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Discussion Starter #1
Had no rear brake and a "frozen" rear brake pedal so suzuki mechanic dismantled, cleaned, and reinstalled master cylinder and rear brake caliper then replaced with new fluid. Upon bleeding the brake system we noticed that the master cylinder was sending pressurized brake fluid to the ABS system but no matter how hard we pumped the pedal, no fluid was exiting from the ABS system located just above the rear tire. No brake fluid is reaching the brake calipers.
Fluid is entering the ABS but not exiting, so rear calipers cannot do their job.
ABS light on instrument panel is behaving normally, and turns off when the bike exceeds 5km/per hour as the manual says.
Front brakes are normal.

Dealer is stumped. Any ideas would be most welcome. Thank you.
 

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try a bypass

Bypass ABS unit, run a temporary pipe to rear brake caliper and see if that makes caliper operate, also check ABS to caliper pipe for blockage
 

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Sounds like crud in the line/ABS hydraulic unit. Get a syringe and tubing. Try to backflush new brake fluid through the rear caliper bleed nipple. Disconnect the master cylinder line, don't want any crud to go in there.
If that works finish bleeding. Ride and engage the ABS several times to get any crud in the ABS solenoid loose and replace/bleed with new fluid again.
 

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Stumped dealer, whudathunk?

Philippino dealers don't have much to work with? :confused:

Try another ABS unit.
 

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Stumped dealer, whudathunk?

Philippino dealers don't have much to work with? :confused:

Try another ABS unit.
Getting another ABS unit could take over a month here, usually ordered from Japan. It took 6 weeks for a 847AA R/R to arrive for my upgrade. Even oil filters can take that long, I order 2 at a time so I always have a spare.

Living in the Philippines I bought a service manual, required tools and do all maintenance on my own. My first bike here was a Suzuki 125cc and part of the purchase was free labor on scheduled maintenance. Their mechanic would use a 18" breaker bar to tighten the oil drain and yank so hard the bike would spin some on the center stand. Luckily the bolt and threads were steel, would have stripped out on an aluminum case like the DL650. And their head Suzuki "trained" mechanic saying the clutch would definitely slip using synthetic oil!
 

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I doubt if the ABS unit is involved. A stuck piston, master cylinder problem or clogged hose is more likely.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you everyone for your suggestions. Okidave, it is frustrating indeed for us here because the level of after market support is what it is. Good thing you do your maintenance yourself. Greywolf, thanks for your advice, I also doubt that it is the abs unit itself because I havent heard any issues about it and it is behaving normally on the instrument panel. However, when the brake pedal is pumped, fluid does enter the abs, but does not exit to feed the rear caliper.

The suzuki mechanic here suspects that the master cylinder is at fault, because even if it is pumping brake fluid, it may not be creating enough pressure.
 

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The suzuki mechanic here suspects that the master cylinder is at fault, because even if it is pumping brake fluid, it may not be creating enough pressure.[/QUOTE]
Doesn't take that much pressure to push thorough to the caliper. Is the bleeder screw on the caliper open? Try removing the bleeder screw. Try going backwards from the caliper bleed screw using a syringe as I suggested before, disconnecting/loosening connections along the way to the ABS unit find the blockage.
 

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Sound like the mechanic wants to change parts till he finds/fixes the problem. Try to figure out the problem and fix it.
okidave has the right idea.
 

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When did you notice the pedal stuck? Was the bike stored awhile and am breaking it out? Overnight, rode it yesterday? Any brake related work to the bike lately?

So this is what I am understanding. The pedal is "frozen" (so it sounds like it is pumping up). Fluid is pumping out of the master cylinder but not flowing through the ABS. You can drive the bike but no rear brake.

Like mentioned before, something is blocking the fluid in the ABS (back flow through the ABS or vacuum the supply side). If the fluid is going through the ABS, the brake line is blocked or the caliper piston stuck (try bleeding the caliper to see if there is pressure).

My rear brake works with or without power (2011 ABS), unless it is different on a 2012, I can't see any electrical problem with the ABS.

Just my $0.02
 

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What do you mean by frozen pedal. Does it not return or can it not be moved? The pedal should be able to move up and down even if there is a problem in the rest of the system. Take the pedal off and grease the pivot. If the pedal can be moved easily when disconnected from the master cylinder the pedal is okay. Then reconnect pedal. Disconnect #24 from the ABS unit. If the pedal movement pumps fluid through #24 twice using two pedal strokes, it's okay to there. If it only works on one stroke, the master cylinder is not returning. Reconnect #24. Then disconnect #25 from the ABS unit. If pumping the pedal does not pump fluid out of the ABS unit, you have the first case of an ABS unit problem like that I've ever heard of. If fluid is pumping out of there, disconnect #25 from the caliper. By now you should get the idea. Keep checking each part in the system to discover what is preventing the fluid from flowing.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mechanic installed a temporary line from the master cylinder to the rear caliper, bypassing the abs unit. Now the rear brakes are working up to the point of locking the rear wheel if you want, since the abs is not involved. Thanks okidave and mike ford, this is exactly what you suggested. It points to a clog/blockage in the abs unit, rather than a defective abs unit, since front brakes and abs instrument panel lights are still normal. We will try to backflush using the master cylinder itself, by reversing the connections to the abs, or by using an air compressor, or a syringe as okidave suggests. We are focusing on a clogged abs unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Greywolf and Mikeys, just saw your posts after my last one. Thanks. Will get back to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When I noticed the problem, the rear brakes would work intermittently at first. After parking the bike for about a week or two, if you could depress the pedal, the brakes would be normal, but at times the pedal just wouldn't budge. At this point applying more pressure would free up the pedal and the brakes would be normal again. Recently though, the pedal wouldn't budge no matter what down pressure you applied. Of course, I did not force it.
The mechanic tried to bleed the brakes, then dismantled and reassembled the rear caliper and the master cylinder replacing the fluid. After this, fluid would reach #24(in Greywolf's diagram) by pumping the pedal, and therefore be entering into the abs unit. But, fluid would not exit out of the abs and into #25. Mechanic also installed a "bypass" brake line from the master cylinder to the caliper to isolate the abs. With this bypass line installed I now have my rear brakes working to the point of even locking up the wheel if you want.
This leads us to conclude that it is a blocked/clogged abs unit. Any more suggestions as to how to perform the backflush/declogging?
My 2012 DL650 was acquired brand new back in March 2012 and has 31,000kms on it. I maintain it religiously, keep it clean and don't "abuse" it. At the same time I don't think I'm babying it either. Im somewhat depressed that this seems to be the first time anyone has brought up an abs problem on this model. :frown2:
 

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You have figured it out! I agree that something is blocking the flow in the ABS. The ABS is not serviceable and do not know how it works (no breakdown available). That being said, I believe it releases pressure when it senses the wheel is not turning. Not blocking pressure.

I looked at my 11' and cannot see much without taking things loose. On lines 24 & 25, do they have the same size threads on the ABS side? If so, I would attach the line from the master cyl to the port which would be the output side and try pumping some fluid backwards thru the ABS. Maybe try a small vacuum pump and see if it clears (like the brake bleeder kind). I would be careful of compressed air, turn down the pressure if you try it. Or you can drive it without rear ABS.
 

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If you decide to ride without the rear ABS, I would pull the 2 ABS fuses. Having only ABS on the front it may not work properly, as you still have input from the rear sensor.
 

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WOW the ABS Hydraulic Unit is expensive, $1,200-$1,400 USD new, ~$500 USD used from ebay. Part number is 55610-11J00 (for 2012-2013) or 55610-11J01 (for 2014-2015). Either one should work? Greywolf?

R-2, Hope you're able to clear out the obstruction.
 

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I'm not so sure if either would work for the other.

Edit. Given a new look, I would be shocked if the specs for both were not identical
 
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