[greywolf]

Check the tire date. There will be an oval on one side wall with four numbers in it. The first tow are the week and second two are the year of manufacture. Suspect tires over six years old.

 

[Improperly Torqued]

Check the tire date. There will be an oval on one side wall with four numbers in it. The first tow are the week and second two are the year of manufacture. Suspect tires over six years old.

+1. No point in trying to guess at the condition of the rubber; just go by age. I don't like them more than 5 years old or 3 years on the bike, when I have a choice. I also do not run them below 2mm of tread.

I did find that the stock Trailwings didn't wear nearly as well as the Tourances, but there are too many variables for that to really mean anything to you.

 

[Scott E. Bonds]

Front is dangerous and should be replaced....cracking is baddd. Cupping normal.

Rear looks OK to me. I don't use dates because motorcycles may live inside...mine does. Tires can last a long time when out of the sun and in a nice controlled environment.

 

[larry0071]

I've seen similar on many brands of tire. I've never seen it as an issue. I blame it on UV degredation fron setting the bike out in the sun at work for 10 hours a day. Also could be from ozone in a garage with compressor/drills/saws running often. Mine is like that.

My personal vote is to monitor it but not panick.

 

[greywolf]

Surface cracking not on the ground contact area isn't a major problem unless it reaches the cord or loosens the tread block. I'd keep an eye on it and go by age unless it gets worse.

 

[larry0071]

For reference, this is a newer mounted tire. A Bias Shinko 705 on a KLR.

 

[larry0071]

GreyWolf, note that top block on the photo I just put up, that block has some real light craze cracking. I really see that on most tires that I have put on and I always suspected it was honestly due to the UV exposure setting out at work.

I've not been unlucky enough to see anything that looked like there was actual delamination traveling under the tread block, it always appears at the radius area where the tred block's vertical side tapers over to the flat main carcass. But only the mild cracking, never any WOW inducing cracking.

 

[Improperly Torqued]

Total amateur in this regard, so take this for what it's worth; but my suspicion would be that cracking probably indicates drying of the rubber, which won't likely lead to catastrophic failure, but would indicate less flexibility and thus less grip. If you rarely wear off your chicken strips, that might not be a big deal.

 

[Scott E. Bonds]

Do you guys stop to put out engine fires or just speed up and let them blow themselves out?

The first tire pic is done. I would not bet my life on it...no sir. Wait for cords or threads....please.

The second example is not nearly as bad as the OPs. But I would watch it close none the less.

If you ever experience a flat at highway speeds you may feel the way I do. I no longer mess around with questionable rubber and always replace valve stems with every new tire. I'll economize other places.

Brakes and tires. Not a place to push your luck.

 

[greywolf]

I differentiate crazing and cracking. Surface crazing on a trad block is not a deal breaker.

 

[mhoffm]

I would never run on that tire once I saw the dry rot. A bike is not a car. One failure is too much. Replace both and enjoy your ride.

 

[jccc]

Pretty common on the Bridgestone Trailwings front tire, mine also had similar cracking on the front tire. I never had any issues with drivability, the tire performed well until I changed it out.

 

[motorat]

i had this on a rear avon distenzia. as soon as i saw it i parked the bike and replaced the tires.

 

[greywolf]

That's a good example of a crack to the cord. Replacement is needed.

 

[NWArkie]

You call those cracks? I think you're fine as long as you're not scraping the pegs on a daily basis. +1 on checking the age of the tires though..

 

[BikeRider]

Save up some money... replace the tires. Save your life.

 

[Brahms]

Stupid Newbie Question. . .

I'm new (again) to this two-wheeled life after 40 years off. My Michelin Pilot Road (front) with 7,000 miles, eleven months old, doesn't show any cupping, crazing or cracking, and is maybe halfway worn. Is this a situation where a street tire is going to last better in predominantly street use versus an 80/20 like the TWs or the 705s? Or the Anakee 2 that's my rear tire?

If so, then how do i reconcile this with no crazing on the worn-slap-out 8-yo Dunlop knobbies on my (late) KLR250, and the serious crazing on the zero-mileage 2-yo Bridgestone street tires on my (late) VTR250? Sounds like a Bridgestone problem to me.

 

[robo107]

Wow! same here. 2009 wee 11k miles

Not going to post a pic because it looks identical to the other guys pics of their stock Trailwings. I'm at 11k miles w/ cupping and low tread depth so I just ordered an Anakee2 to replace it. Full details in main tire thread.

 

[tucsonstrom]

Hello Bid wee wee,

I wouldn't think twice about replacing your tires.:yikes: I understand I am considered a weeless wonder but I usually ride my VEE at speed and any equipment failure would be a catastrophe. :yesnod:

At speed you either trust your tires or you don't...............really no in between.:fineprint:

Good luck!