StromTrooper banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,600 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I "finally" got around to ordering and installing some RaceTech .95 "straight rate" weight springs with Spectro 10wt fork oil. It's a real easy thing to do, I am intimidated by suspension stuff and had zero issues. I opted to not go with any kind of additional valving at this point, as I wanted to see the performance and ride with appropriate spring weight and proper weight fresh oil first. Be sure to drain all of the old oil out, I recommend using a bit of fresh fork oil to help clean out the forks internals as well. The new straight rate springs which I received were approx 7 inches shorter than the stock .65 progressive pieces of crap, so I needed to cut "2" 230mm pieces of the PVC spacers included in the kit. Due to the MUCH stiffer springs, I had a hard time getting the fork cap screwed back on. I carefully installed each fork back into the clamps/yoke and only tightened the top triple tree bolt. I noticed what was causing much of my issue once I saw some galling on the top of the PVC spacer, the preload adjustment screw has a cotter pin which kept binding on the much thicker walled PVC spacer compared to the thinner walled metal OEM spacer. I took off the cotter pin and was then able to pretty easily get the top cap back on with the help of the triple tree clamp as a holding parter. :smile2:

After buttoning everything back up and torquing to specs, I went out for a quick ride.......wow the difference right away was staggering. Not at all harsh like I was expecting when hitting expansion joints and such, and the previous horrendous nose dive from hard braking is totally gone. I got to go out for a brisk twisty road 200 plus mile ride the next day with some rough gravel roads included, and I am left very impressed with the feel and performance of the new front suspension. I might upgrade to the fully adjustable valving someday, but right now the improvement over the weak stock springs is drastic. I recommend not going with progressive wound springs, go with RaceTech or Sonic straight rate springs instead. This is one of those mods which......you don't know till you know, just how under-sprung the stock suspension is if you are over 160 pounds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
402 Posts
Big B, I used the same springs on the front forks of my Vee, and had the same reaction!! I really really really like that the nose dive from braking is gone. I even realized that the front wobble I used to experience passing tractor trailers on the interstate is gone. The front end is solid. (Now I'm trying to figure out what rate spring to use for the rear DIY spring replacement/installation).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,476 Posts
"2" 230mm pieces"

Roughly 9 inches?
So you pulled the forks and up ended them for the drain and rinse?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,600 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
"2" 230mm pieces"

Roughly 9 inches?
So you pulled the forks and up ended them for the drain and rinse?
Yeah totally pulled forks off, drained all old fluid out by pumping and hanging, visually inspected the seals, installed everything minus the pvc spacers into the fork clamps, then used the fork clamps to help me install the caps back on. The OEM metal spacer is "I believe" 100mm, Rich Desmond said on a post somewhere here on the forum, that with the RaceTech springs just cut "2" 230mm spacers and be done with it. If I end up installing the gold valves or similar, then I'll have to cut down the PVC spacers slightly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,045 Posts
The fork springs made a drastic difference for me as well! Well worth the money!

When I did my spacers I actually added an extra 25mm or so to add some additional preload and give the ability to adjust even further.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Thanks. This is my first post and the forum had provided me months of good read and research. This is my contribution from goodwill. The archive is more valuable than using FB. Thanks to richdesmond for him sharing the 230mm spacer tip.

I couldn't find a comprehensive thread on the installation and some information is scattered. This thread has probably one of the more complete tutorial.

Who really needs it? If you feel that your bike is like a pig , being fast but clumsy, You often overshot steep corners. When Moving off from lights, changing gears and hard braking will have a pogo effect.

Here is mine dl650a 2008. Im 84kg. Racetech reccomended 0.95 spring for all riding styles except commuting (0.90). I took 0.95 because I have some accessories on the bike.
Fork oil level 150mm. 5wt-15wt 500-525ml
Spacer required 230mm
Special tools required, 24mm deep socket.

Measurements
original hairpin Cotter pin(sold by wire size)
1.77mm thick(measure the "wire size")
27.65mm long
it is holding a nipple that is 7mm thick

i bought the 1.2mm hairstyle cotter pin(about 22mm long)

Provided pvc pipe
Internal diameter 26.5mm
Outer diameter 33mm
Thickness about 3.25mm

Original spacer
Length 105mm
Outer diameter 34mm

Original Washer
Thickness 1.5mm
Outer diameter 37mm
Inner diameter 28mm

Potential problem, hair pin cotter pin too big to fit in the provided pvc pipe by racetech

Simplest Solution, re-use the original spacer and use one washer provided by racetech(they provided 6) to put in between the old metal spacer and pvc pipe. For obvious reasons, the original spacer will be nearer to the fork cap. You need 230mm of spacer. Since the original spacer is 105mm and the washer is 1.5mm, Cut the provided pvc pipe 110mm.

Other solution, get a 1.2mm cotter pin. And cut 230mm as spacer for each leg.

I didn't change the fork oil yet (story for another day)and it works and feels so good.
I was afraid it might be too stiff but it's perfect! It's still Very plush. No problems with potholes or humps.

Here are some pics
268959

268960
268961
268962
268963
268964
268965


268958
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Very interesting . i had some racetech springs from a SV650 track bike. I replaced my strom with those and needed longer spacers. thanks
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top