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06 Wee. 36,000 miles.

I did the valve check at 17,000. Bike running smooth, think it's okay to not check the valve clearance at this point?

Also where can I get all the needed maintenance items at one place, air/gas filter spark plug, coolant etc..

Anything else I might want to replace, 12 year old bike, yikes.........

It is garaged kept
 

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06 Wee. 36,000 miles.

I did the valve check at 17,000. Bike running smooth, think it's okay to not check the valve clearance at this point?

Also where can I get all the needed maintenance items at one place, air/gas filter spark plug, coolant etc..

Anything else I might want to replace, 12 year old bike, yikes.........

It is garaged kept
I love these kinds of questions! I have a 2010 Honda NT 700v touring bike worth maybe $3000 with 25,000. I have checked the valves twice. They hardly change. They are screw adjusters but they are a PITA to get to. I will never check them again unless I am bored. Too many important parts to disturb. Dont know about my 2017 XT. I doubt if I will ever check them as well as my 2014 FJR. But I am an old fart with maybe 10 years to live and I am retired and dont have to worry about my next pay check either....can I do the work? Sure, I was an aircraft mechanic. Do I WANT to do the work? No . Heck no. And there are too many posibilities for messing things up. If its working, leave it alone. If its not broke, dont fix it. Preventitive maintenance is good...oil and filters and fluids and lubing cables....tearing into a machine with all sorts of computer sensors....bad juju IMHO.
My Toyota dealer says no one ever checks their Toyota Corolla shims as they just dont change. Ford eco boost engines have shim under bucket with no check interval.

If this bike is important to you and you plan on keeping it, and you dont mind removing cams, I would do the valves and fluids, filters, etc and never do any of that again. I like Bike Bandit as I dont have to drive anywhere to get all my OEM bike parts....
 

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I do all the checks and adjustments at the specified intervals, sometimes earlier. I dont ride to wrench, I wrench so I can ride. Many subscribe to the principle of "If it ain't broke, dont fix it." I maintain so it doesnt break, then I dont have to fix it.
Nobody EVER adjusts the valves in their Miatas. But when I checked mine at the specified 60K-mile interval, 14 of the 16 were way loose. I put them all back in the dead center of spec, and the car ran like a whole new animal. And it ran just fine before. Throttle response, fuel economy, midrange torque all improved.
Same deal with my '00 Kawasaki ZRX. 7500 mile intervals, 8 of the 16 valves were way too tight. Swap and replace shims, sync the carbs afterwards, and all rideability improved. Yes, many cars and bikes are in or close to spec when checked--if they ere even ever checked. But you'll never hear a tight valve on it's way to burning. And if you were the 1 out of a thousand whose valves were out of spec, it wouldnt mean a thing about the other 999 bikes whose bikes were in spec.
There will always be ways to justify not doing the recommended maintenance. Fear of the unknown shouldnt be one of them.
 

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06 Wee. 36,000 miles. I did the valve check at 17,000. Bike running smooth, think it's okay to not check the valve clearance at this point?
Do you know where it was at 17K miles when you last checked? If it was at mid-spec or better (i.e. wider) then you are probably good for another 30K miles. If the clearances where tighter than mid-spec at the last check then they are probably still fine but you'll maybe want to check them in about 20K miles. If they were at the edge at 17K then you should check them now. Typically the clearances don't move much after break-in or until end-of-life (EOL) which is off in the distance for your bike. When you go back in to do a check/adjust at +60K miles just move them to the wide end of the spec and you won't have to touch them again unless you hit 120K miles.

BTW, one reason a valve clearance check is a regular maintenance item is that there are no symptoms until its too late. If the valves get tight the exhaust valves will fry which is not a symptom you want to see. On the other hand, Suzuki's recommended maintenance schedule is way to conservative for the valve clearance. They really don't move much till EOL.

Anything else I might want to replace, 12 year old bike, yikes.........It is garaged kept
It is more about the mileage than the years (though years does impact the degradation of rubber and plastic components, especially vacuum hoses which should be inspected and replaced with a high mileage bike). Here is my list (setting aside regular maintenance items);

  • 100K Miles: Lower suspension bearings, steering head bearings, wheel bearings, caliper & MC rebuild.
  • 60K Miles: Throttle bodies, Valve seals, Radiator hoses, Front/Rear shock.
Being stored in side is a big plus, especially for the rubber and plastic bits. Also, if you like to cross creeks or ride in the rain or in cold weather states with salted roads these 100K items should be replaced at 60K miles.
 

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Probably they will be fine. For me, probably would not be good enough. I'm with MAZ4ME on this one: maintenance and checks are done to catch things before they become a problem.

Another way to look at it: If I was a potential buyer for your bike (and the price was right), I would offer to split the cost of a valve check/adjust at your local dealer. I wouldn't buy it without the valve check, though.

..............shu
 

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Ive too have noticed that with my bikes purchased new, at higher mileages fewer needed to be adjusted. Normal break-in wear, etc.
But a consensus or poll isnt going to check my particular bike, isnt going to adjust it, or know if a valve is or isnt in spec.
And it most certainly isnt a justification for not doing the work.
To me, there is another aspect to this: An engine with valves in spec simply performs better. Ive seen on this and other sites riders spend untold $$$ on mods, farkles, you name it, but for some unknown reason go numb when asked about maintenance. Why WOULDNT you want the best the engine has to offer by doing adjustments that are part of routine maintenance? With items like like air filters or spark plugs the wear is over such a long time or mileage interval that you may not notice the degradation in performance. Valve adjustments fall into that same category. You could be missing out on improvements in throttle reponse, power, or fuel economy. Why would you want that?
 

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I checked the clearances on my Strom at 16000 miles and they were all in the middle of the specified range. I am due for another check now that the bike shows over 48,000, but its too hot now. I last changed the regular plugs at 21,000 miles and my Strom starts quicker than my FJR that I recently tuned up.
I will add that I am using Techron fuel system... and it seems to be helping both bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just found the valve clearance paperwork from 2011. What ye say? Can someone splain it to me based on these numbers?

I had the bike stripped down but got cold feet, ended up having a shop complete it. Didn't really trust them though...
 

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Unless I'm getting confused (it has happened) what I see is that the shop did a valve adjustment when none was needed.

I think the specs for the 2006 were Intake .10-.20mm; Exhaust .20-.30mm. (Correct me, someone, if I'm wrong, please.)

All of your values were within the limits of the 'good' zone' , specified by Suzuki. Yes, a couple were at the limit, but still 'good'. I'm quite sure that the mechanic who advises me would have said: "they're within the limits, don't mess with 'em. They specify a range for a reason."

On the other hand, they did put all the valves nicely into the middle of the range, so that's not a bad thing.

...............shu
 

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Comparison Data With My 2006 DL650

I too agree that your valves were originally in spec, but were adjusted closer to the middle range which is better than they were.

However, when I adjust my valves, I set everything to the high end of the spec because I find the valve adjustment to be a lengthy job which I prefer to avoid, if practical.

In order to do this, I do not merely change shims, I sometimes wet sand them to allow this high end of the spec adjustment, using sand paper, a flat piece of granite, and a pair of micrometers to measure them during the process. I am very meticulous about how I go about this. I have found no negative consequences in the 11,00mi since doing this on my 2006 DL650, and intend to do it this way on any shim under bucket engine in the future that I work on that requires a valve adjustment.

Please forgive my mm to in adjustments; I believe they are close enough.

(SPEC) Intake .004in - .008in = .1016mm - .2032mm
(SPEC) Exhaust .008in - .012in = 2032mm - .3048mm

Yours @ 17,221mi after your adjustment
Front
Intake Rt .17mm - .1015mm < .17mm < .2032mm ; within spec, no adjustment needed
Intake Lt .152mm - .1015mm < .152mm < .2032mm ; within spec, no adjustment needed
Exhaust Rt .254mm - .2032mm < .254mm < .3048mm ; within spec, no adjustment needed
Exhaust Lt .254mm - .2032mm < .254mm < .3048mm ; within spec, no adjustment needed
Rear
(You should be able to judge the rear yourself following the example above)

My 2006 DL650 @ 14, 696mi needed no valve adjustment, but at 25,678 mi, they did.
The most significant change that occurred during that 10.982mi span was that my exhaust valves went from .2286mm to .2mm, which justified a valve adjustment.

Another 2006 DL650 owner who posted his valve adjustment notes on this website had the exact same readings as I did at the same approximate point in mileage. For me, the valve seating that occurs during the first 26k mi is particularly dynamic but can vary with different years/models of engines using shim under bucket valves. The 26k mi valve check is one that I believe is particularly important.

Your valves were adjusted at 17,221mi, while mine did not need to be adjusted until 26k mi. Draw what inference you like from the above data.
 

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Just found the valve clearance paperwork from 2011. What ye say? Can someone splain it to me based on these numbers?
The spec for the intake is 0.100mm to 0.200mm so mid-range is 0.150mm. Your mechanic adjusted the intake clearances to 0.170mm, 0.152mm, 0.150mm, 0.180mm so at the time of adjustment at 17,221 miles your intake clearances were at the 0.150mm middle or a bit wider (which is good as the valve clearance close over time).

The spec for the exhaust is 0.200mm to 0.300mm so mid-range is 0.250mm. Your mechanic adjusted the exhaust clearances to 0.254mm, 0.254mm, 0.280mm, 0.254mm so at the time of the adjustment at 17,221 miles your exhaust clearances were at the middle of the spec with one a bit wider, all good.

So your question is should you do a check now at 36K miles. For the reasons in post #4, I think you can go 40-50K miles from the last check so no need to check till 57-67K miles. It is low risk, the clearances don't move much after the first check. If you are worried then do them at 45K or 50K miles but they are almost certainly not tight now. Also, the motor won't blow up if an intake spec goes to 0.100mm or an exhaust to 0.200mm, technically those clearance are still in spec but the trick is to catch it before gets there (or beyond) with minimum hassle and cost. Last time I adjusted my valves at 80K miles I bought custom shims to put the gaps at the wide limit of the spec (0.200mm for the intakes and 0.300mm for the exhausts) because I never wanted to adjust them again.

Greywolf comment 1

Greywolf comment 2
 

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I check valves once on my bikes at around 20,000 to 30,000 miles (me, not the dealer). If they are not out of spec, I go to around 60,000. If they are still fine or just a little tight, I adjust if necessary and never touch them again.

On my DL1000, at around 30,000 miles, 2 were borderline tight on the exhaust side and I left them alone. I adjusted them at around 50,000 miles, since the same 2 had tightened just a frog hair more. Never touched that bike again and it is well over 100,000 miles now.

Shim and bucket valves are very durable and I can not EVER recall reading a burned valve story. But, I can recall reading MANY "I screwed up" stories about valve adjustments gone wrong.
 

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The spec for the intake is 0.100mm to 0.200mm so mid-range is 0.150mm. Your mechanic adjusted the intake clearances to 0.170mm, 0.152mm, 0.150mm, 0.180mm so at the time of adjustment at 17,221 miles your intake clearances were at the 0.150mm middle or a bit wider (which is good as the valve clearance close over time).

The spec for the exhaust is 0.200mm to 0.300mm so mid-range is 0.250mm. Your mechanic adjusted the exhaust clearances to 0.254mm, 0.254mm, 0.280mm, 0.254mm so at the time of the adjustment at 17,221 miles your exhaust clearances were at the middle of the spec with one a bit wider, all good.

So your question is should you do a check now at 36K miles. For the reasons in post #4, I think you can go 40-50K miles from the last check so no need to check till 57-67K miles. It is low risk, the clearances don't move much after the first check. If you are worried then do them at 45K or 50K miles but they are almost certainly not tight now. Also, the motor won't blow up if an intake spec goes to 0.100mm or an exhaust to 0.200mm, technically those clearance are still in spec but the trick is to catch it before gets there (or beyond) with minimum hassle and cost. Last time I adjusted my valves at 80K miles I bought custom shims to put the gaps at the wide limit of the spec (0.200mm for the intakes and 0.300mm for the exhausts) because I never wanted to adjust them again.

Greywolf comment 1

Greywolf comment 2
Where do you buy 'custom shims', and how much do they cost ? Please post a link.
 

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I love these kinds of questions! I have a 2010 Honda NT 700v touring bike worth maybe $3000 with 25,000. I have checked the valves twice. They hardly change. They are screw adjusters but they are a PITA to get to. I will never check them again unless I am bored. Too many important parts to disturb. Dont know about my 2017 XT. I doubt if I will ever check them as well as my 2014 FJR. But I am an old fart with maybe 10 years to live and I am retired and dont have to worry about my next pay check either....can I do the work? Sure, I was an aircraft mechanic. Do I WANT to do the work? No . Heck no. And there are too many posibilities for messing things up. If its working, leave it alone. If its not broke, dont fix it. Preventitive maintenance is good...oil and filters and fluids and lubing cables....tearing into a machine with all sorts of computer sensors....bad juju IMHO.
My Toyota dealer says no one ever checks their Toyota Corolla shims as they just dont change. Ford eco boost engines have shim under bucket with no check interval.

If this bike is important to you and you plan on keeping it, and you dont mind removing cams, I would do the valves and fluids, filters, etc and never do any of that again. I like Bike Bandit as I dont have to drive anywhere to get all my OEM bike parts....
I check valves once on my bikes at around 20,000 to 30,000 miles (me, not the dealer). If they are not out of spec, I go to around 60,000. If they are still fine or just a little tight, I adjust if necessary and never touch them again.

On my DL1000, at around 30,000 miles, 2 were borderline tight on the exhaust side and I left them alone. I adjusted them at around 50,000 miles, since the same 2 had tightened just a frog hair more. Never touched that bike again and it is well over 100,000 miles now.

Shim and bucket valves are very durable and I can not EVER recall reading a burned valve story. But, I can recall reading MANY "I screwed up" stories about valve adjustments gone wrong.

I must say that in all of the years I have been on this website, I cannot recall of anyone burning up a valve and attributing it to not adjusting the valves, but I have read a number of posts where people either never adjusted their valves until 80K+ mi, or never adjust them at all.

Are their valves out of spec ? Almost certainly.
Are they getting the best performance out of their engines ? Probably Not.
Are they burning up their valves as a consequence of not adjusting them ? Apparently not, because if you burn up an exhaust valve, you will know it.

I am not someone who has neglected their valves, and do not want to encourage that, but I do find the above facts interesting. For me, I was always too scared to neglect them, because I feared the consequences, and was not sure just how far you could push the limits of this maintenance procedure.
 

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On the other hand, they did put all the valves nicely into the middle of the range, so that's not a bad thing.

...............shu
I agree, and it does not cost much to have the set to middle specs once you/I/they are already in there. That shop did exactly what I would have wanted.

We sanded shims on a belt sander on my buddys beater high mileage DL(he is a cheap bastard). His valves were so far out if spec tight that the engine was knocking.....put them back to spec and the knock went away....amazed me, I thought the old girl was done for. It think his exhaust were at .140 or .150, but it's been awhile. He bought it that way...cheap.
 
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