplug it and plug the old connectors back together to get rid of it. I did this today and the bike wouldnt start and gave me the red FI light.Any help would be appreciated
 

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Try starting with the throttle cranked open. It could be that the idling is set too low or that you may have disconnected the wrong connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I followed the wiring harness from the PCIII up to the left hand side of the bike under the gas tank. I disconnected it and hooked the 2 connectors from the stock wiring harness back together.I hooked the battery back up and tried to start it, with the throttle wide open and closed, it never even sputtered and the FI light was on. Thanks for your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input on the TPS , i will look in my manual for testing procedures on it.
 

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If I understand you correctly, the fuel pump is priming with the ignition switched on, so the cutout switch is in the run position and the neutral light is on (out of gear) plus there is no CHECK on the display? The clutch switch is making contact and the starter motor turns the engine when depressing the starter button but the engine does not start?
Have you tried placing your bike into dealer mode, https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,7061.0.html or https://www.stromtrooper.com/4569938-post5.html? If you can get a display of the FI error code, it should help with the diagnostics.
What is the condition of the battery and terminals? If the battery is faulty, in that, there may not be enough amps to crank the motor or to prime the fuel pump. There have been a few reports of the stator magnets that have moved / damaged stator, https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-2002-2012/400946-stator-magnets-jb-weld-pictures.html.
Also if the CKPS is loose, https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650a-2012-2016/428273-stator-recall-beware-loose-ckps-c-12-error.html, the bike will crank but not start. Was any work was done in this area prior to the problem that you are having?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If I understand you correctly, the fuel pump is priming with the ignition switched on, so the cutout switch is in the run position and the neutral light is on (out of gear) plus there is no CHECK on the display? The clutch switch is making contact and the starter motor turns the engine when depressing the starter button but the engine does not start?
Have you tried placing your bike into dealer mode, FAQ: Dealer Mode & FI Error Codes or Does the onboard diagnostics save codes? If you can get a display of the FI error code, it should help with the diagnostics.
What is the condition of the battery and terminals? If the battery is faulty, in that, there may not be enough amps to crank the motor or to prime the fuel pump. There have been a few reports of the stator magnets that have moved / damaged stator, Stator magnets & JB Weld - pictures?.
Also if the CKPS is loose, Stator Recall - Beware of loose CKPS C-12 Error, the bike will crank but not start. Was any work was done in this area prior to the problem that you are having?
If I understand you correctly, the fuel pump is priming with the ignition switched on, so the cutout switch is in the run position and the neutral light is on (out of gear) plus there is no CHECK on the display? The clutch switch is making contact and the starter motor turns the engine when depressing the starter button but the engine does not start?
Have you tried placing your bike into dealer mode, FAQ: Dealer Mode & FI Error Codes or Does the onboard diagnostics save codes? If you can get a display of the FI error code, it should help with the diagnostics.
What is the condition of the battery and terminals? If the battery is faulty, in that, there may not be enough amps to crank the motor or to prime the fuel pump. There have been a few reports of the stator magnets that have moved / damaged stator, Stator magnets & JB Weld - pictures?.
Also if the CKPS is loose, Stator Recall - Beware of loose CKPS C-12 Error, the bike will crank but not start. Was any work was done in this area prior to the problem that you are having?
If I understand you correctly, the fuel pump is priming with the ignition switched on, so the cutout switch is in the run position and the neutral light is on (out of gear) plus there is no CHECK on the display? The clutch switch is making contact and the starter motor turns the engine when depressing the starter button but the engine does not start?
Have you tried placing your bike into dealer mode, FAQ: Dealer Mode & FI Error Codes or Does the onboard diagnostics save codes? If you can get a display of the FI error code, it should help with the diagnostics.
What is the condition of the battery and terminals? If the battery is faulty, in that, there may not be enough amps to crank the motor or to prime the fuel pump. There have been a few reports of the stator magnets that have moved / damaged stator, Stator magnets & JB Weld - pictures?.
Also if the CKPS is loose, Stator Recall - Beware of loose CKPS C-12 Error, the bike will crank but not start. Was any work was done in this area prior to the problem that you are having?
Just in case anybody reads this post and wonders what the problem was i wanted to tell you guys that Big B was right , it was the TPS sensor. I finally got around to fixing it today, put in the TPS and went for a 20 mile freeway ride and no issues whatsoever. Thanks for your guys input.
 

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Thanx for your feedback. Good to hear that you are sorted. To clarify your posts: "It has a PC III on it and I would like to ride it without it to see if this is the problem, everywhere says that you just have to unplug it and plug the old connectors back together to get rid of it. I did this today and the bike wouldn't start and gave me the red FI light." and from last post "it was the TPS sensor.", did you manage to get the bike started without the PCIII connected or did you keep the PC!!! connected and simply replace the TPS?
 
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