StromTrooper banner

Overheated engine damage?

3734 Views 22 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Nick_T
Hello, I have a Vstrom dl1000 2004. Last time I drove it (on a pretty warm day (around 28 degrees celsius) and noticed the overheat light go on. I pulled over and stopped the engine in around 2 minutes but the engine already sputtered the coolant out. The coolant was boiling. I waited for an hour for the bike to cool down then I drove the bike home and the bike overheated again. Back home i noticed that the fan on the radiator wasn’t working. I fixed the fan, changed the coolant and drove the bike again. The temp gauge was staying in the zone of 2-3 bars (out of 5) and went to 4bars a couple of times only at long traffic lights. Then I heard the bikes fan go on and it dropped again to 3bars. The voltage meter does drop when to 13.4-13.5V when the fan is on. The bike performs normally (so I think). Do you think that it could suffer any internal damage from the 2 overheatings and how could I check if there is any damage on the bike? Another unrelated question, I checked my chain stretch and it was like a mm above the manuals recomendation to change it. Could the chain snap or is it ok like this? Thanks for all the input.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Well, it depends?

If the fan you fixed was causing the bike to overheat, you should be done. I would ride your bike and pay close attention to engine temperature and coolant level.

The bike will tell you if you hurt it. Liked burping more coolant out.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
There is no need to worry about an extra mm of chain slack. I think you will find a lot of the riders on this forum keep to the long side of the recommended slack, or even a few mm longer.
  • Like
Reactions: 5
Agree with STCorndog; keep checking the engine temp when riding and check the coolant reservoir as well. I also suggest keep checking the oil level, see if it goes up....which would be bad, very bad......
  • Like
Reactions: 1
The thing is how fast does it get hot now.

If it is no faster than it was before you probably don't have a problem.

It sounds like the fan is doing it's job, keep a eye on the voltage to ensure the fan is not being required too early.

Keep a eye out for moisture in the oil and the coolant level for a few weeks, if they are OK just ride and enjoy you steed.
This would be a great opportunity for an oil analysis, if there's a lab that works for you shipping-wise. In the US, I would use Blackstone.
There is no need to worry about an extra mm of chain slack. I think you will find a lot of the riders on this forum keep to the long side of the recommended slack, or even a few mm longer.
he was referring to chain stretch NOT slack, in his case I would stick to the manual and replace it
Hello, thanks for all the input. I went for a 30min ride today around town and afterwards I noticed that the oil (in the sight glass) is foamy on top. The temp gauge was normal, mostly 2bars, at the end of the ride it was 3bars.
Foamy oil is not a good sign I presume, right?
White foamy,off white like mushroom soup?
Hello, thanks for all the input. I went for a 30min ride today around town and afterwards I noticed that the oil (in the sight glass) is foamy on top. The temp gauge was normal, mostly 2bars, at the end of the ride it was 3bars.
Foamy oil is not a good sign I presume, right?
Lot going on here so let me take the chain issue first. If beyond the recommended specification on pin to pin distance, I would replace the chain and sprockets. They don't give any warning beyond showing you they have stretched that much when it comes to them failing. A broken chain can often ruin the bike as on the DL 1000 it will often shear off the clutch slave cylinder mounts and that cannot be easily fixed.
A 30 minute ride isn't always enough time to fully heat up the engine oil/crankcase area. That can mean some condensation in there does not get evaporated out and can cause a milky or foamy look. I cannot tell you that is exactly what is going on, but since you are no doubt hyper aware of something to look for out of place I think it is very possible.
The main thing is that it is running good. You have fixed the fan ( not an uncommon issue). These engines are very tough. Really don't hear of head gasket issues from overheating on these. As mentioned earlier, the main thing I would be watching is coolant level. If that stays the same I think there is no problem. Since the bike did get hot, I might consider an oil change anyway to get that oil out and start with fresh. Oil is also a coolant and while probably just fine I would change it.
You are far from the first to have had this exact thing happen. I don't remember anyone having engine problems from it.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
he was referring to chain stretch NOT slack, in his case I would stick to the manual and replace it
Yes, I mis-read that. Pin to pin stretch should not be ignored.
30 minutes may not be long enough to get a good indication.

Have a look in the oil window before your next ride and then 30 minutes after it.

Also pull out the oil fill hole plug and look on the under side for milky white crud mixed with the oil.

If you can post a good photo it could help us help you.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
White foamy,off white like mushroom soup?
This is the foam that I was talking about. Its a bit more white than mushroom soup :D
Automotive tire Automotive design Rim Automotive exterior Wheel
See less See more
This is from another 10 minute ride, because I don't want to ride too far in case something goes wrong. I'd like to get a fuller picture before I go on the next long trip. Also I have to change the chain, which is a bummer cause I changed it last year and only done like 1000 km with it. Thats why I was surprised to see that it had stretched so much in such little time.
Did you get a brandname chain (DID for instance) or some cheap Chinese thing off eBay? A proper brand name chain suitable for your bike (525, O- or X-ring), properly installed and adjusted, should not show any signs of wear after just 1000km, even if you did not do any maintenance at all. To me this sounds like a warranty claim.

I can only think of two ways to ruin a new chain in such a short time. One is to adjust it way too tight - and that should probably kill your countershaft bearings as well -, and the other is cleaning it with a pressure washer.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I changed it last year and only done like 1000 km with it
I can only think of two ways to ruin a new chain in such a short time. One is to adjust it way too tight - and that should probably kill your countershaft bearings as well -, and the other is cleaning it with a pressure washer.
It might be worth revisiting my original mistake on this thread. Did you measure the chain stretch (the distance between 21 pins, not sure what the spec is on this bike, but my 2nd gen wee is 319.4mm) or the chain slack (how much the chain moves up and down in the middle of the run, in the 20 to 30mm range with the bike on the side stand). Please forgive me for putting these definitions into the question, but like @BackPacker, I'm having trouble imagining a chain wearing out that quickly, and thought perhaps a language issue might be the real problem.
It might be worth revisiting my original mistake on this thread. Did you measure the chain stretch (the distance between 21 pins, not sure what the spec is on this bike, but my 2nd gen wee is 319.4mm) or the chain slack (how much the chain moves up and down in the middle of the run, in the 20 to 30mm range with the bike on the side stand). Please forgive me for putting these definitions into the question, but like @BackPacker, I'm having trouble imagining a chain wearing out that quickly, and thought perhaps a language issue might be the real problem.
It was the chain stretch not slack. I measured the distance between 21 pins.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Did you get a brandname chain (DID for instance) or some cheap Chinese thing off eBay? A proper brand name chain suitable for your bike (525, O- or X-ring), properly installed and adjusted, should not show any signs of wear after just 1000km, even if you did not do any maintenance at all. To me this sounds like a warranty claim.

I can only think of two ways to ruin a new chain in such a short time. One is to adjust it way too tight - and that should probably kill your countershaft bearings as well -, and the other is cleaning it with a pressure washer.
I have no idea which chain it is because my previous mechanic installed it and never got me the receipt. I changed the mechanic and he told me that the chain was ok. But I have trouble now trusting mechanics because they screwed me over a couple of times and I like to check things on my own now. The mechanic who told me the chain was ok obviously didn't check the chain, otherwise he would have told me that the distance is on the limit. He also told me my radiator doesn't have a fan, then I checked on my own and of course it had one.
This may not matter, but how I check chain stretch or wear is really simple. Bike off, I grab the chain at the back sprocket and try and pull it away from the sprocket at the 3 o'clock position. If it lifts and starts to move away the chain is approaching toast or is bad.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Me too. And the neat thing about that method is that it doesn't require a ruler and a lot of care in measuring properly. Plus, it measures sprocket wear in addition to chain stretch.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top