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I changed my oil and filterfor the first time the day before yesterday. I started it up after adding to the fill line, and then shut it off. I waited a few minutes and then added oil again up to the fill line, eveything is good, right? I drove it to work yesterday, and I checked the oil level again a couple of hours after I got home, it was above the fill line! So I take some oil out, down to the fill line again. The next day, after work, same procedure, high again! WHat gives? All this was checked on the center stand.:confused:
 

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From what I've been told, it's better to balance the bike to check the oil... the center stand might keep it at a slight side-ways angle and give you a false reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How can I balance the bike without being on it, and still see the glass? The bike looks perfectly straight up and down, and besides, that doesn't explain why it keeps rising. Weird
 

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These bikes are light. Stand on the right side (throttle side). Grasp the luggage rack rail and the throttle. Lift the bike up. Squat down holding the luggage rack rail. Oil sight glass is clearly visible. The more you do this, the easier it will be. Be assured... once 'up' the bike is VERY easy to balance with one hand. Takes little to no effort.
 

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If I am correct, the manual calls for 2.9 quarts of oil. I overfill by 0.1 quarts, because I put in 3 full quarts on every change.

I wouldn't experiment with the "fill glass level" on the initial change, thinking that it was accurate. I simply look at the glass, prior to every start-up to make sure she simply has some lube in the case.

I change every 3k miles and so far, have not noticed any lose of oil in that amount of mileage, even with a lot of 75mph riding on the interstate.
 

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Sounds like you filled it and did not let the oil settel back down before you topped it off. When I had a center stand I always checked my oil this way also. For the record, I also just use 3 Qts. Butif I were you, let the bike sit over night on the center stand. Then drain the oil down to the full mark. All should be good.
 

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From what I've been told, it's better to balance the bike to check the oil... the center stand might keep it at a slight side-ways angle and give you a false reading.
As long as you check it with the bike parked in the same spot / direction every time, it wouldn't matter. I use the centerstand. It is scads easier and if there is a slight "angle" it won't be significant enough to matter, and if you duplicate the same angle every time you check you will still get an accurate check and be able to determine oil usage.

Procedure (with a new filter installed as opposed to using the old one): after draining the oil, add oil until it is just below the top of the fill window. There should be the tiniest of "bubbles" at the top of the window. Start the engine, let it run for 3 minutes or so (ignore the oil light that comes on for the first 10 seconds), then shut it off. Go away and get on Stromtrooper for an hour or so. Return to the bike, add oil to 2/3 full in the window (shouldn't have to add much). Done.
 

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I have had good luck with putting a standard paving brick under the kick stand. It keeps the bike steady and pretty much upright so I can check the oil with concern of it tipping. Of course the bike needs to on level ground to begin with, I do it in my garage. Best of luck. I think the manual says to wait 3 minutes after turning the engine off before checking the level to give the oil time to drain out of the engine. Keep in mind that the 3 minutes is based on a warmed up engine, not cold.
 

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All advice given has been great, I also do all my maint while on centerstand. When I change the oil/filter I let it drain until I have no drips "at all", then I refill with 2.9 quarts like specified. My level is always spot on and never changes, and I have no visible oil loss between intervals. Always better to be between the fill lines than above, so I would rather fill with a little less then specified, and then add accordingly.
 

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I started it up after adding to the fill line, and then shut it off. I waited a few minutes and then added oil again up to the fill line, eveything is good, right?

Wrong, wrong, wrong.

Never ever fill a bike by simply adding oil until you get to the fill line. That will cause you to overfill the bike as you have discovered and will cause you to over pressurise your sump and blow gaskets and seals.
Use this as a learning experience and before you do your next oil change buy a measuring device and add the correct MEASURED amount of oil to the engine after you have first ensured that all the old oil has completely drained.
 

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It takes time for all the oil to drain into the sump. After starting and running for a little while to fill the filter and passages, shut it off and wait a couple of hours. Only then can you add to the full line.
 

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Wrong, wrong, wrong.

Never ever fill a bike by simply adding oil until you get to the fill line. That will cause you to overfill the bike as you have discovered and will cause you to over pressurise your sump and blow gaskets and seals.
Use this as a learning experience and before you do your next oil change buy a measuring device and add the correct MEASURED amount of oil to the engine after you have first ensured that all the old oil has completely drained.
I have never in my life measured the oil I've put into anything when changing oil. I simply warm the bike up, drain the oil for maybe 5 minutes (my patience is limited), replace the filter (only necessary every second change) and add oil to the fill line, then start it up. Then I let it sit overnight and check it again (still on the centrestand) to see what the oil level is, which is usually a little below the fill line, and top up if necessary.

Worth noting that hot oil will also read higher than cold oil - it expands when warm.
 

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I drain it on the sidestand first. Then I get the rest of the oil out by holding it by the left grip and letting the bike lean to the right as far as I can without it going over for about ten seconds. (Make sure you have good footing) This lets the oil in the head go to the oil returns on the right side. Then, I let it go back onto the sidestand. It is amazing how much more oil comes out. I do this about 5 times or until the flow is minimal when it goes back to the sidestand. OK, so I'm anal.

And of course I use Eddie's Really Good Oil, for about 12 more horsepower, better gas mileage and a higher CentiStoke reading at 212 degrees!
 

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All you need to remember is when changing oil like you always do (and I do) just leave the oil level a little short until after you do your first ride. The SV's and Wee's all tend to look like they are gaining oil, it's just because all the oil doesn't drain into the sump real well until it gets good and hot on you first run.
 

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I find it much easier and cleaner just to pay someone to service my bike, then I can bond with my bike the way it was meant to be bonded with, with my right hand

a few oz of oil one way or the tother isn't going to make a hill of beans difference. .1 quart extra is not going to make seals leak or blow, nor is it going to make it blow up from lack of lubrication

if you wanna be anal, have at it



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a few oz of oil one way or the tother isn't going to make a hill of beans difference. .1 quart extra is not going to make seals leak or blow, nor is it going to make it blow up from lack of lubrication

if you wanna be anal, have at it
Even I change my own oil, it's not rocket science.

BTW, it just so happens that .03333333333333 quarts happen to stick to the inside of the average oil can.
 

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These bikes are light. Stand on the right side (throttle side). Grasp the luggage rack rail and the throttle. Lift the bike up. Squat down holding the luggage rack rail. Oil sight glass is clearly visible. The more you do this, the easier it will be. Be assured... once 'up' the bike is VERY easy to balance with one hand. Takes little to no effort.

+1 I don't trust center stands or rear wheel stands for oil checks. I just squat next to the bike grab my HB crash bars and my Caribou rack and balance the bike. With this method you can check the oil accurately even on an incline.
 

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I have the answer...

Got it!

You've been adding oil when the bike is cold. As the bike heats up, the oil is absorbed by the metal in the engine.

When the engine cools down, the metal can't hold the oil anymore and it leaches back into the case.

Sheesh, anyone knows that!

:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for all the great responses. I did put the oi level up when the oil was cold, so maybe it IS expanding! Anyway, no oil leaks, always a good thing....
 
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