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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone happen to know what oil filter this bike takes? I am due for a change and would rather not buy a Suzuki filter $$$$$$$.
 

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Typically, OEM oil filters are reasonably priced, considering they are built to a very high standard.

The DL1000A maintenance schedule calls for oil filter replacement every 18,000 km, with the exception of the first change at the 1,000 km mark. Oil changes are recommended every 6,000 km.

For me, the cost of a Suzuki OEM filter is a small price to pay to maintain this fine piece of machinery.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you never gave me the filter number. I personally don't believe brand name filters such as Suzuki and Yamaha are any better than say a good fram filter.
Fram for instance runs a company based on manufacturing filters, they should be more than able to manufacture a top notch filter.

On a side note, how much oil have you guys burnt on your first few hundred km?
I am surprised at how much mine has burnt, I was well below the low line after only 200 km?
 

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Fram is owned by the Rank Group of New Zealand. Their cheapest are pretty junky. Their better ones are good, but overpriced compared to others. WIX are good. So is Hiflo HF138. No, oil filters are not all the same. A defective oil filter will ruin an engine...not common but possible. I'd rather save a coupl'a dollars on something with a less costly downside.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Who is to say that these brand name filters are even made by the company's they endorse? They could very well be outsourcing companies such as fram to make the filters for them.

Besides Canadian tire has waaayyyy better hours then my local dealer, some of us work a 9-5 these days (dealer closes at 5).
 

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On a side note, how much oil have you guys burnt on your first few hundred km?
I am surprised at how much mine has burnt, I was well below the low line after only 200 km?
At 400 miles (not km) I haven't burned any that I can see, I'm still at the full mark. As another member here pointed out, are you checking with the bike on the sidestand or while holding the bike straight up and down?
 

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I am not aware that breaking in a new engine will burn oil. I did not find this with my '11 Wee during the breaking in process. I will be riding my Vee2 this week, and keep an eye on the oil level.

BTW, is anyone changing the oil after the first 50-100 miles or so? I have been reading articles on breaking in engines, and there is much controversy. Some say that in spite of the excellent manufacturing process, there is still small metal pieces that accumulate in the oil filter. In addition, I have read that
we should stay in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear, speeding up to 65 m.p.h. with abrupt slowing down for the first 1-200 miles to properly break in the engine. That makes the most sense to me after my reading of different opinions. Any thoughts?
 

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the only bike I ever had that burned oil (out of at least 30) was my HD xr1200. I bought it new and it used a couple of quarts in the first couple thousand miles and then just quit using it. Common for that engine apparently.
 

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...In addition, I have read that
we should stay in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear, speeding up to 65 m.p.h. with abrupt slowing down for the first 1-200 miles to properly break in the engine. That makes the most sense to me after my reading of different opinions. Any thoughts?
That sounds like the infamous "MotoMan" break-in procedure. While some people swear to it, I'll only consider it once "MotoMan" starts providing warranty on the engine. Until then, the break-in procedure per the engineers who actually designed and developed the bike is credible enough for me. The manual does say to not hold a constant speed, but to vary engine speed and that's what I also observe on my new vehicles as well. Drives people around you on the freeway a little crazy as you are always continuously gradually accelerating and decelerating but, oh well...
 

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Stoopy,
You are correct, and nailed my reading of MotoMan and some "other guy".
I do like to keep to O.E.M. filters and replacement parts, so I should stick with Suzuki's engine break in directions.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
At 400 miles (not km) I haven't burned any that I can see, I'm still at the full mark. As another member here pointed out, are you checking with the bike on the sidestand or while holding the bike straight up and down?
Yes I am holding it straight up and down.

On another note, back to the topic. Anyone have a oil filter part number?
 

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Who is to say that these brand name filters are even made by the company's they endorse? They could very well be outsourcing companies such as fram to make the filters for them.

Besides Canadian tire has waaayyyy better hours then my local dealer, some of us work a 9-5 these days (dealer closes at 5).
We did some extensive research when we bought a new Subaru. Things get interesting when you see the internal construction of various filters.

WalMart sells the regular Purolator filter (Pure Oil Later - really!), which gets high marks. Napa gold is also highly rated. Fram, not so much.
 

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Does anyone happen to know what oil filter this bike takes? I am due for a change and would rather not buy a Suzuki filter $$$$$$$.
Don't know which filter you're looking for, if not the OEM. I use K&N (which is the same as Hiflo). Very happy with it. Part #KN-138.
 

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The photo I posted above is my new '14. It's the same filter as the stock filter on my '07 Bandit. I ran the KN138's for 30,000 miles on the Bandit and it worked perfect. The thread pitch is slightly different on the K&N but there were "zero " fitment issues, or gaulding, or anything. I'll run the 138 on the VStrom 'cause I mainly like the built-on nut on the casing. Plus, it's a good filter.

Better than the stock filter? Who knows - that's the stuff of long exhausting semi-ridiculous threads, but I do like that built-on nut.

Stock filter - $11
KN138 $14


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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oil filters
AMSOil SMF 109
Baldwin B7419
Bike Master 314-0025
Champion PH7016
Cycle Power 314-1919
Emgo 10-55662
Emgo 10-55660
Fram PH6018
Hi-Flo HF138 <-- Recommended
J.C.Whitney ZX063166P
K&N 138 <-- Recommended
NAPA Gold 1359 (at UAP/NAPA) <-- Recommended
WIX 51359 (at UAP/NAPA) <-- Recommended
Parts Unlimited
Per-Form J-509
ProPart 01-0029
Purolator ML16818 <-- Recommended
STP SMO-18
Suzuki 16510-03G00-X07 or 16510-07J00 <-- Recommended
VESRAH vsf-3009

Recommended means John Weldon at VSRI cut it apart and liked what he saw. He has not checked all makes.
 

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I use the K&N 138. It's the only filter available locally and it's kept in stock at Autozone. The closest Suzuki dealership is 100 miles away, and the shipping from online retailers is normally $6-7... So paying $15.99 for the filter every 5000 miles isn't bad for me (and after five $20 purchases I get $20 back at AutoZone). I have been using Valvoline 10W-40 oil, but will be trying Rotella T6 this summer.
 

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Fram filters are junk IMHO I always use Wix. They are recommended by more high performance engine builders than any other filter. Go to their website and look it up for the new bike.
 
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