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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just did the first oil change on the DL1000. Used a Fram PH6018.

The filter cost more than the oil. This I find to be very unacceptable. Any suggestions? Also, looking for creative suggestions other than GIVI. I've seen pictures of "boxes" by Rubbermain on the back of a few bikes. Not bad looking but would like a means of quickly disconnecting from the bike.

Shoot suggestions my way.

Thanks.
 

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Just did the first oil change on the DL1000. Used a Fram PH6018.

The filter cost more than the oil. This I find to be very unacceptable. Any suggestions? Also, looking for creative suggestions other than GIVI. I've seen pictures of "boxes" by Rubbermain on the back of a few bikes. Not bad looking but would like a means of quickly disconnecting from the bike.

Shoot suggestions my way.

Thanks.
These fit my DL650 and seem to be fine. Cheaper than Wal-mart, too.

Purolator ML16818

Rubbermaid Action Packer - Sold in the automotive section at Wal-mart. Secures through the handles with a bungy cord. Mine cost $16 with bungy and tax included. It is black with a grey lid and red handles.
 

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Also, looking for creative suggestions other than GIVI. I've seen pictures of "boxes" by Rubbermain on the back of a few bikes. Not bad looking but would like a means of quickly disconnecting from the bike.

Shoot suggestions my way.

Thanks.
Try the J. C. Whitney top box. Myself and others have had good luck with them. They are also on E-Bay cheaper.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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38,103 Posts
oil filters
* AMSOil SMF 109
* Bike Master 314-0025
* Champion PH7016
* Cycle Power 314-1919
* Emgo 10-55662
* Emgo 10-55660
* Fram PH6018
* Hi-Flo HF138
* J.C.Whitney ZX063166P
* K&N 138
* NAPA 1359 / WIX 51359
* Per-Form J-509
* ProPart 01-0029
* Purolator ML16818
* STP SMO-18
* Suzuki 16510-03G00-X07
* VESRAH vsf-3009
 

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If you spent more money on a Fram filter than the oil, then you made 2 mistakes: First, buying a junk Fram filter period, and second, using cheap oil. There are acceptable ways of easing the cost of riding, however, using crap filters, oil and gas are not any of them in my book.
Motorcycles are inherently hard on their oil, especially since it is used for engine AND transmission lubrication, where cars do not. The transmission shears and tears the oil molecules apart. Fram makes its own filters, and the filters of many other manufacturers sold under many names. The innards are cardboard and glue usually=JUNK. Stick with the Suzuki filters, or Amsoil, or a Purolator Pure One or Mobil 1. Buy online and in bulk to ease the cost. Use synthetic or semi sythetic oil (at the very least) designed for motorcycles specifically, with no friction modifiers, do not use oils that are labeled "energy conserving". Try using a quality synthetic oil (I like Maxima Extra, a true 100% ester synthetic) and you will probably like how your bike shifts better too. The rumor than synthetic oil causes clutch slippage is just that, pure BS, thats not how synthetic oil works.
Do some research on oil, and filters, you will understand what I'm talking about.
Heres a good start, from a pretty smart guy:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html#OilFilters
 

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Here is a fine start to another oil and filter thread!


I recommend Shell Rotella Oil. Both the 15W-40 conventional and the 5W-40 Synthetic are good options for the VStrom and can be found at Walmart.
The conventional is about $9 a gallon and the synthetic is about $16 for the big jug. For that price it does not hurt to do the recommended interval oil change or even a bit more often.
 
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LOL! If you want a cheap top box, go with the original...A Milk Crate! classic lines and good aerodynamics from all the holes. And the price is right in your range, free. :mrgreen:
 

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Oh crap....here we go again!!!!!!!:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
To NMINUS1

First of all let me say that I could have provided you with the same site references, as well as quite a few others, regarding the inherent need for quality oil and filters. Nuff' said on that.

I asked for a cross reference to the Fram filter, because I am certainly aware of the exclaimed limitations of Fram. I did so because I desired to get away from Fram not stay with them, hence, the need for the "cross reference". Keep in mind that a single usage, because it was the only one available, does not act as an endorsement.

The oil was changed at 53 miles. Subsequent to this change will come one at 250 miles. I think I can say with confidence that Castrol GTX will handle this very brief distance with no consequence from shearing. To utilize a "pricey" oil would be silly for this short duration. GTX will provide admirable service and then act as a "flushing agent". Anything much more elaborate than this would indeed be "flushing money down the porcelain convenience".

To put your heart at rest please know that I do indeed run a quality synthetic oil as well as a high quality filter, when I can find one. Again, that was my reason for asking for the cross reference in the first place. I do appreciate your willingness to come to my "rescue" regarding a perceived "oil ignorance", but, a simple inquiry before launching off on a mini-tirade would serve you well.

Furthermore, I do not recall expressing the view that I was trying to minimize cost by implementing cheap oil and filters. The bulk of your suggestions I have been practicing for a number of years. So, you leaped before looking, or at least in this case, asking. Again, nuff' said.

I have been provided with the requested information by another thoughtful reader (greywolf) and I do appreciate his effort. I now have at my disposal the requested information. Also, the numerous suggestions regarding the "topbox" are helpful. I do currently have the Rubbermaid on my KLR. Black w/gray lid and red handles. Looks nice and is quite functional. I'm now looking at the 26" long Rubbermaid "box". It may be just a wee-bit big however. Was just wondering what else there might be available that has been "tried and tested".

Oh' yes, one more thing. I agree with the expressed sentiment of "Big B" about not turning this simple question into a renegade oil thread. A simple question deserves a simple answer.

Well, now that I've alienated at least one of you I suppose I've out stayed my welcome.

You guys/gals take care.

1972 Kawasaki 100
1973 Honda CL175
1974 Honda MT250
1975 Honda CB550 Four
2003 Kawasaki Concours
2005 Yamaha FJR1300
2007 Suzuki DL1000 / 2008 Kawasaki KLR650
 
G

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Awwww, c'mon, don't take it so hard. You seem to have things well in hand concerning filters and such, and surely you must know that oil filters for bikes are usually more expensive than auto filters. That's just due to economies of scale. I'm not one to tell anyone what oil or filter to use, and I think alot of the guy's around here feel the same. Sometimes people get a little tired of the same question asked repeatedly. I can think of at least eight threads recently that have covered this topic in recent months.
 

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Just did the first oil change on the DL1000. Used a Fram PH6018.

The filter cost more than the oil. This I find to be very unacceptable. Any suggestions? Also, looking for creative suggestions other than GIVI. I've seen pictures of "boxes" by Rubbermain on the back of a few bikes. Not bad looking but would like a means of quickly disconnecting from the bike.

Shoot suggestions my way.

Thanks.
Hay ND, what may have thrown a few people off is the fact that you stated that the filter cost more then the oil and found this unacceptaple. Personaly I use a Zuk filter at a cost of around $12. The oil if using the good stuff is $9 a Qt. Total for oil $27. You are the one that asked for suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You're Right...

... I was the one that asked for suggestions. Perhaps my response was a little on the "tense" side. My apologies.

I do appreciate the listing of filters and the "box" suggestions. I've purchased both the 20" and the 26" Rubbermaid boxes for varied usage. Also bought a semi-tranparent shower mat to place between a custome aluminum rack and the "box" to minimize slippage. All of this will be installed on the morrow'.

Take care.
 

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First of all let me say that I could have provided you with the same site references, as well as quite a few others, regarding the inherent need for quality oil and filters. Nuff' said on that.

I asked for a cross reference to the Fram filter, because I am certainly aware of the exclaimed limitations of Fram. I did so because I desired to get away from Fram not stay with them, hence, the need for the "cross reference". Keep in mind that a single usage, because it was the only one available, does not act as an endorsement.

The oil was changed at 53 miles. Subsequent to this change will come one at 250 miles. I think I can say with confidence that Castrol GTX will handle this very brief distance with no consequence from shearing. To utilize a "pricey" oil would be silly for this short duration. GTX will provide admirable service and then act as a "flushing agent". Anything much more elaborate than this would indeed be "flushing money down the porcelain convenience".

To put your heart at rest please know that I do indeed run a quality synthetic oil as well as a high quality filter, when I can find one. Again, that was my reason for asking for the cross reference in the first place. I do appreciate your willingness to come to my "rescue" regarding a perceived "oil ignorance", but, a simple inquiry before launching off on a mini-tirade would serve you well.

Furthermore, I do not recall expressing the view that I was trying to minimize cost by implementing cheap oil and filters. The bulk of your suggestions I have been practicing for a number of years. So, you leaped before looking, or at least in this case, asking. Again, nuff' said.

I have been provided with the requested information by another thoughtful reader (greywolf) and I do appreciate his effort. I now have at my disposal the requested information. Also, the numerous suggestions regarding the "topbox" are helpful. I do currently have the Rubbermaid on my KLR. Black w/gray lid and red handles. Looks nice and is quite functional. I'm now looking at the 26" long Rubbermaid "box". It may be just a wee-bit big however. Was just wondering what else there might be available that has been "tried and tested".

Oh' yes, one more thing. I agree with the expressed sentiment of "Big B" about not turning this simple question into a renegade oil thread. A simple question deserves a simple answer.

Well, now that I've alienated at least one of you I suppose I've out stayed my welcome.

You guys/gals take care.

1972 Kawasaki 100
1973 Honda CL175
1974 Honda MT250
1975 Honda CB550 Four
2003 Kawasaki Concours
2005 Yamaha FJR1300
2007 Suzuki DL1000 / 2008 Kawasaki KLR650
OK, you are too serious, and take this forum too serious, as eloquent as you try to be, this is just the internet so calm down.
Second, you used a Fram filter even you you know its junk. What does that say?
You changed your oil at 53 miles-you wasted your money and drained perfectly good oil IMO.
You admit Fram filters are junk then admit to using them, Huh??
You asked where you can find one, then stated you know very well what to use since you do it normally-which is it?
Another change at 250 miles is another waste of money, which, in your first statement you are trying to avoid.
You used Castrol GTX oil as a flush, thats funny since thats all its good for..flushing...down the toilet or using in an '89 Hyundai.
My heart does not need resting, I am not trying to rescue you, but since you apparently have trouble finding good oil, waste oil by changing it every 50 or 200 miles, use admitted inferior oil and filters, what other inference ($20 word) can I make that you don't know what youre doing?
In addition, I never made reference to you using a milk crate for hauling your stuff around, that was someone else.
I obviously hit a sore point with you, I apoligize I can admit I don't understand you "overly-sensative" types who interpret any advice as criticism, I'm glad your post made you feel better about yourself, but I really dont care tell it to your therapy group next Friday.
BTW you are a cheap-skate you just dont realize it.
Love and kisses,

Nminus1
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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One of the reasons I really like this site is people are helpful and considerate. I changed my oil twice before 600 miles because it's then a lot of metal winds up in the oil. Pick on me if you want. I'll cheerfully ignore you and do my best to help with your next question.
 

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Oil Changes

One of the reasons I really like this site is people are helpful and considerate. I changed my oil twice before 600 miles because it's then a lot of metal winds up in the oil. Pick on me if you want. I'll cheerfully ignore you and do my best to help with your next question.
I too did 2 changes before 600 miles. 1 at 150 and the second at 500. Waste of money? Not to me. I want to make sure all the break in wear particals fro the engine, clutch, and transmission got out.
 

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If you changed the filter too then it wasn't a bad idea. I tend to err on the over-cautious side too. The filter can catch and re-release particles of certain sizes, getting them out of the picture is a good idea, flowing fresh oil back into the engine with a dirty filter kinda ruins the idea. I changed mine at 500, at 2000 it will be changed again, then every 2000. Oil changes are cheap insurance IMO, even synthetic, when a tank of gas costs $20 every 200-250 miles, the same every 2-3000 for an oil change is no big deal.
 

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Good Idea

Also bought a semi-tranparent shower mat to place between a custome aluminum rack and the "box" to minimize slippage.
That shower mat is probably a good idea. Those boxes can scratch the rack when used without any kind of barrier between them and the rack.

I also eventually went to a heavier bungy cord for $.99 from harbor freight which is made of a thick, exposed, solid rubber strap which is considerably stronger and will probably last longer. I also use use a cargo net with plastic hooks attached around the front side and to the bike to get additional support.

Never use any cords or straps with metal hooks to attach anything to the rack or else you may scratch it. The box, O.K. Metal or laminated hooks touching the rack, No.
 

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Rubbermaid boxes, shower mats, 99 cents bungee cords, you guys are killin me!!
 
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