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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to jump on this and I will be looking at other posts for my issues but so many are from so many years ago and I am new to the Strom, so here goes, but I just purchased a 2007 DL1000(6 days ago). has 27K on it.. I am the third owner. the day after I bought it.. decided to take it for a ride. 4hrs no big deal, didnt notice too much, the ride was fine except for one part on the way home where it had trouble starting, but it managed alright.

decided that based on the lack of information from the previous owner about issues or maintenance , that I should start fresh and look at all the usual things, air box , spark, oil, chain, chain... etc. replaced and updated all those things, it needed plugs (purchased some, low temp was all that was available here in AK) , found a destroyed rear bearing, replaced that, front fork seal is going, parts are coming for that. so I figured this thing had been run kinda hard.

so parts replaced, I am feeling better. go for a ride.. the issues creep in. The first hour to 2 are great.. suddenly, as I am coming down in gears to stop.. engine sputters, back fires and stop... start it, runs... then stops.. start it again, throttle it it runs so long as im above 3K. shit... drive it to gas station... needed gas anyway, let it sit, put the higher octane in it.. start it up, no issues the whole way home. (ghost in the shell? maybe a dirty tank or fuel filter?) next day, start it and its running fine. 1 hour into the ride, same issue creeps in.. sputters , feels like its not firing unless I'm at 4k RPM and even then its still running rough.

so in my case cold start and idle are great, its only after it heats up and is ridden for awhile(1 to 2 hrs min) does this issue present itself. any ideas would be helpful. why is it waiting so long to not run? wouldn't a vacuum line or something connected to the TB be immediate on start up? what would be happening mid ride to make it just suddenly feel like its not getting fire unless I run the throttle at high RPM

was this perhaps already an issue before I owned it? it did have one starting issue before I did any maintenance on it. was I just lucky? or was it something I did after I replaced parts? if I did cross or mess with hoses around the air box, wouldn't I notice it right away on start up into idle? could it be low temp spark plug? air temps here are in the 60's to 70's. I don't think that should be an issue.

thanks in advance all.
 

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Hmmm, hard to say with an intermittent problem - try checking for dirty fuel filters and possibly some debris in your gas tank. After that you might have to bring it back to a dealership and have them run a trouble code scan.
 

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I’m guessing that you don’t have a FI light illuminated, since you didn’t mention it. That eliminates most electrical issues, and as you said, if it were a vacuum issue it would happen right away. I have an 02 dl1000 with similar mileage and was amazed when I pulled the fuel pump how bad the tank looked inside after sitting for a few years. The filter sock was essentially sitting in a pile of rusty mud and I was amazed it ran at all. So my suggestion would be to either check your fuel flow, or just yank the pump assembly, change or flush the sock filter and do the fuel filter bypass mod.

One other thing, and this would be last on my list, but I had a fuel injected car that would not start unless it was cold. I could drive it and it would be fine, no issues, but if I stopped and tried to start it again within the next 10-15mins it wouldn’t start. It ended up being the fuel pump. I assume that the windings in the pump were going bad and after a period of operation, they would heat up causing higher resistance and thus poor operation/fuel flow. This is really an odd one and I would definitely check out the tank and fuel filter situation first, but if all that is good, it might be worth a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmmm, hard to say with an intermittent problem - try checking for dirty fuel filters and possibly some debris in your gas tank. After that you might have to bring it back to a dealership and have them run a trouble code scan.
I will look into the trouble code. The FI light doesnt come on though when this issue is happening.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
View attachment 274430
This was what came out of my fuel tank 😳😳😳

holy smokes, that's a mess. So I pulled the tank and the pump after the suggestions. and here is the pump, but youre gonna laugh, I didnt pull the filter, I was a little unsure of my small motor pulling apart skills lol... but that said the inside of the tank looked pretty clean. I did order filters for it and I guess I will go ahead and pull the tank again and follow some Youtube videos on taking apart the pump.
274484
 

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Discussion Starter #7
just looking inside under the cap, and in the tank, I got the impression that things looked pretty clean. That said, I should see if the filter looks the same.
 

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just looking inside under the cap, and in the tank, I got the impression that things looked pretty clean. That said, I should see if the filter looks the same.
I agree, that looks much better than mine did. To get it apart you’ll need to take the sending unit/float off (two screws), then take a screw off on either side of the little bars that come up along the sides of the pump. There are three ring terminals that are held on with a nut, washer and two lock washers for the wiring. Due to a swollen o-ring I had to pull pretty hard to get mine apart, but that should be it. I’m be waiting on O-rings that I ordered so if you need any pictures, my pump is still out.
 

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Also remember, you’ll be able to see the strainer/sock filter but not the internal high pressure filter that’s housed in the plastic piece. The only way to check that is by checking the volume of fuel flow in a given time. I can’t remember the spec, but it’s in the manual and also on the forum.
 

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Welcome to owning a Gen 1 DL 1000! I suspect there is more than one thing going on. First would be that I would bet money one or both throttle body to cylinder boots are loose! Next I suspect the Throttle Position Sensor is either way out of adjustment....or more likely needing replaced. Common issues both of these. Beyond that you can fine tune by setting the tps to open at 1700-1800 rpm and assuming you have the throttle body boots in place do a proper throttle body synchronization. Then set idle to 1300. That is a baseline to get SOME of the fueling issues on these bikes fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Welcome to owning a Gen 1 DL 1000! I suspect there is more than one thing going on. First would be that I would bet money one or both throttle body to cylinder boots are loose! Next I suspect the Throttle Position Sensor is either way out of adjustment....or more likely needing replaced. Common issues both of these. Beyond that you can fine tune by setting the tps to open at 1700-1800 rpm and assuming you have the throttle body boots in place do a proper throttle body synchronization. Then set idle to 1300. That is a baseline to get SOME of the fueling issues on these bikes fixed.
thanks for the suggestion and the post, so, why do you think that if its on or both of those issues you described, that its waiting til 1 to 2 hours into a ride? wouldn't just be misaligned from the moment of start up? and not run or idle right.. because each time I start it, its purring like a kitten and rides well..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Also remember, you’ll be able to see the strainer/sock filter but not the internal high pressure filter that’s housed in the plastic piece. The only way to check that is by checking the volume of fuel flow in a given time. I can’t remember the spec, but it’s in the manual and also on the forum.

thats a whole new thing to me... how do you measure the flow? is there a procedure where I dont light myself on fire?
 

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On the throttle bodies you said it started after a couple hours, not that it started every time after 2 hours. Since you just got the bike, it reads like it started suddenly and still does it. Which is exactly how a popped throttle boot can act.

The fact that it acts up after being run for a while ( other than the throttle body issues ) points directly to the Throttle Position Sensor. These don't tend to act up until they become heat soaked.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
On the throttle bodies you said it started after a couple hours, not that it started every time after 2 hours. Since you just got the bike, it reads like it started suddenly and still does it. Which is exactly how a popped throttle boot can act.

The fact that it acts up after being run for a while ( other than the throttle body issues ) points directly to the Throttle Position Sensor. These don't tend to act up until they become heat soaked.
you brought up a really good point, and I'm glad you did. when I was out and this happened for the first time, I think I was like anyone in diagnose mode, during that process, Id come back to the house, think about the issues, look at stuff and in the mean time its cooling off. start the bike, everything is fine and running , and when I changed up to the higher octane gas, and took a few shorter rides in between just to test out if there were issues and nothing happened I began to wonder if there was a problem as there was a break in between longer 1-2hr plus rides as a few days transpired in between and I think that might be why it reads that way. but the total point is, each time the 1-2hour rides happened the issue occurred.

So on that note, a new TPS sensor just to eliminate the possibility be the best option.. just screw it and do it. As for the popped throttle boot, how can I see that
 

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While you are in there doing the TPS, simply inspect where the boots connect between the throttle bodies and cylinder head. Usually they don't look "out of place" but on closer inspection they are not fully seated. There can be an ever so slight crack showing and that is more than enough to cause a lot of problems. Use the google search on the forum pages, it actually searches for stuff here better than a standard google. There is a lot of info on how to reseat them.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
While you are in there doing the TPS, simply inspect where the boots connect between the throttle bodies and cylinder head. Usually they don't look "out of place" but on closer inspection they are not fully seated. There can be an ever so slight crack showing and that is more than enough to cause a lot of problems. Use the google search on the forum pages, it actually searches for stuff here better than a standard google. There is a lot of info on how to reseat them.
great information thanks a bunch for your help on this. I will definitely be looking into it.
 
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