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Discussion Starter #1
I got these installed yesterday on my DL650.

My only advice to a non-mechanic (like me) who is considering doing this is that getting the side-stand bolt loose was a bear. When they put that bolt in, it wasn't with the idea that you would be removing it. And it didn't make me feel any more comfortable having the bike up on a track stand while doing it. (This is not to discourage you, but to prepare you to be patient and careful.)

I chose Pat Walsh over, say, SW-Motech for a couple of reasons. The foremost was design. I'm not a mechanical engineer, but I do know that the shortest path between two points is a straight line. Fewer tubes mean less weight (I'm assuming it weighs less, but I don't honestly know). The heart of the setup is the rock-solid, straight crossbar.

Now, about that crossbar: the instructions said to use the top holes on the bracket. Every photo I've seen has them installed on the bottom holes. I noticed crossbar wouldn't quite fit flush on the bottom holes, anyway, but I'm still curious: what gives?
 
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Top Mount worked for Us

The top holes for the cross bar mount worked for us.

If you are using the Oil Filter Giard, the top hole is the only configuration that will allow the guard to mount.

YRMV

Ride Em


:shock:
 

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An 18" breaker bar makes short, easy work of removing the sidestand bolt...
 

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the top holes worked fine for me for the dl 1000. however, i chose to use the bottom holes so i could fit highway pegs on the top ones.

good thing i did, too. the pegs stick out farther than the crash bars and saved my bike damage when some drunken rowdies tiped it over in the middle of the night (i don't have a garage.) :?

which brings me to another point, though i love the skid plate, and the bars offer handy attachment points for pegs and lights etc, i think they should stick out farther from the body to protect against damage. anyone else find the same "problem" with the design?
 
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