StromTrooper banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I had Oxford heated grips professionally installed over a year ago. They worked fine all last cold weather season, but this year, when I turn them on, the 5 amp fuze blows immediately.

They are wired direct to the battery and the fuze is in the Oxford power line. I haven't had anything done to the bike since they were installed that would have had a mechanic messing around near the power wires, where they might have been impinged on, causing a short.

Any ideas as to how to start troubleshooting this? I sent an email to Oxford to see if they had any ideas, but frankly, I'm not expecting a lot there. They will likely blame the installation.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,254 Posts
Sems that was happening to me and there was a short against the handlebar - was not obvious ...wire had worn through maybe from turning handlebars or clutch action Can't recall
Was at the controller
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Sems that was happening to me and there was a short against the handlebar - was not obvious ...wire had worn through maybe from turning handlebars or clutch action Can't recall
Was at the controller
Thanks, I'll look at that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I could not find anything obvious around the controller, but I did a little diagnostics and found that if the handlebars are all the way to the left, the thing works. If I move it to the right, it either cuts out or blows the fuze. So I obviously have bare wires in the cowling somewhere. But nothing looks damaged and nothing looks like it has been pinched or could get pinched. It doesn't look like any of the wires get stretched either. I guess I will have to get it working and then just bend the cables every quarter of an inch or so until I get a reaction.

There are three quick disconnects in the system. One apparently inline from the controller and one from each grip. I guess the problem could be one of the connectors also.

If anyone has any advice about making the process of tracking this problem down easier, please let me know. I'm sure I can fix it if I can find it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,254 Posts
Did you look under the controller? ...seems I recall it was not obvious ..moving the bars maybe a red herring ...might just be changiing the position of the short ...the bare metal of the bars is the most likely short. If you search on here for my posts you might come across it a couple years back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,509 Posts
@jmf552, can you temporary connect a bulb (eg indicator bulb will work) across the fuse holder, in place of the fuse or to the power feed of the Qxford unit and battery live? This will save you on replacing fuses, until such time you have located your wiring problem / short.
Once the bulb wired in, any short to earth will cause the bulb to burn on its brightest, since the "bulb fuse" is wired to the battery live terminal. Electrical faults are often difficult to locate. Remember to replace the temporary bulb fuse arrangement, with the correct fuse before buttoning up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
@jmf552, can you temporary connect a bulb (eg indicator bulb will work) across the fuse holder, in place of the fuse or to the power feed of the Qxford unit and battery live? This will save you on replacing fuses, until such time you have located your wiring problem / short.
Once the bulb wired in, any short to earth will cause the bulb to burn on its brightest, since the "bulb fuse" is wired to the battery live terminal. Electrical faults are often difficult to locate. Remember to replace the temporary bulb fuse arrangement, with the correct fuse before buttoning up.
If I can rig a bulb I will. I suppose I could alternatively use a VOM meter with the voltage set to 12 or higher. I could not burn that out.

I was also surprised to get an answer from Oxford this morning. They said to test the resistance on the left and right grips. The left should read 6 ohms and the right should read 7. I would also wiggle the wires going to them to see if anything changes. If they do, those circuits are OK. Then the tech said hook up the controller by itself. If it is the controller or wiring, it should blow the fuze or set off the VOM on its own.

I will try all these ideas and post back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I figured it out and I'm embarrassed to say that it was simpler than I thought. Before I said, "I obviously have bare wires in the cowling somewhere. But nothing looks damaged and nothing looks like it has been pinched or could get pinched." That was not true as it turned out.

I started to do the diagnostics suggested above and discovered two adjacent bare wires in the cowling that had been in a position that was hard to see. They were just outside the block connector going to the controller. The diagram below is of course not to scale. That block connector was not near the controller, rather way down in the right side of the fairing. I still can't figure out how the wires got pinched. There was nothing that looked like it could impinge on them, even moving the handlebars lock to lock.

The problem was too close to the block connector to splice the wires with the connector still in, so I cut it out altogether and spliced the wires directly, the old-fashioned way, with wire nuts and electrical tape. The whole thing works fine now.

Thanks for the advice!
 

Attachments

1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top