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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I'm getting ready to loosen my K+N oil filter [please no "you shoulda used a Suzuki one, and this never woulda happened" stuff :headbang:], and for those of you who are familiar with them, know there's quite a bit of paint on the welded on nut on the surface of the filter. In my attempt to loosen the filter, I rounded off the nut, due to the paint interfering with a tight fit with the 17mm socket. I must admit I was a bit in a hurry, so I'm part to blame for my sloppy technique. Yay!

I have PWD skid plate crash bars, so I'm thinking I'm going to have to remove the crash guard/skid plate, so I can get some vice grips on the nut and loosen the filter. I thought about the ol' skewer it with a screwdriver trick, but kinda wanna avoid this one-way method. When I installed the filter, I tightened it the requisite two turns and used plenty of oil on the o-ring. I'm puzzled by how reluctant it is to loosen.

So, I put the oil drain plug back in, and filled the crankcase with oil, and intend to run it with the existing filter still in place for the time being. I'm hoping that by heating up the engine, I'll be able to more easily loosen the filter when the engine is a bit warm. Another observance - it appears the nut on the oil filter cover has a proprietary hole drilled thru it [possibly for safety wiring], the hole is about 1.5 mm wide. I'm thinking of drilling this out a bit, and maybe sliding a Phillips screwdriver into the hole and loosening it this way.

Any suggestions on getting this bugger off? Right now I can still drive the bike, so I'd like to avoid any method [like the screwdriver shish kabob] that might prevent me from operating the bike [as in piloting it to my local dealer for some help].

ARGH!
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The Suzuki filter uses two turns. I've never heard of any other one that does. I doubt the filter can be removed at this point without destroying it.
 

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I'd drop the skid plate and replace the filter with something better. The K&N "nut" is known to be nothing but a rather flimsy bit of sheet metal spot-welded to the end of the filter, and frankly, I'd be a little worried about it tearing at the weld. Depends on exactly what damage there is, I guess.

Look at the directions on the new filter -- it's probably got a rectangular seal instead of the Suzuki-style o-ring, so you only need 3/4 - 1 turn.

It won't hurt anything to just use the old filter, too, assuming it's not damaged -- Suzuki only specifies changing the filter every other oil change.
 

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Big channel lock pliers, grip the whole filter and turn it off. Yes, it will destroy it. When you put the new one on, tighten firmly by hand only. The 2 turn thing is crazy, and as GW says, only applies to the Suzuki filter.
 

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The 16" long Channellock pliers, #460, or similar tongue & groove pliers at lower cost, will do a fine job.

 

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A very large screwdriver driven completely thru the filter has always removed the most stubborn one...although destroying it. I use this method as a "last resort".

I used to use Fram oil filters on my Silverado//Duramax diesel and always installed them correctly and always had to remove them using the above method. The metal housings on Frams are too thin and are easily crushed using a band-style wrench. I will be buying GM filters for this vehicle in the future.
 

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Seems to me that filters were put on hand tight. tighten until snug and 1/2 turn more? Maybe folks are over tightening them?
I like the big pliers when the filter is hot.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Seems to me that filters were put on hand tight. tighten until snug and 1/2 turn more? Maybe folks are over tightening them?
OEM is two turns from contact due to a large round cross section O-ring. Most others are either hand tight or 3/4 to one full turn from contact due to a small round cross section or flat cross section O-ring..
 

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oil filter removal

To remove filters from my old Volvos I used to just drive a steel rod right thru, making an oily mess and use the rod as a lever to twist off the filter. Very messy but very effective.
Since then I use a 1/2" dive tool that has a loop of wide seatbelt material that grips the filter very well. Wish I could tell you where to get one, because it's much better than the narrow metal band type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll probably be tackling my reluctant oil filter tonight, but wanted to chime in that I did write K&N a letter describing my situation. They didn't blame me, or the filter, but said it was an unusual occurrence and told me they're sending me a complimentary new oil filter, just so there's no hard feelings.

Not too bad, I'd say!
 

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I'll probably be tackling my reluctant oil filter tonight, but wanted to chime in that I did write K&N a letter describing my situation. They didn't blame me, or the filter, but said it was an unusual occurrence and told me they're sending me a complimentary new oil filter, just so there's no hard feelings.

Not too bad, I'd say!
Very nice of them.
The K&Ns do not go on 2 full turns after contact. Hand tight or 3/4 turn is all they are speced for. The OEM Suzuki is the only filter to get 2 full turns.
 

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I gotta chime in here... if you've never used one of the three arm type filter wrenches you should really get one and try. I've broken every metal band filter wrench I've owned, then tried screw drivers and ChannelLocks (which are made in my hometown by the way). The three arm deal is sweet, here's a link... mine has serrations on the steel arms where the red plastic is on this one. To date I havn't found an oil filter in a position where it couldn't be used and it works on all different sizes.

Universal 3 Jaw Adjustable Oil Filter Wrench
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the tips - I never knew there were so many options out there!

That said, I did use some cheap channel-lock style pliers and was able remove my reluctant filter [didn't want to miss the first 70 degree Michigan riding day!] - - PHEW!!!! For the install, I used gentler approach designed to prevent a recurrance of this eyeball gouging experience!

And, a free new oil filter to boot! Say what you will about K&N's stuff, they do value their customers!!!!
 

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I had to use that little 3 prong tool on my wifes car as the oil place didn't hit the rim with oil. I use a little grease. Wipe it clean and just a little belray grease on the new seal keeps things loose.
 

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I gotta chime in here... if you've never used one of the three arm type filter wrenches you should really get one and try. I've broken every metal band filter wrench I've owned, then tried screw drivers and ChannelLocks (which are made in my hometown by the way). The three arm deal is sweet, here's a link... mine has serrations on the steel arms where the red plastic is on this one. To date I havn't found an oil filter in a position where it couldn't be used and it works on all different sizes.

Universal 3 Jaw Adjustable Oil Filter Wrench
I bought one of those recently, but have yet to try it. I believe it is only good for removal, but it does fit both my m/c and truck oil filters and obviously incorporates 'ratcheting action'.

Here's another item I found at harbor freight with jaws specifically designed for oil filters and will also fit both my m/c and truck oil filter. This one tightens too, of course ! Not sure which one I will keep as I need to see which one works best around my Adventure motostuff skidplate when lowered only in the back.

Locking Oil Filter Wrench
 

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I had the same problem after I put an oil filter adapter on and used a filter that only needed about one turn. I used two turns like I always did with Suzuki filters and sure enough that filter wasn't coming off peacably.

Even my rubber strap wrench just slipped on the smooth painted surface of the filter.

I just drove a long screwdriver through the filter and that did the trick. Got the filter to twist a quarter turn, then drove the screwdriver in again.

Of course I did not have a skid plate underneath. That would have made it very difficult.

Mike
 

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Nice to see I am not the only one with an oil filter apparently welded to the bike. Nylon strap tool won't budge it and I've bent the handle on a metal band tool. Seems when I do the change myself, next time it comes off. When I take it in for service, guess they must use an air gun on them because they always seem tighter than a bulls backside in fly season.

Not sure what brand it is as the lettering is pointed up, but it does have a nut on the end (as a joke I'm sure. I have yet to find a socket that will securely fit it)

wish me luck, and thanks for letting me know that others share my misery

BTW - That low rumble you can hear in the distance will be me casting doubt on the ancestry of the filter manufacturer and mechanic.:furious:
 

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Big channel lock pliers, grip the whole filter and turn it off. Yes, it will destroy it. When you put the new one on, tighten firmly by hand only. The 2 turn thing is crazy, and as GW says, only applies to the Suzuki filter.
+1 on that. I just use a pipe wrench. The new filter is hand tightened and has never leaked.
 
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