[LordSmoke]

Shortly after I got mine fitted, they stopped. Turns out all the finagling had loosened the connectors. A little pressure with a probe to tighten up the female parts (oh, if everything was that easy :mrgreen, and viola, heat. Also keep in mind that they are supposed to turn off at low voltage, so make sure either the bike is running or the battery is very charged.

 

[revrandy]

By swapping out I did mean replacements. The bike was running in each case, but in neutral parked in my garage. Does it need to be on the road generating more power for them to work?

My connectors seem tight, though it wouldn't hurt to tighten them even more.

This has me totally baffled.

 

[LordSmoke]

Do the lights come on? I don't usually have a problem on the Wee, but sometimes have to give the Helix a couple of revs to get then to stay on. Flashing lights should mean low voltage, solid means they are on. Solid, no heat meant for me that the grip connectors were loose. Might be time to poke around with a multimeter.

 

[revrandy]

No lights come on at all (on the Oxford's). I will poke with multimeter today.

 

[revrandy]

Ok I poked around with the multimeter. 12.7 v coming out of the horn adapter, 1.5 - 1.7 coming out of the black controller (not the one on the handlebar the one that mounts under the seat).

My last set never had this under seat controller, just the switch on the handlebars wired directly to the battery. Never had any problems with them until they got wrecked after the bike was "tenderized" and repaired. Crap, I wish I still had them.

 

[TomDevlin]

I put new heated grips on my bike (hey it is getting down to 63F tonight in So Cal :green_lol: ) but they won't turn on.

They are the one's with a switch mounted on the handlebar and a controller that mounts under the seat.

First I had them wired directly to the battery, no luck. Then I wired them to the spare horn hook-up, no luck.

Next I tried swapping out the switch on the handlebar, no luck. Then I swapped out the controller that mounts under the seat, no luck.

The fuse is not blown, my battery is brand new. Any thoughts?

Oh yeah, the swap out was new parts for new parts - I ended up with 2 sets instead of one when I ordered them.

I'm no expert but it seems to me that if you temporarily wired them directly to your battery and did it correctly then that's your most direct path and if the bike is charging ok and the battery is good, you will have narrowed it down to a problem with the grips. Bad wire? Bad controller?

I have a friend who got his working when wired directly to the battery but when he went through his aux. fuse box they wouldn't work anymore.

 

[revrandy]

I'm no expert but it seems to me that if you temporarily wired them directly to your battery and did it correctly then that's your most direct path and if the bike is charging ok and the battery is good, you will have narrowed it down to a problem with the grips. Bad wire? Bad controller?

I have a friend who got his working when wired directly to the battery but when he went through his aux. fuse box they wouldn't work anymore.

I tried 2 different sets of wires and 2 different controllers. Hard to believe 2 brand new sets in the box would fail.

 

[LordSmoke]

In my experience, be warned that technically they do automatically turn off under low voltage...when the battery is dead. When you get them working, put them on a relay.

 

[PTRider]

Start at the power source and check for voltage at every connection along the way all the way to the grips. Unplug the grips and read their resistance (the Ω setting) and post the result. Never use the Ω setting on a circuit with voltage--at best you'll blow a fuse in your meter; at worse you'll smoke the meter. Put the controller on highest power so you're getting highest voltage sent through. You'll either find one connection with no voltage indicating a bad component or a loose wire, or you'll find something you didn't get installed right.

 

[WeeInBC]

In my experience, be warned that technically they do automatically turn off under low voltage...when the battery is dead. When you get them working, put them on a relay.

That was exactly my experience. And I second the assessment that if it won't turn on when directly connected to the battery, it's either the control module or switch.

Needless to say I was VERY disappointed that Oxford touts that they will automagically turn off with low voltage - more accurately, they will turn off after they kill your battery. Do *NOT* assume that this so-called feature will save your battery! One Fuzeblock later, and I was good to go.

 

[tmcgee]

Ok I poked around with the multimeter. 12.7 v coming out of the horn adapter, 1.5 - 1.7 coming out of the black controller (not the one on the handlebar the one that mounts under the seat).

What's up with this controller? Who makes it?

Does it have a temperature sensor in it? Mine does. The grips don't work unless it's cold out, or you put the switch in the bypass position.

 

[Appalachian Rider]

I have the new Oxfords that have the under the seat module and I had to contact the dealer because they didn't work when installed. They were replaced and work great now but I wouldn't rule out the 2 new units being defective. After a little research I found that this is not an uncommon problem in the new style. BTW I got them because my old style Oxfords crapped out after a weekend of wet riding and water got into the controller. Hopefully I won't have 3 strikes against Oxford.

 

[WeeInBC]

What's up with this controller? Who makes it?

Does it have a temperature sensor in it? Mine does. The grips don't work unless it's cold out, or you put the switch in the bypass position.

What's the bypass position?

 

[WeeInBC]

I have the new Oxfords that have the under the seat module and I had to contact the dealer because they didn't work when installed. They were replaced and work great now but I wouldn't rule out the 2 new units being defective. After a little research I found that this is not an uncommon problem in the new style. BTW I got them because my old style Oxfords crapped out after a weekend of wet riding and water got into the controller. Hopefully I won't have 3 strikes against Oxford.

I had difficulties with the first switch I installed - had to replace it. I'm afraid I can't recommend the Oxfords from a build/engineering standpoint. Once mine wear out (the replacement switch is cranky), I won`t be buying them again.

 

[RowBust]

I've never had a problem with the Oxfords. Check the 6 pin connector between the module and the controller, sometimes it can be not pushed completely home.