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I saw this once before. The failure is in the ABS unit. Either replace it or buy the non-abs brake hoses and abandon the unit.
 
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I'm not so sure either would work.
That is the part number from the 2012 DL650 parts catalog for the ABS Hydraulic Unit, my understanding is the ABS did not change from 2012 to 2015. That is the part that is plugged up, isn't it?

Some websites are listing part# 55610-11J00 as "Unfortunately this part is no longer available from the manufacturer." While part# 55610-11J01 is listed for 2014-2015 is available??
 

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I didn't word that well. I meant I was not sure if they were interchangeable. Not only did I not word it well, but I was confused on the issue. I was thinking the conversation was comparing Glee and Wee units which are markedly different but that was not the case at all. They are both Glee units and only have the one number difference in the last digit. That is indicative of a different source or even warehousing plan for the same spec part. The two Glee parts are almost assuredly interchangeable.
 

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I was looking at the hydraulic schematic of the ABS unit and there are 2 solenoid valves in the unit (for rear and front, so 4 total). The in goes to the caliper (NO) and the out returns to the hydraulic motor (NC) in the unit. If the in solenoid gets stuck in the closed position it could make your rear brake unusable.

That would be my guess to what the hydraulic unit problem is. Bypassing the rear HU would be a cheap fix.
 

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I was looking at the hydraulic schematic of the ABS unit and there are 2 solenoid valves in the unit (for rear and front, so 4 total). The in goes to the caliper (NO) and the out returns to the hydraulic motor (NC) in the unit. If the in solenoid gets stuck in the closed position it could make your rear brake unusable.

That would be my guess to what the hydraulic unit problem is. Bypassing the rear HU would be a cheap fix.
Agree with the cheap fix the unit is very expensive. IMHO, I would bypass both front and rear, or just the rear line and remove the ABS fuses. Not sure of the advantages/disadvantages of having ABS active only on the front tire?
 

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I would much rather keep the ABS on the front alone than not at all. The best thing about ABS IMO is to be able to use the stronger brake, the front one, in wet weather without fear of lockup. Of course I know how to handle the rear brake which won't put the bike right down if locked. The inexperienced rider probably has more trouble with the rear because it is so much easier to lock up but killing ABS on the front won't help with that.
 

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When I noticed the problem, the rear brakes would work intermittently at first. After parking the bike for about a week or two, if you could depress the pedal, the brakes would be normal, but at times the pedal just wouldn't budge. At this point applying more pressure would free up the pedal and the brakes would be normal again. Recently though, the pedal wouldn't budge no matter what down pressure you applied. Of course, I did not force it.
The mechanic tried to bleed the brakes, then dismantled and reassembled the rear caliper and the master cylinder replacing the fluid. After this, fluid would reach #24(in Greywolf's diagram) by pumping the pedal, and therefore be entering into the abs unit. But, fluid would not exit out of the abs and into #25. Mechanic also installed a "bypass" brake line from the master cylinder to the caliper to isolate the abs. With this bypass line installed I now have my rear brakes working to the point of even locking up the wheel if you want.
This leads us to conclude that it is a blocked/clogged abs unit. Any more suggestions as to how to perform the backflush/declogging?
My 2012 DL650 was acquired brand new back in March 2012 and has 31,000kms on it. I maintain it religiously, keep it clean and don't "abuse" it. At the same time I don't think I'm babying it either. Im somewhat depressed that this seems to be the first time anyone has brought up an abs problem on this model. :frown2:
I am going thru the same problem right now, which led me to this post!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

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Lets go back to before the problem occurred. What changed/what happened?

Was there a dirt knap for the bike on the brake side? Was the rear wheel removed for a tire change? Anything at all, or was everything absolutely operating normal with no changes and then one day it was locked up?
 

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On my drive into work this morning I heard on the radio that Harley Davidson is recalling a bunch of bikes because of ABS brake failure. If I understood correctly the issue is that the fluid needs to be flushed every two years and if not it can cause a valve in the ABS unit to seize up/plug up and cause the brakes to fail.

I wonder if this is the same kind of issue the OP had here.

Found a link:

https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/harley-davidson-recalls-175000-motorcycles-over-brake-failure/

..Tom
 

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I was looking at the hydraulic schematic of the ABS unit and there are 2 solenoid valves in the unit (for rear and front, so 4 total). The in goes to the caliper (NO) and the out returns to the hydraulic motor (NC) in the unit. If the in solenoid gets stuck in the closed position it could make your rear brake unusable.

That would be my guess to what the hydraulic unit problem is. Bypassing the rear HU would be a cheap fix.
Agreed, and have seen this before on other bikes. Usually a piece of crap gets stuck in the solenoid. Won't throw a fault as electronically everything is fine and the relays fire, just the solenoid is not moving and stuck in the closed position. This is a normally open valve and needs a signal to close when the ABS is being used. Take a look at the attached diagram. The solenoid in the red box is most likely the issue.

These units are technically non servicable but there are companies out there that do make a living servicing them for cheaper than a new one.

I would turn the bike on and as you are pushing the pedal up and down (I know, it does not move but you are still applying pressure to the system) give the abs unit a couple of good wacks. Not enough to break the thing, but enough to shock it a bit. A wrench can be your tool of choice. Worth a try. Can't hurt.
 

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Sounds like crud in the line/ABS hydraulic unit. Get a syringe and tubing. Try to backflush new brake fluid through the rear caliper bleed nipple. Disconnect the master cylinder line, don't want any crud to go in there.
If that works finish bleeding. Ride and engage the ABS several times to get any crud in the ABS solenoid loose and replace/bleed with new fluid again.
Hi, I am having the same problem. I swapped the lines and back washed it. Fluid came out. When I connect the lines the proper way, no fluid comes out. Do I need a vacuum pump?

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Sounds like the ABS hydraulic unit's has some crud in it, Harley Davidson is having the same issues and is recalling some bikes for a fluid change. There are some places that will rebuild the unit, seen a post about this on here, do a google search of the website (if I remember correctly is was BOSCH, Germany).

Doing a web search unit part number 55610-11J01 for some sites is no longer available from Suzuki or at other sites for about $1,400. Interesting for the 2017 DL650 the part number is different 55610-28K00 price is $483, I am wondering if this can be a direct replacement, even with the 2017's traction control, it uses the same mounting bracket? Would have to have both available for comparison or contact Suzuki.
 

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Sounds like the ABS hydraulic unit's has some crud in it, Harley Davidson is having the same issues and is recalling some bikes for a fluid change. There are some places that will rebuild the unit, seen a post about this on here, do a google search of the website (if I remember correctly is was BOSCH, Germany).

Doing a web search unit part number 55610-11J01 for some sites is no longer available from Suzuki or at other sites for about $1,400. Interesting for the 2017 DL650 the part number is different 55610-28K00 price is $483, I am wondering if this can be a direct replacement, even with the 2017's traction control, it uses the same mounting bracket? Would have to have both available for comparison or contact Suzuki.
I thought elsewhere on the forum it was said the part number first numbers were the actual part number and the numbers after the dash were model/bin? tracking info. So 55610 would be the same if I am recalling correctly. Its somewhere...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by okidave View Post
Sounds like the ABS hydraulic unit's has some crud in it, Harley Davidson is having the same issues and is recalling some bikes for a fluid change. There are some places that will rebuild the unit, seen a post about this on here, do a google search of the website (if I remember correctly is was BOSCH, Germany).

Doing a web search unit part number 55610-11J01 for some sites is no longer available from Suzuki or at other sites for about $1,400. Interesting for the 2017 DL650 the part number is different 55610-28K00 price is $483, I am wondering if this can be a direct replacement, even with the 2017's traction control, it uses the same mounting bracket? Would have to have both available for comparison or contact Suzuki.
I thought elsewhere on the forum it was said the part number first numbers were the actual part number and the numbers after the dash were model/bin? tracking info. So 55610 would be the same if I am recalling correctly. Its somewhere...
Quote from Greywolf "There is no real parts code that I know of except for paint color at the end of painted parts. The number behind the dash seems to involve the origin of the part in terms of subcontractor, factory, warehouse etc.."

I wonder why the big price difference for basically the same part?
 

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Had no rear brake and a "frozen" rear brake pedal so suzuki mechanic dismantled, cleaned, and reinstalled master cylinder and rear brake caliper then replaced with new fluid. Upon bleeding the brake system we noticed that the master cylinder was sending pressurized brake fluid to the ABS system but no matter how hard we pumped the pedal, no fluid was exiting from the ABS system located just above the rear tire. No brake fluid is reaching the brake calipers.
Fluid is entering the ABS but not exiting, so rear calipers cannot do their job.
ABS light on instrument panel is behaving normally, and turns off when the bike exceeds 5km/per hour as the manual says.
Front brakes are normal.

Dealer is stumped. Any ideas would be most welcome. Thank you.
Identical VStrom 650 ABS 2012 with identical problems - rear brake wont depress at all, all of a sudden.

I feel the dread of having to pay $2000 for a new ABS module looming ...
 

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It seems funny to me that it is always the rear brake,

If any brake was to modulate/operate the ABS unit more often it would be the rear not the front so a stuck valve should be more likely in the front.

Every few weeks I purposely activate my ABS front and rear to keep the fluid moving, I do this because I leave my ABS turned off 24/7

Maybe activating it is not such a good idea ????
 

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It seems funny to me that it is always the rear brake, If any brake was to modulate/operate the ABS unit more often it would be the rear not the front so a stuck valve should be more likely in the front.
I noticed the same thing. The Gen2 Wee ABS was a redesign for less weight and less amps. I think they are getting cooked by the rear exhaust header.

Every few weeks I purposely activate my ABS front and rear to keep the fluid moving, I do this because I leave my ABS turned off 24/7. Maybe activating it is not such a good idea ????
This is a good practice but it only exercises the valves, the fluid barely moves by design. Gen2 Wee riders should bleed the rear brake every year, more if you ride a lot of miles/year, to minimize the chance of a problem.
 

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Its quite crazy what a new ABS module/pump costs for the 2012, even 2nd hand its almost $900.

Does anyone know if there are other options .. other Suzuki models that will fit?

Thanks.
 
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