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Hi All

Hope all is well?

Wanted to join this forum for quite some time now and now I have a good reason! :smile2: .. I can also share in the awesomeness!

First off, iv'e hit a bit of a big issue which I have researched up to my neck and there isn't much about this on the DL1000A (new shape)
The big problem is that there is either something really wrong in my gearbox or one of the Output Shaft / Drive Shaft bearings went (or maybe both of the input and output shaft bearings). This is from just a look from the side and symptoms from previous, similar issues that I have read up about and taken into consideration but cannot be sure. I know for a fact though, that something has conked out in the gear box.

Here is what happened. Was out for a Sunday Run (about 120km round trip, quite a hot day) and after my last stop heading home, when I went into 3rd gear, gear indicator started flipping between gears but was still in 3rd. (6...4...3...1..5..3..etc). Then I felt a bit of a "clucking" coming from the chain. When I stopped at home, inspected the chain and saw it was a bit dirty but not extremely bad...and it was also a bit loose. Cleaned it and re-lubed it. (Chain and Sprockets were due to be done at 24000km) bike currently at 22000km.

The next day off too work, the "cluncking" was worse... Long story Short, Pulling it back into the garage, putting it in first and pulling away, a big Gush of oil just spat out from the Sprocket side. Immediately switched off and did the inspection.

After possible issues, I then changed the Front Sprocket Oil Seal, tightened the chain and lubed it again. And....with no Avail...the same issue but this time even worse (guess the tension on the chain had made it worse again. There was also no play on the shaft so wasn't to sure.....the chain tension was done to spec. Just to mention, the drive shaft turned smoothly and then after a 3/4 turn it got very stiff for half a turn and then smooth again.

So....
1. The bearings are standard Ball bearings on the Input/output Shafts..... Will it not be a better idea to get Roller Bearings for the shafts while I am at it in replacing it? That is if it is the bearings.
2. This is a huge job as I found that the entire engine needs to be stripped to split the crank case and replace the bearings...Is there an easier way?
3. Seeing that the engine will be opened up, is there any extra mods, or upgrades (longevity or better performance mods) that can be done while the engine is open?
4. Bike is just out of warranty so no help from Suzuki South Africa on this one....if I do this my self, is there any documentation on this?
5. Lastly...I am thinking of doing this my self perhaps (I have never done such a big job on any engine, so its going to be an all newby job)
Any tips what so ever...from right at the start of dropping the engine out, removing the heads, pistons, crank, gears and the lot...

A trusted Mac that I know can do just the labor for roughly R 10 000 (about $ 720) without parts...which is a lot for me.
If I can do this myself, I will know all the ins and outs of my bike. But getting the tools (and what tools to get) to do all this will probably be just as expensive

Sorry for the huge thread, but sheesh, this is the shortest I could put it in.

Thanks in advance, much appreciated.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Just replace the bearing with the same size ball bearing. I imagine you are thinking tapered roller bearing when you said roller bearing. There is no end movement to contain in that shaft so a ball bearing is the appropriate choice. Make sure the shaft hasn't been bent. That's about the only thing you need to check. The stock system works fine so there is no need to make a change. Do find out what caused the problem in the first place. The usual suspect is a too tight chain.

I'm pretty sure that bearing has to be seated from the inside so the cases do need to be split to replace it.
 

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Sounds like a huge job. The Suzuki service manual has pictures and instructions on the engine that may help you. Manual is $100 though.

I have never taken a motor apart so could only guess at things same as you. You need a lot of space to work on a project like this and you need lots of bins to hold the bolts, or maybe use zip lock bags to keep everything separated and organized. Label everything that you take off and maybe assign a number, then draw it on an engine map. You don't want to end up with extra spacers or bolts at the end.

You need all new gaskets too most likely. These may be hard to get, not sure.

That sucks about the Warranty expiring, I think if it was me I would complain to Suzuki directly as that sounds Warranty related, although they may blame it on a chain that was too tight or something.

Best of luck.
 

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I would be very hesitant to split the cases unless you are an extremely experienced mechanic. Maybe you could save some bucks on labor by pulling the engine yourself and taking it to your mechanic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you greywolf. I had in mind that (if it is the ball bearing on the output shaft) it might have been a manufacturing fault or perhaps a design flaw in the new DL1000A engine. That's why I thought perhaps for longevity's sake, to rather change it to the tapered roller bearings. But, alas...I haven't seen any new DL1000A's with the same issue so it might have just been a faulty bearing. My Chain was as far as I know mostly to spec tightening, but an accidental over tighten might just have caused it as well from the Mechanics I bought it from.

But I will only be certain once the case has been opened, and then see what the cause of the issue is.

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That will indeed be the best practice, Thanks Bugzy. I will keep them separate if I do it myself. It would be an awesome project as well as a great learning curve...got the space, but with the advise from wingstrom, the case splitting (especially the gears) might just leave me in deeper problems. Luckily I got the gaskets and seals sorted.

With that as well, looking at the schematics, the engine case and the crank case does seem to be separate..the question though is that if I split the engine case...will it in turn also open the crank case? The reason for asking is perhaps to save my self some costs on the labor...if at all possible to take just the crank case to a mechanic and do the rest of the engine my self?

At this stage the Mac I'm taking it to said that if I just drop the engine and bring just the engine to him, it would save me a lot of money already so that seems to the most viable option at this stage wingstrom. Thank you. Will also mention to him to check if the shaft is still straight.

With the Warranty, I previously had a bike that was a blatant warranty issue and it was quite a nightmare to get it sorted, so with the being out of warranty, I highly doubt that they will be of any assistance..

Thanks for the info Guys, I will keep you in the loop on the progress.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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You have the crankcase containing the crank and transmission. Only the covers are separate.

 

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Are there any good used complete engines available ebay/breakers etc?
It will be quicker, easier and maybe even cheaper than stripping/repairing and rebuilding yours.

Just an alternative thought.
Good luck whichever path you choose.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Motor Rebuilt...But..

Fantastic, so the I stripped the motor, split the case, found and replaced the bearing that had been ripped to peaces and rebuilt to motor to spec from an online manual.....

All 100's!!

But.....Allas.... the scissor gear that goes onto the Crankshaft was tightened way to much as the torque wrench we used only had a one way setting that we found out only after the motor was rebuilt completely.

We started the bike, all ran smooth and was on my way to work. After work, started her up and heard a gear running to tightly and immidiatly knew that it was that gear....

Long story short, does any one know of a better way to un-tighten the scissor gear without the use of the special tool (Rotor Holder) or even have the Metric size (mm) wrench I can use to hold it in place for loosening that bolt?

It states it has to be at 160 nm and the stator bolt at 180nm....with the amount of force we used on that gear nut, I guess its roughly now at 200nm.....so I need a strong hold to keep the crank shaft from spinning....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fantastic, so the I stripped the motor, split the case, found and replaced the bearing that had been ripped to peaces and rebuilt to motor to spec from an online manual.....

All 100's!!

But.....Allas.... the scissor gear that goes onto the Crankshaft was tightened way to much as the torque wrench we used only had a one way setting that we found out only after the motor was rebuilt completely.

We started the bike, all ran smooth and was on my way to work. After work, started her up and heard a gear running to tightly and immidiatly knew that it was that gear....

Long story short, does any one know of a better way to un-tighten the scissor gear without the use of the special tool (Rotor Holder) or even have the Metric size (mm) wrench I can use to hold it in place for loosening that bolt?

It states it has to be at 160 nm and the stator bolt at 180nm....with the amount of force we used on that gear nut, I guess its roughly now at 200nm.....so I need a strong hold to keep the crank shaft from spinning....
Also, added on this, what could possibly have gone wrong if this gear was to tight for about 60 Miles (100 KM).
Never had the motor over 4000 RPM and the sound did go away after she warmed up a bit...

Would I need a new Gear? The threads on the Crankshaft still looks good but I have no Idea what could be any future problems if at all if there would be.
 

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Hi guys,

I'm new here, but this site was serving a lot of knowledge previously. I have DL650 2010 with ABS (orange body). Recently I've found that my chain is not equally tightened, but it is pretty new (1500km). I've checked the sprocket on drive shaft and... Shaft is bent a little (around 1mm radius in the end). Has anyone had similar issue? I've had chain tightened properly, not too tight, not too loose, I don't know how this could happen.. What is solution here? Can I try to straighten it on a bike or whole gearbox has to be stripped? Bike is working, no obvious symptoms, maybe a little pulsations, but could well be from engine. My mechanic said, that he would just ride like this and not to worry.
 

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I would worry that having that bit of vibration may cause the bearing to blow out eventually and leave you stranded someplace.

I can't think of any way to straighten it on the bike without damage to that bearing either, probably need to replace it at some point.
 

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How are you measuring the shaft runout? Did you remove the nut and front sprocket? If not, it may just be the sprocket.
 

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How are you measuring the shaft runout? Did you remove the nut and front sprocket? If not, it may just be the sprocket.
This is my thought also. The shaft is pretty large diameter and the stub coming out is short. I do not see how it could get bent. Are you sure the bearing is not fried? Will the shaft move in any radial direction?
 
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