StromTrooper banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
New owner of a 2006 1000 here. I've spent a lot of time the past couple of days, perusing this forum and I'm getting information overload. I'm sure there is a thread in here that addresses my issue, and maybe someone could point me in the right direction.

I bought the bike about 2 weeks ago. Put a couple of hundred miles on it around home, then did about a 2000 mile trip. After a day on the trip, the bike was slow to spin the starter after a quick break. Thought nothing of it until another stop 10 minutes later. Upon trying to start the bike again, the starter barely turned and then nothing. Used a little jump starter back and headed to town. Had the battery tested and was told it was working as it should. After that, the bike worked well for the next 1500 miles, until yesterday. The only thing I've done electrically, was to install a cigarette lighter plug, that went straight to battery. I did disconnect this when I had my problem, even though nothing had been plugged in.

I got back home and hooked up the lighter plug again, not seeing how this could be an issue, however wanted to try to figure out why things happened the first time. Made a stop and the started wouldn't spin. I also noticed that the clock had reset to what must be the default time of 1:00. When I used the battery jumper pack, it fired right up. When I disconnected the jumper, it died. Used the jumper one more time and when the engine fired, it was running very rough. The FI warning came on the display and my low oil pressure light came on. Needless to stay, I shut it off and was towed home. When I checked battery voltage, it was about 10.5 volts.

I charged the battery and now when I turn the key on, nothing happens. No fuel pump, lights, nothing. Though the clock had not reset to 1:00. I checked fuses, including the 30 amp main. All are good.

Any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
Reading your first three paragraphs, I'd say you need to get out your multi-meter and check the stator -- ACV output while running and resistance check with engine off. The first part of your saga sounds like either a fried stator or moved magnets. If your battery was at 10.5 DCV after a ride, the charging system isn't doing its part. A diode check on the regulator/rectifier is also kinda simple to do.

To address the last paragraph of issues, start with the simple things first. It could be an over looked kill switch. Make certain it is in the correct position. Or maybe your battery terminals are not secured sufficiently? With the battery now charged, what is the meter reading for voltage across the battery posts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
So your battery is fully charged, the fuses are all good, the clock shows time, yet when you turn the ignition key you get no lights, no fuel pump and no sweep of the gauge needles? ( You get clock time but absolutely nothing else? ) The shop manual wiring diagram would lead me back to the 30 amp fuse. Do you have a spare to install, simply do as a check? You mentioned that this cig plug went direct to the battery and that you have connected and disconnected it multiple times recently. Are the battery terminals on tight? And with the bike upright, you on the seat, kickstand up, clutch pulled, tranny in neutral, key "on", kill switch on "run", what happens when you hit the starter button?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Terminals tight. Bike upright, kickstand up, tranny in neutral (even though the indicator light won't come on, kill switch on run, hit starter and nothing.

Just to see what happened, I took the battery out and pulled a battery out of the Moto Guzzi that hasn't ran in a while. It had shows 12.4 volts. It wouldn't quite fit in the battery tray, but I was able to hook it up in a temporary fashion. Turn the key on and everything lights up, fuel pump makes noise, guages come on.

Not sure the age of the current Vstrom battery, but I'm tempted to run out and buy a new battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,894 Posts
This is one of the reasons why it is advised to load test a battery, to check for internal problems. Just because a battery has a good voltage, doesn't always translate to the battery having enough amps in reserve, to start a vehicle. A good second battery source will help rule out a bad 1st battery, by a jump start test.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
Quota, if the MotoG battery lights you up and your current battery doesn't, I think you might have found part of your problem. As Gert said, it is good to load test a questionable battery. But, in your first post you said the battery was tested and found to be good. Who did that load test? Someplace like Advance Auto can load test your battery and help you known if you need a new one.

But now that the last paragraph in your first post may be resolved with a battery, I think you still need to take a look at some of the things you described in your first three paragraphs of that post. First and easiest would be to check the voltage of the new battery with engine off. Then start the bike with the battery installed and check the voltage at idle, 3000 rpm and 5000 rpm. If you are up in the 14.0-14.5 volt range at 3-5k rpm, it would seem that your charging system is good. If it is lower, I'd look into checking it. If you ride for a period of time/miles and the bike won't restart or your battery reads 10.5 volts, I would advise checking the other components of the charging system, including: stator output, regulator/rectifier, and magnet position. The ACV tests for the stator can help determine if the stator or magnet positioning are suspect. The static test on the stator can hone in on that further. And don't forget the static test on the R/R.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Gert and Yarz. Voltage on the battery with bike not running was 12.6V. As I ran the bike at 5K rpm, the voltage gradually climbed, until after about a minute, it was at 14.3V. I'm still going to check everything that Yarz suggests.

I had the battery tested at a CarQuest auto parts store. I'm assuming it was a load test, because the person doing was talking in amps and not volts.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,539 Posts
You may have purchased a bike with charging problems masked by a new battery the previous owner installed to get rid of the bike.

Sounds to me like migrated magnets at least. They seem to kill stators.

Good news is it's not a huge job. First step is to do the electrical testing. If anything looks iffy, pull the stator cover off and have a look at the flywheel. Odds are, the magnets are all bunched up on one side of the flywheel. They all seem to do this eventually and it's worth the peace of mind to take care of it now when the bike is new to you.

Consider it a bonding experience (yes, you need JB Weld).

You should be able to find a date on the battery someplace.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks larolco. The battery that the bike came with, had been in there for a while. The bike hadn't been used much in a couple of years. Previous owner was diagnosed with a condition that won't be getting any better. The battery wasn't replaced with a new one, until I did so a few days ago. When I installed the battery, the volt meter was reading 14+ volts at 5K rpm. I was hopeful that was the issue, but not 100% confident, so rode the bike yesterday. After it got hot, the voltage was reading 12.5-12.6. So checking things out today.

Trying to check resistance values on the stator, as per the manual, but not sure I have the right coupler undone under the left side cover. I thought the wires were to be yellow, but not finding a coupler with 3 yellow wires. || is the configuration of the 3 wire plug that I've undone. Is this correct? ¯
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I read the thread the Gert posted, about the magnets. Thank you. Just to confirm, I'll spread the magnets evenly apart, an then put my JB Weld in between. After cleaning everything of course. When checking the stator through the wires, I'm not getting any resistance. Is this correct when it is bad? I'd think it would have too much resistance.
Again, maybe I'm not thinking straight because I've been at this for too long today and need a break...

Thanks to all for your helpful input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
When checking the stator through the wires, I'm not getting any resistance. Is this correct when it is bad? I'd think it would have too much resistance.
There should be resistance if the wires are good. Some good info in the first couple postings at https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php?topic=10391.0

From looking at the photo you posted, at the 9 o'clock position on that stator, it appears there is a burn there. Any non-copper color like black is suspect of a frying of the stator due to a short or wire breaking. No resistance in the wires typically indicates a break.

If you determine you need a new stator, I'd suggest that you buy it directly from your local dealer or Suzuki on-line. There are alternative sellers out there, but many of the posts on previous threads about this subject give not-so-good reviews of them.

And as you do the JB Weld modification to the magnets, be extremely careful with the magnets. There are posts on this forum indicating that those magnets are quite fragile and break easily if you twist them slightly. Lots of good info on the forum of how to do the JB Weld mod.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thank you Yarz. Suzuki OEM stator on the way. Will be gentle with the magnets. Don't need any more issues...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,539 Posts
Thank you Yarz. Suzuki OEM stator on the way. Will be gentle with the magnets. Don't need any more issues...
Yes, OEM stator. The JB weld fix is fairly straightforward. Use tile spacers or the like to maintain a relatively equal spacing between magnets. Like any job, the prep work (cleaning) is important. Get all the oil out of there with lacquer thinner or something like that. Be very careful with the magnets when you remove them. Keep them separate from each other so they don't smack together. Don't know if it's important, but I kept track of orientation so they went back the same way they came out.

The key is to fill the void between the magnets so they cannot move again. Lots of threads on the topic in this forum.

Even if your stator is okay, I'd replace anyhow while you're in there.

I'm assuming from your pic that you already removed one of the magnets? If not, one is missing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
The 'missing' magnet would appear to be firmly stuck to the stator between 7 and 8 o'clock.
Seriously lucky to get away without munched magnet throught the motor/gearbox I think.

Cheers Tom R
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,539 Posts
The 'missing' magnet would appear to be firmly stuck to the stator between 7 and 8 o'clock.
Seriously lucky to get away without munched magnet throught the motor/gearbox I think.

Cheers Tom R
I see only 5 magnets. Where is the 6th? Am I missing something?
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top