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just came back from a 1500 mile trip over thanksgiving and my chain is all stretched, to adj. the tension have to have swingarm covering last etch mark to tighten chain. where do you get your chains and sprockets and any thoughts on brands or model #s? also is it hard to replace front and rear sprockets? bike is 03 1000 strom. 13K miles of which 5k are mine since i bought the bike. so dont know if orig equipment or not. thanks lots. bike does have a center stand. jet
 

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Wow, I can't believe no one has responded to you here. I've had my DL1k for less than a month so I may not be qualified to post an answer here. However, I can recommend Sprocket Specialist for ordering. Also, I'm a big fan of DID chains (btw, nothing but riveted!) and I run steel sprockets on all my bikes. I'm actually going to be changing the gearing on my DL shortly to have 6th gear be more useable. :p
 

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Suzuki OEM replacements are SunStar steel sprockets and DID chain, both of which are good quality. I ordered everything through Ronayers.com. You might also want to order the bend-over type lockwasher for the front sprocket while you're at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanx for the feedback folks. have steel sprockets and oring chain on order from local cycle shop. i had trouble muddling thru the myriad choices of chain types and spockets online so i let them look it up for me. i'll have more confidence next time. how difficult is replacing both sprockets? i also have haynes service manual on order. jet
 

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I've got an 03 1000 with 13K miles. The chain is showing little wear and I'm hoping to get up to 18K out of it.

I would like to change the gearing, thinking of going up on the rear sproket when I replace the chain.
 

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That's a good question - to anyone who has replaced the chain and both sprockets, is it doable for a shade-tree guy like me? I'm fairly capable -- I would tackle the valve adjust tb sync, tps adjustment myself. My last bike was shaft drive, and I don't have a chain breaker, whatever that is :)
 

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sasquatch said:
That's a good question - to anyone who has replaced the chain and both sprockets, is it doable for a shade-tree guy like me? I'm fairly capable -- I would tackle the valve adjust tb sync, tps adjustment myself. My last bike was shaft drive, and I don't have a chain breaker, whatever that is :)
Not too difficult. If you don't have a chain breaker, you can use a grinder or similar to cut the chain.

Master rivet links are a little tougher to do than a snap link, and you'll need a chain riviter for that.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorcycle-Cam-Chain-Breaker-Riveter-Cutter-Tool-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35600QQitemZ4596452611QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD7V
 

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What sort of miles does everyone get out of there chains and sprokets, I only have 7800 miles on my DL 650 so shouldnt have to worry about it for a while but am curious what the aveverage life is and if different chain lube optionsmake much differance to chain life :?
 

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Well, my experience has been limited with chains (only 2 chain driven bikes vs several shafties) but from what I've always been told, if you are good about replacing your chain when it starts to go, (don't drive it until it sounds like a chainsaw buzzing and jerking down the road) you save the wear on the sprockets and you can get 2 chain replacements before the sprockets need to be done.

The previous owner did a great job of chain maintenance (former dirt bike MotoX rider) and after 20k, the chain was just starting to go. The sprockets were great, so the recommendation was to just replace the chain. This is from my local race/performance shop, trust me they would try and sell me some upgraded sprockets if they thought they could!!

I just got a new EK QuadraX Xring chain. Killer chain. Man what a difference!! Silky smooth power all the way. I'm expecting to get at least another 15 or 18k out of it before doing all new sprockets and chain.

YMMV
 

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Just a word on chain tools. If you buy a chain breaker/riveter be sure to get a good quality one. I'd be sure to get one made by DID (the chain maker) or
Motion Pro or Cruz Tools. Park Tools makes great motorcycle tools also but I don't know if they make a chain tool yet. Be prepared to pay $150 or more for a decent tool. These can be used on cam chains to if you ever get into some deep engine work. One last thing, if the tool is called a cam chain breaker first, and mentions later it'll work on drive chains too, I would wager it's a very light duty tool and you might not want to spend your money on it.
Have fun with your chain and sprockets. For whatever it's worth, I've never replaced a chain without also changing sprockets too. These are matched components and are essential to proper driveline action. I might have wasted money doing this but always figured it was worthwhile.

Cheers!
 
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a bit late to the thread but here goes.
My original chain lasted 29,000km's on my 02 -1000
got tired of the silly high gearing (especially for BC where there really isn't much wide open road)

switched from 17/41 - stock to 16/45 - pretty radical, but what a difference in perfomance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! way better acceleration, way better in slow off road riding, minimal fuel econmy drop and still pulls over 200kph. 6th gear is now useful and the rough spot between 3 & 4k rpm is drastically improved.

wish I changed them sooner
 

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My bike only has 4000+ mi. on it so I havn't replaced the chain, but correct me if I'm wrong here. The stock chain is linkless right? The new chain is linkless right? Can't you just remove the rear wheel and take off the old chain? Why the need to break the chain to remove it? The new chain should have the correct number of links already, so why the need to rivet? Forgive me if I'm ignorant here. I've been replacing chains on dirt bikes with masterlinks for too many years I guess. :?
 

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jackpiner57 said:
My bike only has 4000+ mi. on it so I havn't replaced the chain, but correct me if I'm wrong here. The stock chain is linkless right? The new chain is linkless right? Can't you just remove the rear wheel and take off the old chain? Why the need to break the chain to remove it? The new chain should have the correct number of links already, so why the need to rivet? Forgive me if I'm ignorant here. I've been replacing chains on dirt bikes with masterlinks for too many years I guess. :?
You would have to pull the swingarm to get a one-piece chain on/off.
 

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I just installed a gold DID 525 VM2 on my Wee

While I have a MP chain breaker and chain press, I do not have a rivet tool. I used a ball peen hammer and used the head of a sledge as an anvil, not the easiest way to do it but it worked.
 

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Just ordered my second replacement chain for my 6fiddy at the 30,000 mile point. Bought the Regina Z-ring unit 'cause I've always had good luck with that brand on my dirt bikes. Renthal sprockets to go with it, stock gearing.
 
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vstrombc said:
a bit late to the thread but here goes.
My original chain lasted 29,000km's on my 02 -1000
got tired of the silly high gearing (especially for BC where there really isn't much wide open road)

switched from 17/41 - stock to 16/45 - pretty radical, but what a difference in perfomance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! way better acceleration, way better in slow off road riding, minimal fuel econmy drop and still pulls over 200kph. 6th gear is now useful and the rough spot between 3 & 4k rpm is drastically improved.

wish I changed them sooner
That rocks! 8) Exactly what I've been thinking of doing, albeit not that rad....probably just go with a 45 to make some real use outta six BEFORE I hit 80. The big question: How easy is it now to pull her up in the first two? :wink:
 
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