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Suzuki fork oil L-01. 569ml per leg. 120mm air gap
 

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I use ATF but have used 10w in the past.
 

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Is it an easy job to top it up? Have been looking for a workshop manual or info to do this job but no luck so far.
 

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It's easy if you don't have OCD and don't mind cheating. And much easier with a centre stand than without.

Take the weight off the back (bag of cement in the top box and tip the bike back works for me). Undo the two pinch bolts on the upper triple clamps, put a towel on the tank, take the handle bar clamps off but just lift, move back and rotate the bars back and lay them on the tank, a bungee cord to hold them still is a good idea. I use a hobby knife and slide it under those caps on the bolts, don't drop them they get lost easily.

Back the preload adjusters on the fork caps right off.

Use a GOOD socket set, undo the top fork caps. This is where the weight MUST be off the front.

Use something like a clean stick (chopstick, Satay stick) measure the existing oil level.
IF it smells like a swamp in there, you need to do more work, so put it back together now and read up on the proper way otherwise continue ...

Push the front of the bike back down, pull the spacer washer and springs out. (Paper towels and newspaper on the floor is useful here).

Use an oil transfer pump (hand pump and an empty plastic soda bottle works fine) pull out the oil you can get to. (This is where not having OCD helps).

Add SOME new oil at this point, enough so that when you rock the bike back you don't suck air below the damper.

Rock the bike back to unweight the front again, pop the springs, washers and spacers back in and using the magic stick plus a torch, top off the oil to the level you marked earlier.

Push the caps back on and VERY CAREFULLY tighten them. They will cross thread if you get careless but if you wound the preload off earlier only slight downward pressure is needed to get them back in. Adjust the preload to where it was, or in my case (~90kg) 'just touching' works.

Tighten the upper pinch bolts again, reinstall the bars. Done.

5 minutes the second time.

If you have OCD and want to do it properly, budget a day.

Pete
 

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Does anyone know what oil to use front suspension, and the amount of oil.
Are you changing the oil to tune the suspension? Or age/use? One final question, we are talking about a 2014+ DL1000?
 

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Looking in the manual, you need some "special tools" for the job. They are for compressing the spring and allowing the removal of the damper adjustment rod from the fork cap.
If it were me, to get the oil replaced I would remove the forks and take them to a shop with the right equipment.
Not a straightforward as my old DL650!
 

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If you're changing the oil and not using the Suzuki product, find the comparison chart on the net. Fork oil is measured in Centistokes ( I think that's the term, from memory ) so, a 10w Motul fork oil won't be the same as, say, a 10w BelRay fork oil. You have to weigh up the cost of a workshop manual against the cost of using a mechanic. If you have some basic mechanical nous, the manual will save you lots of dollars in the long run. As for the the "special tools", Suzuki wanted to charge me $140 for a SPST switch with two wires, I made my own for $12......
 

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0W grade, 1L:99000-99044-L01
5W grade, 0,5L:99000-99044-05G
10W grade, 1L:99000-99044-10G
15W grade, 1L:99000-99044-15G

I am running Hyperpro progressive front springs with Hyperpro SAE10W fluid. It appears to help with the front end dive during high speed heavy breaking on asphalt while setting up for corners. Still a lot of dive for superbike but just right for a long travel adventure bike.
Crap Video: suspension work
https://youtu.be/vNqnNU25aj0
 

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Working on the inverted forks on the DL1000A is a bigger job than on the regular forks on the other stroms. I think it require special tools. You might check with a local shop good at this work.
 

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It's easy if you don't have OCD and don't mind cheating. And much easier with a centre stand than without.

Take the weight off the back (bag of cement in the top box and tip the bike back works for me). Undo the two pinch bolts on the upper triple clamps, put a towel on the tank, take the handle bar clamps off but just lift, move back and rotate the bars back and lay them on the tank, a bungee cord to hold them still is a good idea. I use a hobby knife and slide it under those caps on the bolts, don't drop them they get lost easily.

Back the preload adjusters on the fork caps right off.

Use a GOOD socket set, undo the top fork caps. This is where the weight MUST be off the front
.

Use something like a clean stick (chopstick, Satay stick) measure the existing oil level.
IF it smells like a swamp in there, you need to do more work, so put it back together now and read up on the proper way otherwise continue ...


Push the front of the bike back down, pull the spacer washer and springs out. (Paper towels and newspaper on the floor is useful here).

Use an oil transfer pump (hand pump and an empty plastic soda bottle works fine) pull out the oil you can get to. (This is where not having OCD helps).

Add SOME new oil at this point, enough so that when you rock the bike back you don't suck air below the damper.

Rock the bike back to unweight the front again, pop the springs, washers and spacers back in and using the magic stick plus a torch, top off the oil to the level you marked earlier.

Push the caps back on and VERY CAREFULLY tighten them. They will cross thread if you get careless but if you wound the preload off earlier only slight downward pressure is needed to get them back in. Adjust the preload to where it was, or in my case (~90kg) 'just touching' works.

Tighten the upper pinch bolts again, reinstall the bars. Done.

5 minutes the second time.

If you have OCD and want to do it properly, budget a day.

Pete
Just to confirm, this is for 2014 on inverted forks?
 

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Does anyone know what oil to use front suspension, and the amount of oil.
Can I be rude enough to ask a little more info as this is a question that should be more inclusive... that is for a fair and reasonable answer to be given by a forum of possibly technically correct individuals.

Advice is what you would prefer that is somewhere median to sound and excellent i would assume. Then individuals with this knowledge would ask about..

Bike miles
Type of riding in that period i.e. town, back road, dirt road, bush off road
rider personal preference set up, expertise, preferred pace for this bike, luggage etc etc
personal suspension knowledge re. maintenance, tools.

Bit very broad question. But if its asked in a forum then expect some greatly varied opinion which is going to be like choosing your most comforting answer over best advice if you haven't been specific in the asking...
 

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Just to confirm, this is for 2014 on inverted forks?
No, and my apologies, DL 650. Inverted forks are an absolute bastard. It's similar in some ways, but it's a serious PITA because you usually have to push the spring back and have a tool to unclip the dampers. I don't think there's even enough room to run small bore hose down the inside with the springs still in on those.

Peter
 
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