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Discussion Starter #1
Not a new guy here--been a member since 2010ish when I bought my used '09 Wee. 50K miles later, it is still THE go-to bike in my garage, whether I'm heading out for a day ride of blasting the back roads around the house or packing for a 5-21 day trip to TN/NC/GA mtns or out west to CO. Still brings a smile to my face everytime I throw a leg over it....but time races on and the winds of change are blowing.

Picking up a used '18 Wee XT this week. Haven't seen it "in person" yet but looks pretty nice from the pics. PO put a nice bash plate and engine guards on, some soft luggage and Shinko 804/805s. Which brings me to the questions that have prolly been asked/answered on this forum....but I'm a lazy bastard. So questions: 1) Has Suzuki "fixed" the headlight issue or should I plan on getting the EB relays for the lights? 2) Are the F/R suspension components similar to the Gen2 Wee, or are they (hopefully) 8-9 years better technology? 3) Is it still advisable to drop the forks 10-15 mm to eliminate head shake and increase stability at speed?

For reference, I installed the RT springs and Gold valves in the '09 forks and a DL1K rear shock for increased spring weight and 1/2" additional height. I'm still 210+ with gear and the Gen2 was too lightly sprung, so I'm presuming the new one is as well....unless the XT came with stiffer OEM suspension.

Thanks for the advice!

Bubba
 

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Driving a 2017 V-Strom 650 stock;

1) Has Suzuki "fixed" the headlight issue or should I plan on getting the EB relays for the lights?

Don't know what the issue is or was...my headlights are fine

2) Are the F/R suspension components similar to the Gen2 Wee, or are they (hopefully) 8-9 years better technology?

Don't know what the suspension was for Gen2Wee, but my suspension is just fine

3) Is it still advisable to drop the forks 10-15 mm to eliminate head shake and increase stability at speed?

Have no shakes @ speed so no need to drop the forks.

Best thing to do, drive you new bike and see for yourself. Ultimately its only you the driver who can decide what works.

Safe roads ahead, Stefan
 

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I can’t definitively answer your questions, so I’ll sit idly by as I’m sure there are folks here who can. I’m riding a ‘17 XT, and I love it.

What I want to know is why on earth someone buys a brand new Wee, outfits it with desirable accessories, and then promptly puts it up for sale.

Hi from right across the river, BTW.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Stefan: Thanks for the advice. I understand that comfortable riding is very much an individual preference.

RE: headlights....Suzuki used to run the wiring shunt thru the start switch on the handlebar. When you push the start button, it interrupts the current to the lights to minimize draw on the battery during starting. This current shunt eventually--time seemed to vary from a few thousand miles to maybe 15-25K miles--fries the contacts in the start switch. EB makes a nice set of relays that carries the headlight current so that only the relay current is shunted thru the switch. Wondered if Suzuki had changed the wire routing in the newer models.

RE: suspension....the K7-K11 Wees were relatively undersprung and under damped. Fine for a 150# rider, but not an old fat guy like me. I'm mainly interested in finding out if the XT model has an upgraded spring rate in the forks and shock, and if they've added any adjustability in the front.

RE: stability....Gen1 Wees were notoriously light in the front end at speeds approaching 95-100+ MPH due to the wind force under the chin fairing. Grey Wolf was nearly "terminated" by a high-speed tank slapper many years ago. The easy fix was to lower the fork tubes in the triple trees by 10-15 mm to lower the bike's attitude. Also helped a bit by making handling a bit more aggressive. Interested to see if Suzuki changed the chassis specs in the latest models.
 

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Scott: Good question. I don't know the reason, but the PO is selling the bike and all his gear, so maybe he's decided to stop riding.

I didn't ask too many questions....I'm not one to complain about saving a few thousand dollars over new!
 

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Scott: Good question. I don't know the reason, but the PO is selling the bike and all his gear, so maybe he's decided to stop riding.

I didn't ask too many questions....I'm not one to complain about saving a few thousand dollars over new!
Based on what I hear from folks who had Gen 2’s and “upgraded” to a Gen 3, I think you’ll love the bike.

I can definitively tell you that the front shocks are not adjustable.

And I *think* the headlight issue is somewhat mitigated by the Gen 3’s single headlight...not as much current involved, I guess. But don’t quote me on that.
 

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Scott: Just as an FYI, I ride across the river most of the time, since the state of KY seems to view their road system as an asset, vs OH where the state motto is "Pothole? What pothole?"

I'll keep you in the loop when the good riding weather gets here!

Ciao--Bubba
 

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Scott: Just as an FYI, I ride across the river most of the time, since the state of KY seems to view their road system as an asset, vs OH where the state motto is "Pothole? What pothole?"

I'll keep you in the loop when the good riding weather gets here!

Ciao--Bubba
Yeah, look me up. I’m always up for a ride, even if it’s just a quick run down to Rabbit Hash.

BTW, have you considered coming to the Eastern V-Strom rally?

https://www.stromtrooper.com/events/419921-2019-eastern-v-strom-rally-stecoah-nc-may-16-19-a.html
 

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Yes, you need the EB harness/relay

They did not change much on the suspension, so plan on re-build/upgrade( I had Daugherty do both front and rear on my '15....fantastic)

I do not know if the 17+ still gets head shake, but I never have dropped the forks since I want all the travel available.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, you need the EB harness/relay

They did not change much on the suspension, so plan on re-build/upgrade( I had Daugherty do both front and rear on my '15....fantastic)

I do not know if the 17+ still gets head shake, but I never have dropped the forks since I want all the travel available.
Thanks for the info. Sounds like I'll definitely be doing both upgrades in the near future. Guy did throw in a fork brace (uninstalled) so that'll help some.

With respect to the raised forks, it doesn't actually change the travel (that's set by the fork internals) but it does change the ground clearance a 'wee' bit as well as resulting in a minor change to rake/trail.
 

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Driving a 2017 V-Strom 650 stock;

1) Has Suzuki "fixed" the headlight issue or should I plan on getting the EB relays for the lights?

Don't know what the issue is or was...my headlights are fine

2) Are the F/R suspension components similar to the Gen2 Wee, or are they (hopefully) 8-9 years better technology?

Don't know what the suspension was for Gen2Wee, but my suspension is just fine

3) Is it still advisable to drop the forks 10-15 mm to eliminate head shake and increase stability at speed?

Have no shakes @ speed so no need to drop the forks.

Best thing to do, drive you new bike and see for yourself. Ultimately its only you the driver who can decide what works.


Safe roads ahead, Stefan
The 2 lower watt headlight bulbs won't draw the current as the previous, and EasternBeaver doesn't even "yet" make a relay kit for the new Stroms. They still have the damn headlights running through the starter switch, I recommend going with an LED bulb over the H4 anyways.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-high-beam-headlight-bulb/motorcycle-h9h11-led-fanless-headlight-conversion-kit-with-internal-driver-2000-lumens/3925/8560/?make=75&model=2367&scc_id=1941&year=2017

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-low-beam-headlight-bulb/motorcycle-h7-led-fanless-headlight-conversion-kit-with-compact-heat-sink-2000-lumens/3932/8568/?make=75&model=2367&scc_id=1943&year=2017

I have a single bulb system in my Honda Valkyrie, these are some of the best LED bulbs out there, and also don't require an attached fan.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I recommend going with an LED bulb over the H4 anyways.
I've read many threads on both MC and auto forums about replacing OEM halogens with LEDs. Many folks claim that the OEM reflector doesn't project a proper beam when used with LED bulbs and creates too much glare to oncoming traffic. True or not?
 

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Not true...my LED headlights throw a fantastic pattern. There are many different one's on the market, some are crap, some ...meh, and a few really good.
 

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I've read many threads on both MC and auto forums about replacing OEM halogens with LEDs. Many folks claim that the OEM reflector doesn't project a proper beam when used with LED bulbs and creates too much glare to oncoming traffic. True or not?
The key to getting the beam right when replacing the incandescent bulbs with LED modules is to have the LED chips [a] in the same place relative to the mounting flange as the filament was. Some LED manufacturers take care to do this, others don't. It is still appropriate to re-aim the headlights after the install.

[a. The "chip" is the small, rectangular, yellowish bump bonded to the heatsink metal which projects into where the bulb envelope was. ]

I can confirm the the effectiveness of the LED headlight replacement with regard to preserving the NC start switch contacts. Inrush current is more than 10x smaller with the LEDs, which reduces stress on the edge of the contact during initial closure by over 100x. I think the LEDs should be preferred for durability too, especially for a bike which is going to be ridden on gravel and dirt roads.
 

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LED's have come a long way. Many of the early ones made huge amounts of scatter as the LED element was so large. Todays seem so much smaller - similar in size to a filament. Much more effort has been put into their design and manufacture.

My first passively cooled LED's failed, possibly because of the Queensland heat as my headlights are permanently wired on. I replaced them with a fan type that have little or no scatter and they have lasted 4+ years so far. I also agree with Trepidators comment of less current through the problematic starter circuit.

An important consideration is the ability to get the rubber weather protector back on to seal the headlight. The best way is to look for a bulb where the filament sockets into the heatsink or fan. This means that you can fit the bulb into the reflector, replace the OEM weather seal, and then twist on the heatsink/fan and wiring. It is often difficult to find which bulbs do this. Look for exploded diagrams in the meat of the product description.

Another choice is color. The 7200K light frequency at which you are looking will have a definite shade of blue. Even the 6400K ones have a distinctive blue tint.

The one you linked to does not come with the necessary resistor. If you look to the bottom of the page they are shown there for $6.95. Many bulbs will come complete with a resistor. Pure plug'n'play.
 

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Does anyone know if there is thread somewhere detailing using these particular LED's on a '17 Wee? I'm wondering they're plug-and-play, or if modifications are required.
I love the simplicity of the fan-less ones above, but you can't fit the OEM weather cover over that big heat sink. Click *HERE* then *HERE* to see some relevant info I shared on the subject recently.
 
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