StromTrooper banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,496 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My riding is 95% road and 5% dirt roads, nothing too crazy off road for me. I weigh 230 without my gear and rarely ride 2 up. I had been questioning my abilities as a MC rider, couldn't hold a good line in the twisties and it seemed to be bouncy and soft. I ordered Race tech 1.0 springs and Gold Valve Cartridge Emulators, along with an Elka 3 way with hydraulic preload. I welded up the rebound hole in the damper rod and I used the blue emulator spring set at 3 turns, along with 20 weight fork oil. I installed the Elka just as it came from the factory. I rode it around town and in some local twisties and all I can say is WOW! I DO know how to ride a motorcycle! In the twisties I can hold the bike along the white line with no problems, bumps and dips don't unnerve me in the corners anymore. Front braking while in the turns also gives no drama. My rebound is a little slow, if I hit a speed bump at 20 MPH or more the tire doesn't rebound fast enough to keep contact with the pavement. I plan to switch to 15 weight oil to remedy, but I will have to crank the blue spring a little tighter to compensate for the lighter oil. Compression dampening seems to be fine at this setting though with the 20 weight. Settings for the Elka seem fine on the road, so I didn't touch them.
I recently went on a LONG one day ride, 750 miles, so I go to see how it handled on the open road. I had my topcase and Pelicans on for this trip. I was usually running at 80 to 85 MPH. On the road, everything is good with this setup, very very happy with it. Most of the time I was resting one arm or the other, thanks to my throttle stop. I hit some pretty big bumps/dips on the highway with only one arm at a time on the bars, and once my throttle lock even disengaged at that speed:jawdrop: (I'll make sure that thing is engaged all the way from now on, I can guarantee that) With all that stuff happening with me resting my arms, there was no drama at all, no change in direction, no pucker moments, NOTHING! Even gusts of wind were easier to handle. I am completely happy with the money I spent, no regrets.:mrgreen: If you can afford to do it, then just do it. I did ride the bike with just the front done for about 50 miles and I can say is makes a marked improvement over stock suspension.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
609 Posts
Very nice. I ahve pretty much all the same stuff either ready to go on or on its way. Right now I am only waiting on the Elka shock. For cuiosity sake, why do you weld the rebound hole? also what hole is this in reference? in the race techs or the stock components.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,496 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
A few others have welded the rebound hole, so I followed suit. It's in the stock damper rod
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
It was what I suspected the "Strom suspension seemed pretty bad and it is on my first todo list. I wonder if the complaints with some tires may be due in fact to the suspension? Why 20 wt? I have never tried it most of the time 10-15 depending on the bike. I love race tech and the 1.0 is what use most of the time they are great!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,496 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
It was what I suspected the "Strom suspension seemed pretty bad and it is on my first todo list. I wonder if the complaints with some tires may be due in fact to the suspension? Why 20 wt? I have never tried it most of the time 10-15 depending on the bike. I love race tech and the 1.0 is what use most of the time they are great!
After reading pages upon pages of suspension posts, both here and at ADV I was convinced to give it a try. The thought is that the viscosity is the way to control rebound dampening on these damper rod style forks. The emulator handles all the compression dampening. if I hadn't welded up the rebound hole it may have been fine. The next time I have it apart I may just drill the hole back in it and see how it fares.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
703 Posts
Nice review Highveelocity. I changed out my springs a short while ago. I went with Racetech .9, as Blair at SV said the Racetech is a pretty stiff spring. I combined them with the gold valve emulators and 15wt oil. Their is 1.5 turns on the emulator spring. I weigh about 230 as well. I have not done the rear yet, but I have noticed an incredible improvement in handling. Oh, and I also added a superbrace as well. All I can say is I wish I had done it sooner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,496 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I should also add that the brake dive went away and the pogo sticking while going through the gears went away:hurray:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,496 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Did you drill out the existing compression holes in the bottom of the damper rod??
No, I add the 4 more compression holes as required by the Gold Valve instructions
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
After reading pages upon pages of suspension posts, both here and at ADV I was convinced to give it a try. The thought is that the viscosity is the way to control rebound dampening on these damper rod style forks. The emulator handles all the compression dampening. if I hadn't welded up the rebound hole it may have been fine. The next time I have it apart I may just drill the hole back in it and see how it fares.

I welded up the hole and then drilled a new one with 1/2 the area of the original. I'm using the same Emulators but with .9 springs,and my oil is 10w20 hydraulic oil for tractor/industrial use.It works great and the rebound is just right in my opinion.

Terry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,496 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I welded up the hole and then drilled a new one with 1/2 the area of the original. I'm using the same Emulators but with .9 springs,and my oil is 10w20 hydraulic oil for tractor/industrial use.It works great and the rebound is just right in my opinion.

Terry
I'm too tired to do the math:biggrinjester:How big does the hole have to be to be half the area of the original hole?
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top