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New sprockets for the 800

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12K views 65 replies 21 participants last post by  summerjim  
#1 ·
After riding a few hundred miles, exclusively offroad this weekend, I'm going to try out swapping the front sprocket. The bike is near perfect but I'd like to utilize the clutch far less in 1st and 2nd gears. 1st is too tall to be a good creeper gear.

My understanding is we have a 17 tooth stock front. I ordered both a 16 and a 15 and will try them out and report back with findings.

I'm pretty sure the change won't affect the odometer or speedometer due to the readings coming off the wheels but may be wrong on that.

Any input?
 
#34 ·
I just installed the 16T tonight.
Didn’t want to go 15T because I spend more time on the road, but I would like a little more low end grunt on the gravel/dirt.
Install was fairly elementary. The biggest pain was getting the cover bolts in straight. They kept getting hung up after a couple turns and I didn’t want to risk cross threading. It took a few tries but they finally got in line.
 
#35 ·
I'm interested to see how you like the change. Going to a 15t was a huge change that worked perfectly for my application. I suspect the 16t is going to be well received for yours.

Did you just do the cover bolts or did you remove the peg assembly bolts as well?
 
#36 ·
I'm interested to see how you like the change. Going to a 15t was a huge change that worked perfectly for my application. I suspect the 16t is going to be well received for yours.

Did you just do the cover bolts or did you remove the peg assembly bolts as well?
Thankfully I saw your latest post where you updated the process. That worked perfectly. 3 bolts + loosening up the rear axle and voila.
 
#37 ·
That’s probably the best $15 you can spend on this bike. The difference with 16T is immediately noticeable; the gears aren’t as tall, quicker throttle response, and I believe the engine runs smoother. I did some dirt/gravel roads in B mode (my go-to) and I felt like I could go faster. Then I put it in A mode and breaking the back end free was effortless, yet still controllable.

This was a good upgrade.
 
#40 ·
Installed my 16 tooth front sprocket last night. Thank you BRTJ! The bike really feels much better, it's seems like this is how the gearing should have come to begin with. Pulls stronger from down low and overall feels more exciting. It will also chug along in first with no throttle at 7 mph, which is nice for off road. Less clutch work in the tight stuff. With the 17 tooth it would chug along at 9-10 mph. Worthwhile modification in my opinion.
 
#42 ·
Now that I'm past the 1000 mile mark, the 17T front sprocket is fine for me. But because the stock bike is so quiet, the chain noise coming from the front sprocket is very noticeable. Surprised to find out Suzuki don't use a rubber damped front sprocket. Just ordered a JT 17T with the damping ring to see if it quiets things down
 
#43 ·
Nice! Yeah the 17t is great for most people, I believe. The 16 and 15 are for those that are trying to stay mostly dirt/gravel. Even so, it only really helps in the first 2 gears where one is trying to do slower speed stuff without always being on the clutch. After that, it's mostly the same. Definitely pulls harder but stock was just as fun as 15t. The rubber damped quieted mine down substantially.
 
#45 ·
I went the opposite direction with my sprocket swap. I figured out that Tenere 700 rear sprocket fit the 800DE. Primary Drive (RMATVMC) makes a 47 tooth sprocket for the T7. After the swap, I would never go back to factory for my riding. The taller gearing effectively spreads the gears out so you don’t need to shift as often, which is great with a torque rich engine like the 800 has. The swap made cruising at 65 to 70 mph (gps verified) so much more comfortable.

If I rode exclusively on trails, I wouldn’t have a 500 lb. bike anyway. The taller gearing is wonderful on gravel roads and fire roads and faster two track. My mpg went slightly up.

Anyway, there are options for gearing up for those so inclined.
 
#49 ·
Tiggleswerth

I did the same research as yours and I'm almost convinced to make the same decision. It is very good to know that worked exactly like I imagine.
I'm going a little further, my idea is, in addition to lower the gearing to 47, swap the ugly silver rear sprocket to a black one, or a Supersprox Stealth gold and black, that will match the color scheme even more. 👍🏻
 
#52 ·
@pvm4792, If I have it correct, you are proposing in dropping from a 50 tooth rear to a 41 tooth rear on your 800? I would say that 3 teeth off the rear sprocket would be better starting option, that dropping a full 9 teeth. As far as I have read, the R:JTR1876 sprocket sizes range from 42 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 50 tooth, so I'm not sure which 41 tooth you have in mind.
Open to correction, but it is also my understanding that the rear sprocket to hub diameter (mounting) is smaller than that of the DL650 and DL1000 models.

With your proposed 17F/41R setup, you would most likely need to shorten the chain length. With only a 3 tooth drop on the rear sprocket, you may get away without having to shorten the stock chain.

When I went from a 15/47 to a 16/42 on my 1st gen Wee, I found that I had to slip the clutch a lot more when taking off on any slight incline vs take off on a level surface. I ended up fitting a 16/45 combination on the Wee that I used for long distance riding, however the 16/45 combo wasn't ideal, especially in an area with hills in the routes that I ride. Yes, your 800 has a bit more torque / power, but not that much more than the Wee.

Have a look on Gearing Commander - Motorcycle Speed and Drive Train Calculator v7 for a better idea of gear ratios. Enter your proposed gearing and compare the listed info for a more informed decission and decide for yourself.
 
#53 ·
The gearing commander needs more information than I have to give it to get out what I want . So I ride 30% dirt and 70% road knowing that after the newness gets scratched and cracked off i will do more dirt . But it is so dam good looking now that it is hard to treat the bike like that . Yet. So I’m glad everyone else has been working on this issue I was out today and first is tall . I want a new rear and front sprocket so I’m thinking a 16 front and then ? For the back . I would like to have a color matched sprocket on the back and is the stock chain a quality one or should I consider a higher grade one while I’m chang out the sprockets ?
 
#55 ·
So after about 34,000km of being ignored and poorly maintained, my chain lost 23 rollers... I figured it was time to change chain and sprockets.

I bought the rubber damped 17t JT sprocket that was advised above.

I had a hard time finding a 50T sprocket in stock anywhere and I didn't want to wait. I found a 47T supersprox on Amazon so I went with that.

I installed it a few days ago and have since ridden about 60km. The 47T sprocket is fine for traffic. I was in a traffic jam on the highway, stop and go was fine. With the combo of the rubber damped front sprocket and the lower rpm from 47T sprocket, and also from using a chain which is not missing 23 rollers, the bike feels smoooooth. I like that second gear is a bit taller now. I could see how it wouldn't be as good for offroad when you need to go really slow. Minimum speed with the clutch out is about 10-15kmhr.
 
#60 ·
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I have the RE that's set up for touring and changed to 18/47.

At 80mph (indicated not GPS) I'm at about 4900rpm.

I can't tell a difference in the lower gears (especially in A mode using the QS) but I don't do much stop and go riding in traffic.

The 18t is a vortex for the gsx-8r(s) and the 47 is the primary drive for the T7 from RMATV.

There's enough room to get my finger between the chain and the case up front.

I did not have to do anything to the chain. There are 9 tic marks for chain adjustment and I went from the 4th mark to the 6th.

The pics are of the model front sprocket, the T7 sprocket over the stock rear, and my fat finger between the front chain and engine.
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