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Hi All,

Just got an '04 DL1000, 12K miles on it. Prior to buying a bike I always read up on known problems. So I know why certain things the way they are on the bike.

This one has already had a TBS. The only issue I'm having now is that slow speed riding is kind of jerky. I will use this bike for commuting too, so this can get old. From these forums I gather that there are 3 things that smooth the ride:

1.) TBS procedure already done by previous owner, but the pics are gone from that thread, does anyone know of another one?)

2.) Secondary adjustment - Is this what I need to do to smooth out lower RPMs?

3.) TPS Adjustment.

4.) Power commander - not ready for this yet.

My main question - is there an order to which these are done? If I adjust/remove secondary plates, will I have to re-sync TB or readjust the TPS? Any help is appreciated and I just want to say that this is an awesome forum - lots of info!
 

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Omk= I am a post whore

There is no reason not to do this all at once but the sync should be last.

I also used tubes and t's and my vacuum taps are together under the seat.

My experience and others is there is a LEAN condition because of the Evil Promotion Agency which requires either a PC or like device or an ECU remap. This is the cause of the uneven running issues and it won't get better without more gas.
 

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"My experience and others is there is a LEAN condition because of the Evil Promotion Agency which requires either a PC or like device or an ECU remap. This is the cause of the uneven running issues and it won't get better without more gas. "

x2. I had mine done with a yosh box. not as much adjustability as a PC but solved the ill lean condition just fine. Be ready for a hit in mpg though...but its worth every penny.
 

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From what my big manual says..and my very recent experience (last weekend). Do (check) the throttle position sensor (TPS) last.

In my case. I skipped sync...didn't show signs of issue there.
My plugs were less than 5000 miles old.
My A filter was less than 10,000 miles old.

But, my TPS was way out of adjustment. I was not aware they could go out of adjustment...I figured they only failed or gave faulty readings. Mine started stalling when I pulled in clutch at stops and idle got very rough. This condition came on quickly. I am not sure its fixed yet but i left bike in dealer mode and for 300 or so miles the TPS stayed right where it should.

At this point, I reset mode to clock so I wouldn't rear end a car watching my diagnostic info. When it comes back...or maybe next tune up, I will recheck TPS. Its very easy to do.
 

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I bought my '07 Vee from a dealer in LeGrande, Oregon, and they set my FI to run as fat as possible for the stock system, and my bike has been smooth and nice since new. I have never wished for more or smoother power.
I did try my own TBS, and it seems to sweeten up whenever I do it, once or twice a year.
I know a guy who does a TBS about once a week--that may be a little strenuous, I think.
One of my best mods was to change the front sprocket to a 16T (down from the stock 17T) it seems I pick up revs quicker, but the bike is STILL geared up plenty high. I do get good mpg's tho, I have cracked 50 mpg a couple of times.
 

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Check also chain adjustment/condition & sprockets.

An out of adjustment/worn chain will produce snatchiness at low speed.
 

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From what my big manual says..and my very recent experience (last weekend). Do (check) the throttle position sensor (TPS) last.

.
Like Randy says...I'd do the TPS first otherwise it's a pointless exercise.
 

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Have you actually done this?

The TBS only gets both linkages opening the plates at the correct time, and manifold vacuum is the indicator that they are. The spark plugs have nothing to do with this. Air filter maybe...but I would argue that.

The TPS is different. You want everything else correct first before you mess (adjust) the TPS. If not you are chasing yourself in circles. The TPS tells the ECU where the throttle angle is.

The manual is sometimes wrong but in this case I think not.

Just a 100 rpm change in idle speed will screw up the TPS adjustment if you do it at the wrong RPM.

Check the TPS wherever in the sequence you please, but I would check and/or adjust it last after being confident the other stuff is fine.

After rereading this thread, I am not clear on what the sequence Randyo even was recommending...its been a long day here at work.





...and thanks for the quote.
 

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Start with the chain. Follow the keep-it-simple-stupid method. Don't freak the guy out with all the mumbo jumbo. Basics, people. It's a used bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, so here's the latest:

The dealer called me back and said Suzuki cleared him to replace the ECM, however (as it says in the bulletin) he first needs to adjust the TPS and perform the TBS. Suzuki is not paying for that part and they don't trust me to do it myself :) . The dealer said that if I bring it in he'll charge me $90 for everything. I'm willing to spend that, even though I already bought the parts for a homemade manometer and was looking forward to doing this. The bike is going in on Sept. 17th I will let you know what the results of this exercise are.

I decided that If all of that fails the next steps are: a.) Secondary removal + another TBS b.) Power Commander.

I will get this bike running right, one way or another.:thumbup:
 

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I too have every one of these issues. i have an 02 that i bought with 15K miles on it in April to replace driving my diesel 130mi round trip to work (for obvious reasons). it ran like dookie so i took it in. I'm not just a strom noob, but a moto noob. So no work here until i get time to familiarize myself with the manual.

Took it in and had the valves/tappets adjusted. changed plugs, filter, chain, anakees, etc...still ran like arse. Stalled if i threw the clutch in over 3K, sputtered, jerked, etc.started going through the manual and looking at the adjustments. my RPM's got up, but my filter box keeps popping off the TB. i took the top end apart after a couple of months (5Kmi) to regap plugs and check whatever i could. cleaned up the wiring and the area to check all the sensors, re-established connection from filter box to TB. Thinking of taking it in for the TBS/TPS adjust. However, after i put it together, FI light comes on. Now it runs much richer and better, but still jerky and FI light is on. Christmas tree at night with the brights on...

Anyway, can't find a broken wire or anything. can't get the RPM's back down to 1200...i take it in and get a code 28, which is the stva connector (or something like that). if that isn't it, replace the ECM and retest...yeah right...1,500 bucks and retest but suzuki won't take it back if that's not it. Someone on another thread said take out the secondary throttle plate and run it as is...

So...i am going to take mine in next week also for the same things, but should i remove the secondary throttle plate? is that legal in california? does it screw anything up? i can't really complain, because even with the richer running, i still get 46mpg running an average of 80 over my trip...but i want it right because it gets old fast.

my list next week:
TBS, TPS and...secondary throttle plates removed?
 

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Yosh box FTMFW.
 
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