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Do you have a way to measure that thread pitch?

From the photo, those look like MUCH courser threads.

And yeah, this is just a completely stupid mod. Suzuki oil filters are not the least bit hard to find. I've never figured out why these adaptors were mildy popular for a while.

Hell, you can go into any Walmart at 2am and grab a Fram PH6018. Not the greatest filter on the planet, but it will work. And any Napa will have the correct filter in stock.
 
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Discussion Starter #23
I just looked at the 51064 that you bought that you said didn't even begin to thread on, but it has the 20 x 1.5 pitch that the one you took off supposedly has. What a $hit show this oil change turned out to be... Might be time to start from scratch and buy either a new threaded adapter from Suzuki or one of the conversion ones. At least the threads will be un-screwed-with by prior owners.
I just looked at the 51064 that you bought that you said didn't even begin to thread on, but it has the 20 x 1.5 pitch that the one you took off supposedly has. What a $hit show this oil change turned out to be... Might be time to start from scratch and buy either a new threaded adapter from Suzuki or one of the conversion ones. At least the threads will be un-screwed-with by prior owners.
Ok, wow. I’ll look into that.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Do you have a way to measure that thread pitch?

From the photo, those look like MUCH courser threads.

And yeah, this is just a completely stupid mod. Suzuki oil filters are not the least bit hard to find. I've never figured out why these adaptors were mildy popular for a while.

Hell, you can go into any Walmart at 2am and grab a Fram PH6018. Not the greatest filter on the planet, but it will work. And any Napa will have the correct filter in stock.
I have a caliper and will try to measure it tomorrow. I bought the bike from the second owner and have already taken off a couple of stupid mods he did. This appears to be another.
 

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Hmmm... found this page, which offers another avenue for exploration. This bozo was looking for an alternative to the Bales adaptor (which you do not have; the Bales and CalSci adaptors have a large hex at the base):

Scroll down a bit at the link above to a user named 1100G and "Edit #2 SOLVED", and you'll see that he installed a "Trans-Dapt" Oil Filter Nipple that looks exactly like what your bike is wearing:

It's a 3/4"-16 thread, and the Wix filter is 51395. Which cross-references to a filter for an older Toyota Corolla, one of the most common filters on the planet. A Walmart Supertech ST4967 would be less than three bucks and a cheap way to find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Hmmm... found this page, which offers another avenue for exploration. This bozo was looking for an alternative to the Bales adaptor (which you do not have; the Bales and CalSci adaptors have a large hex at the base):

Scroll down a bit at the link above to a user named 1100G and "Edit #2 SOLVED", and you'll see that he installed a "Trans-Dapt" Oil Filter Nipple that looks exactly like what your bike is wearing:
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It's a 3/4"-16 thread, and the Wix filter is 51395. Which cross-references to a filter for an older Toyota Corolla, one of the most common filters on the planet. A Walmart Supertech ST4967 would be less than three bucks and a cheap way to find out.
That DOES look just like it. You may have just solved this mystery, thank you! If this is the case, I’ll have to decide between the Calsci adapter or OEM. I can’t leave this pos as is.
 

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I read that link and had to laugh. Suzuki uses a non-metric thread cut into their engine block? And then uses an adapter to make it metric? I guess that is just another thing that I don't understand, but it's good to know. I'm glad nobody bet me on that one; I'd have lost.
 

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That DOES look just like it. You may have just solved this mystery, thank you! If this is the case, I’ll have to decide between the Calsci adapter or OEM. I can’t leave this pos as is.
If you do try to change it out for something else, be super careful about loosening it without damaging the threads in the engine case on the other end. You said in an earlier post that it looked to you like there was/is Red Loctite showing at the bottom of the adapter (referencing the picture in your first post), in which case you may need to get the adapter pretty hot to release that Loctite. If you find a replacement filter that works, it might be easier to simply go with that one, unless you just want to get back to stock (which, if you do, I can understand).
 

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Discussion Starter #31
If you do try to change it out for something else, be super careful about loosening it without damaging the threads in the engine case on the other end. You said in an earlier post that it looked to you like there was/is Red Loctite showing at the bottom of the adapter (referencing the picture in your first post), in which case you may need to get the adapter pretty hot to release that Loctite. If you find a replacement filter that works, it might be easier to simply go with that one, unless you just want to get back to stock (which, if you do, I can understand).
You bring up a valid point, thanks. Let well enough alone.
 

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At this point, find a filter that fits, and stick with it, unless it starts to leak or fail somehow. Anything else is just going to turn out really badly.
 

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You may want to take the old filter that fits perfectly to any hardware store that has a fitment board. Similar to the one pictured below. Then try the various fitments until you find the one that works. That would at least give you an accurate thread size.
281441
 
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I've never seen a hardware store fitment board large enough to answer the question. The picture you posted definitely doesn't.
Try an auto supply house. :cool:
 

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It looks like you have about 10 threads on that adapter. If you want to know the thread pitch, those 10 threads should give you enough precision to measure it with a normal ruler.

So put a ruler of some sort, preferably with a millimeter scale, next to it, and take a high-quality picture, directly perpendicular. Zoom in on that picture, count 10 pitches (11 threads), measure the distance, divide by 10, and you should get the thread pitch. It will be a multiple of 0.25, so for instance 1.00, 1.25, 1.50, 1.75, ...

(Unless, of course, if bwringer is right and you've got an imperial adapter on there. The same principle would apply but a ruler measuring in inches would probably be more practical.)

Alternatively, if you have a bin of big-size standard-pitch metric (or imperial) bolts and you know (from their diameter) what their thread pitch is, you can see if your adapter has the same pitch by simply laying the bolt alongside the adapter. If the threads line up, at least they've got the same pitch.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Update......SOLVED! But not happily. So I tried the 3/4"-16 from Walmart and it was a no go. I brought up the picture I posted earlier of the Carlube box and and saw Walmart had the Fram PH6607. Already tried the Wix 51064 M20-1.50 that was referenced on the box, which wouldn't even begin to screw on. So I bought the Fram even though it was a 20-1.50.....and it screwed right on. Right, now why the Wix 1.5 wouldn't work and the Fram does is anyones guess. I'm not happy about using Fram, but grateful the nightmare is over for now.
Without going into much detail, since I got the bike a few months ago, it's been one thing after another, (fuel pump, rotor magnets, stalling) and I've spent more time working on it than riding. It fits me so well, but I'm thinking about giving up on it, as this little episode may have just pushed me over the edge. Or maybe I'll cool off in a day or two.

Thank you everyone for your help!!
 
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