StromTrooper banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Which way does this thing go on, with the flat part against; a) the bolt head, or b) the crankcase? I'm having a bit of a headache with my oil change now and I think it's because last time I put the bloody washer on backwards -- part of it got drawn up into the bolt hole.
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,048 Posts
The flat part goes against the crankcase. I got wrong info about it before so remember it well now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for confirming my thinking, Greywolf. Yes, that would be the exact opposite of what I did last time. Gah!
 
1

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Yep, Pat gives good advice!!!

Funny thing about that crush washer...it's installed the exact opposite way one would think it should be installed...due to the "recession" is the bottom of the engine...but that's the way it is...

BTD.
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,048 Posts
Are you guys 100% sure? I changed my oil the other day, already had the dealer do the 600 mile service(LOL), and the flat side of the washer was against the bolt head??? Cheers-BB
The problem is, if you place the curved part up, it can get into the interface between the sump and the screw and get torn. Neither the service manual nor the user manual mention the washer. This thread is just one more indication that putting the non flat side against the sump can cause a problem. It is a rare problem though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,104 Posts
I agree with you, just either Suzuki or the Suzuki service tech didn't know this, I haven't changed the washer myself yet (only the 2nd oil change), but when I do I'll probably go buy a alum crush washer and not have to worry about it. Cheers-BB
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,048 Posts
The crush washer disappears into the bolt head. Take a knife to the area and you'll find it. My bike has been through about a dozen changes on the original washer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
I changed my oil twice and never noticed a washer when I took the oil drain bolt off. Does it usually stick with the bolt or stick to the case? I've got an 07 Wee. Doesn't leak any oil.
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,048 Posts
It sticks to the bolt. It's almost invisible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Incidentally, I've seen several issues on Suzuki DRZs (and they probably exist with other bikes) related to not replacing your crush washer. Broken engine cases from overtightening is the worst of it, but also we had a guy lose the drain bolt and his engine siezed up earlier this year. I stocked up on them after he had to be towed and trailered out of the woods.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
710 Posts
Well I'm glad someone brought this up. I was wondering why the dealer sold me a crush washer as part of an oil/filter change kit.

Guess I'll replace it next time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,275 Posts
Incidentally, I've seen several issues on Suzuki DRZs (and they probably exist with other bikes) related to not replacing your crush washer. Broken engine cases from overtightening is the worst of it, but also we had a guy lose the drain bolt and his engine siezed up earlier this year. I stocked up on them after he had to be towed and trailered out of the woods.
I call partial baloney. ;-) A crush washer is a single-use gasket, not a "torque limiter" or a lock washer. It is intended to improve the seal between the bolt and the case. Its absence or dysfunction might cause a leak, but will not "cause" you to overtighten the drain bolt, nor will it cause the bolt to spin off. However, one might be tempted to overtighten the bolt to compensate for the poor seal that may result from reusing crush washers, and that may well ruin your day.

As to the direction of installation, that was a new one to me. I thought it went convex-side up, which probably explains why a sliver of it always gets shaved off and stuck to the magnet. Annoyingly, the service manual never mentions it at all. Where's the documentation about its proper orientation?
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,048 Posts
As to the direction of installation, that was a new one to me. I thought it went convex-side up, which probably explains why a sliver of it always gets shaved off and stuck to the magnet. Annoyingly, the service manual never mentions it at all. Where's the documentation about its proper orientation?
I haven't seen any. All I'm sure of is convex side up sometimes causes problems. Convex side down does not and still seals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
I call partial baloney. ;-) A crush washer is a single-use gasket, not a "torque limiter" or a lock washer. It is intended to improve the seal between the bolt and the case. Its absence or dysfunction might cause a leak, but will not "cause" you to overtighten the drain bolt, nor will it cause the bolt to spin off. However, one might be tempted to overtighten the bolt to compensate for the poor seal that may result from reusing crush washers, and that may well ruin your day.

As to the direction of installation, that was a new one to me. I thought it went convex-side up, which probably explains why a sliver of it always gets shaved off and stuck to the magnet. Annoyingly, the service manual never mentions it at all. Where's the documentation about its proper orientation?
Fortunately I was able to Google it up:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-558178.html
Check out the pictures!
Fortunately I'm pretty sure the Strom uses a different type of washer which doesn't need replacing in the same way as the DRZ's deforming aluminum washer.
Also I'd wager the engine block is sturdier (weight reduction comes with a price!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Crush washers were $ 6.00 for 6 at my local dealer. I install them the same way the first one was installed. Curved side towards the bolt head. I just matched the original washer I took off.

I use a new washer every three oil changes. By that time they are pretty flat and it is before they show any wear. This is was I used to do with the 1/2 copper washers on my older bikes. As soon as they showed any scratches or crushed areas I replaced them. Three times seems pretty save for me but at a $ 1.00 each from the stealer or for 1/2 copper drain washers at Napa for $ 0.40 they really could be changed every time.

At the 600 which I had the stealer do, they did not change the washer.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
59 Posts
Crush washers

I have been watching this thread unfold and I want to add a couple of things. I am a Journeyman Machinist tool maker, I have performed this trade since 1978 and I have worked with aluminum in every type of application possible. The secret to crush washers is not the washer it is the torque. The washers generally come from the producer .080 to .100 of an inch thick and their purpose is not to create a seal,that is secondary. The primary reason for the crush washer is to prevent the steel drain plug from scaring and damaging the softer aluminum surface of the crankcase drain hole. If there were no crush washer, torqueing the plug would eventually bore all of the way through the crank case. Don't get me wrong the seal of the crush washer is important but without it, the amount of oil that would leak out would not be noticable between oil changes, other than maybe a weep line aroung the plug in the road dirt. Just my 2 cents worth
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
My dealer suggested using a solid washer instead of the OEM crush washer. I believe the solid washer he sold me is aluminum. I've reused it several times and it seals perfectly. I torque it to the value in the service manual, 15 ft-lbs. I'll inspect it for deformation or scratches at each oil change and just keep using it until it shows some damage.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top