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I just picked up my well-farkled 2008 DL650 yesterday and already I'm noticing some issues. The bike has every upgrade I thought I could want including bar-back risers for the handlebars which I imagined would give me a more upright posture (which I want) but instead I'm getting numb hands and some wrist pain from the angle. I'm guessing these are the stock bars w/ an obviously nonstock riser, but I think I need something that pulls back a bit more - I'm leaning forward a tad bit which is likely putting pressures on my wrist they've never experienced. Given that my last bike was an old mid-size tourer (81 Honda Silverwing 500, think a naked baby Goldwing) with what basically equated to (stock) miniature ape-hangers, this sitting position is new for my wrists. My boyfriend also pointed out that if I do get bigger bars, I'm going to need a bunch of new cables also as these are about to their limit.

Should I give my wrist some time to acclimate in the hopes it'll get better (I don't think that's going to happen, this wrist has been giving me trouble at work but the Strom is the first bike I've felt it on)? It's paining me on the inside top of my left (clutch) hand. Any thoughts on more pull-backy bars I can trade up to? Advice or pictures would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 

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Living the Stereotype
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I've got the Rox 2" risers.

They have two adjustment points so that you could have 2" of pullback and no rise, vise versa or somewhere between.



The stack bars have a fair amount of bend back in them, too which some owners find objectionable. ATV bars are a common fix for this.

Also, carving or stuffing the seat for a more ergonomic "pocket" could help, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The bike came with a Sargent seat so it's pretty ergonomic already. I really like those risers - I'd probably paint them black to go with everything else but it's definitely a great idea! How much do they cost, and do you have a part number?
 

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I have a general rule that I don't make any changes to a bike until I've got about 1000 miles on it. I'm coming from a different direction than you having ridden sport-touring rides with a semi-sport riding position; the Wee feels like sitting straight up to me and I can't imagine ever putting risers on one or I'd feel like I was riding a cruiser. Give yourself some time to adjust, I'd even suggest taking off your risers for a while, you may be surprised that the stock riding position could be more comfortable than with the risers on.
 

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I have wrist and shoulder pain on just about every single bike, atv whatever i ever own. Took me a while to figure it out but it was caused by the "pullback" of the bars. I needed straighter bars(less pullback). Like dirtbike handlebars. Then get your bars back closer to you with ROX risers like posted above. Might not be your problem.. but sounds like it may be.

What i used to tell what my wrists and shoulders needed: Ride till your in pain then place your hands on top of the drip and move it around till your pain goes away. wider, different angles etc...

You may not guess the right height, pullback etc.. the first time. So i bought some cheap $20 steel atv/dirtbike handlebars to start just to get if they were the right "feel". You can cut the metal crossbar out of them for temporary use. So then if you guess wrong, your only out $20. Once you find the right ones.. get its specs and then you can buy higher quaility ones if you want.

Tip: The ROX risers are great and allow SO much adjustability!!
Those ROX risers are now available in a verson that accepts 7/8" bars and 1 1/8" bars. I'd pay the little extra and get those so you can always use the risers with any bars.. on any bike etc...

I now keep my handlbars when i sell my bikes or atv's and just transplant them to my new stuff.
 

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BTDT.

1. Very small adjustments can matter a lot. Try moving the bar up or back an inch at a time with a few hundred miles in between.

2. Crampbusters on both sides are golden.
 

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Bigger grips can help too. Grip Puppies or Pro-Grip 714s are popular. See this for one example.
 

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The bike came with a Sargent seat so it's pretty ergonomic already. I really like those risers - I'd probably paint them black to go with everything else but it's definitely a great idea! How much do they cost, and do you have a part number?
Here's a link to the website:

http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showitems.cgi?subcat_id=268

The part number is 3R-P2SS it's a universal part for 7/8" diameter bars. $80.00.

Like you I had wrist issues with the bike from the get-go. After about a year I decided to get the risers and they went away. I keep them mostly vertical with a slight pull back.
 

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I agree with Greywolf give the grip puppies a try the major reason IMO, is holding the bar too tight. Cruise control or the various cramp throttle controls help some, but I don't like them myself.
 

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You might like to try a set of bars with much less pullback - superbike or supermoto style. Sounds odd after being used to bars with a lot of pullback like cruisers, but it worked for me. I was used to old style British and BMW K-RS bars; low, narrow and with a lot more pullback than the Strom bars and eventually found a similar set to fit that had enough rise to clear the Strom tank. They were worse than the standard ones. The only other bars I could find locally were slightly lower than the standards but a lot straighter - about 3" pullback - and they are perfect. Try the standard bars without the risers for a while. You could also rotate the clutch and brake lever mounts around a bit to give your hands a more natural pull on the controls. Mine were canted far too low and caused a bit of tendon strain.
 

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Get a Crampbuster. I can do about 50 miles without mine and not have a little throttle pain, but with I'm good for at least 900 miles ;)
 

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You might like to try a set of bars with much less pullback - superbike or supermoto style. Sounds odd after being used to bars with a lot of pullback like cruisers, but it worked for me. I was used to old style British and BMW K-RS bars; low, narrow and with a lot more pullback than the Strom bars and eventually found a similar set to fit that had enough rise to clear the Strom tank. They were worse than the standard ones. The only other bars I could find locally were slightly lower than the standards but a lot straighter - about 3" pullback - and they are perfect. Try the standard bars without the risers for a while. You could also rotate the clutch and brake lever mounts around a bit to give your hands a more natural pull on the controls. Mine were canted far too low and caused a bit of tendon strain.
+1, I think you should try bars with less pullback. ProTaper SE ATV mid or high are popular choices. Note that the SE stands for 7/8" which is that size that will fit in standard handlebar clamps.
 

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I agree with Greywolf give the grip puppies a try the major reason IMO, is holding the bar too tight.
Wrist pain or not, grip puppies are really nice to dampen any vibration and make the grips bigger.

I often find myself gripping on too tight for whatever reason. I also find myself putting weight on my hands/wrists leaning forward. If I correct myself, lossen my grip, get a bend in my elbows, I find myself much more comfortable, even if it is leaning slightly forward. I've also noticed that my stock seat is much more comfortable like this as well.

YMMV.
 

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well

I have grip puppies on the Vee and on the Burgman and they make a difference for me. I get neuropothy in my hands pretty quickly and the grip puppies seem to help with that. A throttle lock or a wrist rest for the right hand grip seems to help me a lot also in that I don't have to squeeze the grip but can just rest my hand on it.

One other item that has made my Vee more comfy is the road pegs that are clamped on the crash bars. Gives me a new position if I want it and that changes how it all fits together.

Flint
 

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I agree. Tho, forget the ATV Hi bend. They're pullback is as much or more than the stock bars. I bought those initially and tried them. Then ended up with the mid bend, which are 1" less pullback. Coupled with risers/bar backs seems to be the ticket.

+1, I think you should try bars with less pullback. ProTaper SE ATV mid or high are popular choices. Note that the SE stands for 7/8" which is that size that will fit in standard handlebar clamps.
 

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This might be off, but have you considered it might be related to the angle that your clutch lever is at rather than the angle/pullback of the bars? The clutch lever should be at an angle that lets you pull it with your wrist aligned with your forearm. If you have to twist your wrist to get your fingers in position to pull the clutch lever (whether twisting your wrist up or down), that's a recipe for wrist pain and you should rotate the lever on the handlebar to a different angle.

I might be off. Just thought it worth asking.
 

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I'm late to the thread, but I had the same problem (like others) and went with both the 2" Rox Risers Elite and the Pro Taper Raptor bars. I have not had the wrist pain since this combination. The best part about the Rox Risers is that they are for 1 1/8" and come with 7/8" spacers so you can try them out on your stock bars first. You are open to a wide range of bars to choose from at this point.

A note on the risers and new bar, keep in mind cable & hose lengths will be at their max. I wound up replacing my clutch & brake lines (I've got a vee, you won't have hydraulic clutch) and have my electric cables at their max. Should I go with a longer riser, I need to replace my throttle cables & get the wiring extensions from Jim at Eastern Beaver.
 
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