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Discussion Starter #1
700 miles on my 2018 DL650XT. Went to start the bike in the driveway and it wouldn't start when in gear and with the clutch in. Sidestand was up. It starts fine in neutral. I had just taken off my clutch lever and reinstalled it so I figured maybe the clutch switch plunger or something internal to the switch was sticking. So I clipped the wires to the switch and jumpered them. Still have the same problem. When I start the bike in neutral and switch into gear it keeps running. Hope it's not something ridiculously obvious but I'm flummoxed.
 

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Separate the clutch switch wires that You have connected and try again. That switch might work in the opposite way to what You think.

Given that it only happened after your removal of the clutch lever then it has to be related to that ?
 

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I sure hope by "clipped" you didn't mean cut the wires on a new bike!

This could still be the sidestand switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, I clipped the wires then reattached with heat shrink. Also tried jumping with a separate wire sticking the ends into the switch.
I could take it into a dealer, but as Griff2 mentioned, it has to be something related to removing and reattaching the lever. Trying to avoid two trips to the dealer as it just has to be something obvious.
Yes tried the side stand. It works properly. You can year the fuel pump starting up when you raise the side stand with the started button engaged.
 

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So I'm clear....you stated you clipped the wires to the switch. Did you jumper the 2 harness wires or the 2 going to the switch? Does not the switch have it's own connector you can remove from the switch and jumper it there with a paper clip?
Why did you take the lever off?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I connected the two wires coming from the bike. Also tried connecting the two at the switch but that's useless as the switch isn't connected to anything when you separate it from the bike. The wires are connected solid in the switch housing and can't be removed, although I did try a separate wire sticking the ends into the switch housing where it would contact both connectors. Will try again with a paperclip.
I took the lever off to install ASV folding levers. Although ASV shipped the wrong lever so I've got the OEM back in temporarily.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
With my DR you simply pull the connectors on the clutch switch which leaves the wires separated to bypass it
You're right, I didn't see that. I pulled the connector out of the clutch switch and jumpered with a paperclip and still no go.
 

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Perhaps you are looking in the wrong place.
If the clutch switch plunger did not extend, the bike would not start at all - either in neutral OR in gear.
List all recent mods or maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Perhaps you are looking in the wrong place.
If the clutch switch plunger did not extend, the bike would not start at all - either in neutral OR in gear.
List all recent mods or maintenance.
The clutch plunger is extending, although it doesn't seem to have a gap between it and the clutch lever, which means it may not be extended out all the way, but it starts fine in neutral with the clutch in or out.

Recent electrical mods:
Oxford heated grips
Adv Tech spotlights
Admore brake lights
Hardwired GPS
Hardwired Radar Detector

Everything wired to an aux fuse block and and aux ground bus bar except the heated grips which go direct to battery.
All the farkles work fine.
 

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Ok, you can cut and connect the sidestand switch without any issues( I have done this on both my DL's)

But, by cutting and connecting the clutch switch wires you have now most likely created a
problem since the clutch switch voltage is monitored by the ECM which adjusts the fuel mapping when the clutch is both engaged and disengaged. The bike will run, it just will not run properly at certain rpm's. See this thread:

https://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom-service-maintenance-questions-discussions/9406-pass-sidestand-clutch-switches.html

I found this quote from Greywolf:
"The ECM wants the connection open when the clutch lever is out and closed when it is in. Only 2007 and later 650s have trouble with jumpering the switch wires. Earlier Wees and all Vees so far are fine with it."
 

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I see the OP stated that he clipped the wires, then reattached them with heat-shrink. How were the wires joined? Crimp connectors, solder, or just twisted together?
An inexpensive volt-ohmmeter (from Horror Fright, no less) set for checking continuity would quickly and easily test the clutch switch, sidestand switch, or any other switch. Continuity could be checked between the clutch switch and ground.
According to the the wiring schematic in my service manual, power is supplied to the starter relay from the battery to the main fuse-->ignition switch-->side stand relay( which activates when the side-stand or gear position switch closes)-->engine stop switch-->starter button-->starter relay coil, which is grounded to operate when the clutch switch completes the circuit to ground.
While my motto "Always look FIRST where the human was LAST" could apply here, such is not always the case. Connectors could be loosened, terminals can make poor contact. Or any item in the starting system that powers or grounds the starter relay could be at fault, including the starter relay itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Again I suggest trying to start the bike with the wires disconnected from each other
Yep, have tried that. Once I realized that there is a connector in the clutch switch, I re-spliced the wires back together and just removed the connector from the switch. That is the same thing as having the wires disconnected from each other. It still won't start.
thx
 

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Ok, you can cut and connect the sidestand switch without any issues( I have done this on both my DL's)

But, by cutting and connecting the clutch switch wires you have now most likely created a
problem since the clutch switch voltage is monitored by the ECM which adjusts the fuel mapping when the clutch is both engaged and disengaged. The bike will run, it just will not run properly at certain rpm's.
M7, looking at my wiring diagram, I'm at a loss to see how the ECU monitors the sidestand switch, or even adjusts fuel mapping taking sidstand switch voltage into consideration.
What I'm seeing is 1 terminal of the sidestand switch connecting to a ground, the other terminal powered by the a fuse through the sidestand relay coil, which also powers the gear position switch and provides a neutral switch signal at the ECU.
 

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A few questions.

Each time you stop your bike to you use the ignition switch or one of the safety cut-out switches ?

What is displayed on your dash where your gear position number would be, when the bike will start and when it won't ?

Do your headlights go out when you hit the start button ?


Did you move any stuff under the seat when fitting your aftermarket gear like the tilt switch ?


If the stand switch is faulty the bike should start when in neutral no matter what, but it will stall every time a gear is selected, a - will be shown where the gear position indicator is and a CHECK where the odometer is.


The kill switch will also show a - & a CHECK
 

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M7, looking at my wiring diagram, I'm at a loss to see how the ECU monitors the sidestand switch, or even adjusts fuel mapping taking sidstand switch voltage into consideration.
What I'm seeing is 1 terminal of the sidestand switch connecting to a ground, the other terminal powered by the a fuse through the sidestand relay coil, which also powers the gear position switch and provides a neutral switch signal at the ECU.
Maz, I was talking about the clutch switch...sidestand switch is ok to cut and connect the two wires together.
 

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M7, gotcha, I missread your post.
In the Mazdas, when there was a clutch switch failure many times the engine would stall rolling up to a sto with the clutch pedal depressed. The reason was that the engine needed a rich mixture at idle than when rolling in gear under float or slight accel, during which the TPS richened up the mixture(increase injection duration through the ECU). There was no code shown, no check engine light on. We had several that came in for the same problem. The only way I found it was by shifting into neutral rolling to a stop, then the engine would never stall. The manual transmission neutral switch signal substituted for the clutch switch. Looking at the wiring diagram it was easy to see both worked in tandem.
But..in WVS post, it isnt a running issue, but a starting in gear issue that's his problem. I still maintain that diagnosis with a volt-ohmmeter and a 12VDC test light would find the exact cause of his problem here.
 

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I have just had the up graded ECU fitted to my 2014 V2 now when I'm in gear if I start to ease out the clutch leaver the RPM's build a little and then drop back when I pull in the leaver again.

This was not evident with the old ECU.

The V2 gets a lot more information displayed on the dash that the earlier bikes did, getting out there and having a play with all the safety switches and knowing what is displayed and when may help you on the side of the road one day.


When I was making arrangement for my new ECU I got into a discussion about a Kawasaki they were having problems with, I suggested they replace the clutch switch, (not required to start the bike) when I dropped my bike off for the ECU they told me the problem was indeed the switch and they had put it into their book of things learnt from others.
 
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