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Discussion Starter #1
First day out with new Oxford Heaterz. Noticed on my way to work that I had set the controller to 40%, but half way there, the controller was on 70%. Thought it was odd, but decided that I hit the button by accident.

On the way home, same thing. Started at 40%. At some point it switched itself to 70%. Anyone else experience this?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The Oxford kit seems well made and reasonably weather resistant. At this point, it is a minor annoyance, as long as they keep putting out the heat.
 

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First day out with new Oxford Heaterz. Noticed on my way to work that I had set the controller to 40%, but half way there, the controller was on 70%. Thought it was odd, but decided that I hit the button by accident.

On the way home, same thing. Started at 40%. At some point it switched itself to 70%. Anyone else experience this?
If it's new they should replace it.
I have that setup and it's been trouble free.
 

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I have not had the issue with my oxford controller but would find it to be very annoying. I would be sure to exchange it while under warranty. Problems usually get worse instead of better over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I have not had the issue with my oxford controller but would find it to be very annoying. I would be sure to exchange it while under warranty. Problems usually get worse instead of better over time.
I leave for a long weekend trip on Thursday morning. Will have ample opportunity to test it out. If the problem persists, I'll replace it next week. I've also sent an e-mail to customer service in the UK. Thanks.

Edit: BTW I strapped the wiring for the grips along the wire bundle that runs through the left side cowling and stuffed the controller into the same rubber jacket that covers the large connector in the left cowling. Oxford says something about electomagnetic interference, so maybe that is the source of the problem, and maybe that's why no one else seems to have had this particular problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got a prompt and positive reply for Oxford customer service this morning. They suggested that I check the controller connector for bent pins. Failing that, they told me to return the controller portion of the harness to the retailer and request an over the counter replacement.
 

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The Oxford controllers (the second generation ones) have crapped out on both my V-Strom and FZ6. Think I'll just replace them with a simple on/off switch.
 

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The Oxford controllers (the second generation ones) have crapped out on both my V-Strom and FZ6. Think I'll just replace them with a simple on/off switch.
I have the same issue with their $hit controllers.:thumbdown: I want to replace it with a simple 3 position toggle. High/Off/Low I think this can be accomplished by wiring them in parallel for high and series for low (or is it the other way around:confused:). I haven't looked at the wiring coming out of the grips for a while now, so I'm not sure how many wires there are. I think I’ll post up and see if anyone has done this.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Parallel for high and series for low will do it. I'm way better at following a wiring diagram than creating one but a DPDT center off switch is what I came up with to do the trick. It has six connections in this configuration

1 2
3 4

5 6


to be wired like this.

Connect 1 and 2 with a jumper wire. Connect one grip to 3 and 6. Connect the other grip to 4 and 5. Connect 5 and 6 to the battery or an ignition switched fuse block. Switched is better or you'll leave them on and drain the battery some day. With the switch centered, the grips will be off. With the center connected to the top, heat will be low. With the center connected to the bottom, heat will be high.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks GW. Looks like a relatively simple work-around. BTW, is it normal for their controller to come on (grips powered on at low setting) at key-on (I'm using the OEM switched connector).
 

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For as good as the Oxford grips are, their controllers are the cause of heartache for a good many people. The best solution, IMO, is to go with a Heat-troller instead of the Oxford controller. You get infinite adjustability, the ability to panel-mount the knob, and bomb-proof reliability.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I'm not familiar with the Oxford controller other than it is supposed to go off at a certain voltage level to save the battery if left on with the ignition off. I'll second the Warm & Safe heat troller as a better option.
 

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That low voltage relay only opens the heater circuit. The control circuit remains connected and will drain the battery over a few days. I learned this the hard way and now have mine connected to the tail light circuit, so it is effectively switched.
 

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Parallel for high and series for low will do it. I'm way better at following a wiring diagram than creating one but a DPDT center off switch is what I came up with to do the trick. It has six connections in this configuration

1 2
3 4

5 6


to be wired like this.

Connect 1 and 2 with a jumper wire. Connect one grip to 3 and 6. Connect the other grip to 4 and 5. Connect 5 and 6 to the battery or an ignition switched fuse block. Switched is better or you'll leave them on and drain the battery some day. With the switch centered, the grips will be off. With the center connected to the top, heat will be low. With the center connected to the bottom, heat will be high.

Thanks for your reply and I just found a wiring diagram at http://www.instructables.com/id/SIMP...Select-Switch/ describing exactly what you have posted. There is a diagram there of a DPDT toggle switch showing the current flow at each of the 3 positions. After I get this wired up I'll report back on how well it works. Thanks again greywolf.:thumbup:
 

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For as good as the Oxford grips are, their controllers are the cause of heartache for a good many people. The best solution, IMO, is to go with a Heat-troller instead of the Oxford controller. You get infinite adjustability, the ability to panel-mount the knob, and bomb-proof reliability.
That is what I did. It is still easy to wire up.
 

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Thanks for your reply and I just found a wiring diagram at http://www.instructables.com/id/SIMP...Select-Switch/ describing exactly what you have posted. There is a diagram there of a DPDT toggle switch showing the current flow at each of the 3 positions. After I get this wired up I'll report back on how well it works. Thanks again greywolf.:thumbup:
EZRDR - did you ever get this hooked up? I plan to do the same this afternoon. I never used the 100% setting with the electronic controller (now bricked after 7 months) but I suppose it is worth having.
 

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GW - I assume that polarity doesn't really matter in all of this?

Lockitt includes a note indicating that Oxford uses the connectors backwards of other people so their polarity is reversed, but even looking at the Oxford y connector it doesn't seem to be consistent.

Parallel for high and series for low will do it. I'm way better at following a wiring diagram than creating one but a DPDT center off switch is what I came up with to do the trick. It has six connections in this configuration

1 2
3 4

5 6


to be wired like this.

Connect 1 and 2 with a jumper wire. Connect one grip to 3 and 6. Connect the other grip to 4 and 5. Connect 5 and 6 to the battery or an ignition switched fuse block. Switched is better or you'll leave them on and drain the battery some day. With the switch centered, the grips will be off. With the center connected to the top, heat will be low. With the center connected to the bottom, heat will be high.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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GW - I assume that polarity doesn't really matter in all of this?

Lockitt includes a note indicating that Oxford uses the connectors backwards of other people so their polarity is reversed, but even looking at the Oxford y connector it doesn't seem to be consistent.
Polarity doesn't matter with a switch. It mattered with the input to the controller because it was solid state and the components are polarity sensitive. It doesn't matter with the output because it's just feeding a heating coil.

Be aware many switches are configured so the direction of the handle is opposite the side of the connections that are made.

 

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Thank you kind sir. I plan to head out for a southern CO loop tomorrow whenever I wake up (no pancakes on the plaza for me), so it could be in the 50's and I'll want them.
 
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