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Just clicked over 90K on my trusty Vee. I'll bet there are more out there getting close, too.

It has let me down only once the whole time when the stator failed at around 35K. I was using 100w bulbs in the HL and grip heaters.

Other than oil changes, brake pads, chain and sprockets and wheel brg. replacements, no other maintenence has been needed.

Lately, the FI light flashes randomly and the fuel pump doesnt energize upon start-up, but if I cycle the key once or twice, it always starts.

I run Anakees, DID chains, Valvoline MC oil and whatever gas is available.
I tried Tourances once, but I got 3K less miles out of them.
12-13K on rears, 22-26K on fronts. 20-24K on chains. 4-5K on oil.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Just clicked over 90K on my trusty Vee. I'll bet there are more out there getting close, too.

It has let me down only once the whole time when the stator failed at around 35K. I was using 100w bulbs in the HL and grip heaters.

Other than oil changes, brake pads, chain and sprockets and wheel brg. replacements, no other maintenence has been needed.

Lately, the FI light flashes randomly and the fuel pump doesnt energize upon start-up, but if I cycle the key once or twice, it always starts.

I run Anakees, DID chains, Valvoline MC oil and whatever gas is available.
I tried Tourances once, but I got 3K less miles out of them.
12-13K on rears, 22-26K on fronts. 20-24K on chains. 4-5K on oil.
On my ride yesterday my 2010 1000 started having the same problem with the FI light flashing and fuel pump not energizing. Kinda freaked me out when it would not start 250KM from home but like you if I tuned the key on and off it would fire up. I haven't had a chance to look into it yet but from the reading I have done it could be code C42 ignition switch Signal. I only have 17,000Km on my motorcycle so I was a bit surprised to be having a problem with my ignition switch so early.
 

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Just clicked over 90K on my trusty Vee. I'll bet there are more out there getting close, too.

It has let me down only once the whole time when the stator failed at around 35K. I was using 100w bulbs in the HL and grip heaters.

Other than oil changes, brake pads, chain and sprockets and wheel brg. replacements, no other maintenence has been needed.

Lately, the FI light flashes randomly and the fuel pump doesnt energize upon start-up, but if I cycle the key once or twice, it always starts.

I run Anakees, DID chains, Valvoline MC oil and whatever gas is available.
I tried Tourances once, but I got 3K less miles out of them.
12-13K on rears, 22-26K on fronts. 20-24K on chains. 4-5K on oil.
That's a lot of miles - I'm only 81,000 behind you! Just got a set of Anakee 2's and love them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
On my ride yesterday my 2010 1000 started having the same problem with the FI light flashing and fuel pump not energizing. Kinda freaked me out when it would not start 250KM from home but like you if I tuned the key on and off it would fire up. I haven't had a chance to look into it yet but from the reading I have done it could be code C42 ignition switch Signal. I only have 17,000Km on my motorcycle so I was a bit surprised to be having a problem with my ignition switch so early.
Mine has been doing it off and on for a couple of years now, thats how un-urgent the problem is to me
 

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looks just like mine. congrats on the mileage, now I know mine will go another 60,000. what is that windshield setup?
 

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Good for you,nice to see they can last as long as your has providing you maintain it. I also see your above the mason dixie line...thats also a pat on the back from me and worth extra points on bragging rights and 90+K!
 

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Lately, the FI light flashes randomly and the fuel pump doesnt energize upon start-up, but if I cycle the key once or twice, it always starts.
Probably the security code issue mine has. Cycling the kill switch does the same thing. Seems maybe dirty contact points are part of what is causing this. I sprayed cleaner into my kill switch and ignition switch. Seemed to help some. Ever since I have installed the Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit it has not acted up. I'll keep my fingers crossed............
 

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Just clicked over 90K on my trusty Vee. I'll bet there are more out there getting close, too.

It has let me down only once the whole time when the stator failed at around 35K. I was using 100w bulbs in the HL and grip heaters.

Other than oil changes, brake pads, chain and sprockets and wheel brg. replacements, no other maintenence has been needed.

Lately, the FI light flashes randomly and the fuel pump doesnt energize upon start-up, but if I cycle the key once or twice, it always starts.

I run Anakees, DID chains, Valvoline MC oil and whatever gas is available.
I tried Tourances once, but I got 3K less miles out of them.
12-13K on rears, 22-26K on fronts. 20-24K on chains. 4-5K on oil.
No Valve Adjustments required?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
looks just like mine. congrats on the mileage, now I know mine will go another 60,000. what is that windshield setup?
Thats a tall Suz. W/S and a Laminar Lip. Works OK, I guess. The 04 and up got the better WS setup.
 

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No Valve Adjustments required?
Havent even checked them. Probably never will. Engine runs and sounds the same as new. Its my rebellious nature, I guess:mrgreen:
 

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That's amazing! no valve adjust, I did mine at 14,000 mi and they were on the tight side. I've got 26,000 now and don't plan on checking them for awhile. Must be that high performance yellow! but I might be a bit bias!
 

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Yep, yellow is the fastest color!:hurray:
 

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bumblebee...tight is worse than loose. Tight can become no clearance which can lead to burning a valve.


90,000 makes me smile. I am 56,000 miles on a 07 Vee.
 

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Havent even checked them. Probably never will. Engine runs and sounds the same as new. Its my rebellious nature, I guess:mrgreen:
56,000 on my '08 and have never checked my valves either. But mines black and a Wee, so don't think it's the yellow color...... Hmmm :yikes: Sumthin bout dem Zuki engines.
 

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bumblebee...tight is worse than loose. Tight can become no clearance which can lead to burning a valve.
Yea, that's what I was trying to say, I had to loosen or create clearance with thinner shims to compensate for the valves setting into the heads deeper. that's why I was surprised to hear of Limobob's amazing mileage with no valve adjust. Just goes to show what a great motor these things have.
 

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Yep, mine were done first at around 20,000 miles and were slightly tight. They were reset and I will not check them again till around 70,000 miles.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I read the poll to say the first check is very important on a Vee...I believe this to be true with every bike and valve train design/type. After that...its not so important.
 
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