[grantizzle]

see... another question....

oil...(i know... touchy subject)

can i use my go-to rotella?

i remember reading about an adapter that will allow me to use a car oil filter in leiu of a suzuki one. any truth to that or was i drunk? good idea or bad one?


The bike came with a throttle meister.... not sure how i feel about it since i like the looks and function of the OEM hand guards. are there any hand guards out there that will work with the TM or am i SOL?

 

[kenneth_moore]

At higher speeds it's about 6-10 miles off. Mine says 90 when the GPS says 82. Your call on the healer; the GPS works for me.

Your clutch has an issue called "chudder." There are people who claim to fix the problem. I think 05 was the last year that issue was widespread; my 07 doesn't have it.

Put up a for sale post on the Givi stuff. It's valuable and that's the best way for people to see it.

Don't use oil. It's bad for the bike.

Try the Kaoko throttle lock. It's a nice unit.

 

[YellowHat]

I disagree with the Chudder diagnosis.

The 1K has a hydraulic clutch (versys the 650's cable) and is kind of grabby. Practice a little, adjusting the speed with which you let it out, add a little more throttle and see if the action smooths out.

I speak from similar experience.

I have a Krako lock, good product. I like it.

Don't wast your money on a filter adapter, the Suzi filters work fine and are available at any dealer.

Don't know about the speedo healer, I don't really care exactly how fast I'm going, mileage is more important to me. I did add a GL Pro gear indicator with TRE. The bike does seem smoother on take off and overall throttle response.

Do you have any complains about your cruising speed now? if not why change gearing? Others have stronger opinions about that than me.

YH

 

[richw]

Some Walmarts have DL oil filters too.

I liked Rotella Diesel in the bike and it shifted well, seemed to be less vibration then the Mobil1 10x40 MC Oil

Clutch may be toast but wait until it has the new oil in her for a while. Change the clutch juice too.

 

[Gypsy]

One opinion

A couple of thoughts on your original post.
1) Read all the threads you can on subjects you have questions about. There is a weath of experience out there and some really helpful individuals.
2) As a general rule of thumb the speedo on the DL reads 10% high. It's not totally linear but close. Check against a GPS and memorize key RPMs corresponding with key speeds ie 60 mph, 65 mph 70 mph etc.
3) Yes! I'll bet 50 bucks that you have clutch chudder. Test as follows: Put light pressure on the clutch lever (allowing very slight slippage) while accelerating through the range where the vibration occcurs. If the vibration goes away it's clutch chudder. Do it once and you'll know. My guess is that it all smooths out once you hit 4K rpms. I bought a '06 DL 1000 with 5K miles on it in Feb of this year. After 4K miles the vibration became terrible. I sent my clutch basket to "realshelby" in TX for a complete modification in late April and its like having a nwe bike. The bike actually runs great in the 3500-4000 rpm range which I couldn't do without vibration before.
4) No! Don't change sprockets yet. You mentioned a concern for gas mileage. If you go to a 16T your milage will drop. Cruising at 65 as you mentioned will put you in the low to mid 3000 rpm range where the bike will run just fine and accelerate when asked to. I realize 45 mpg cruising at 65-85 mph on my 06 AFTER the clutch basket modification. Before the basket mod I couldn't run below 4000 rpm due to the vibration from the clutch and could only get 40-41 mpg. I've put a couple of thousand miles on the modified basket and it has made a world of difference in how I ride and shift. Unless your doing off road riding and want a lower first gear leave the sprockets alone.
5) Lastly, don't screw around messing with car filters. The filter on the Vstrom is in a vulnerable location and you want in tucked in tight in it's original location. I've used Rotella in a KLR I have but I recommend using a good semi-synthetic bike oil. More expensive but worth it in my book for this bike's engine.

 

[PTRider]

Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 is a full synthetic oil and works very well. Conventional Rotella 15W-40 works fine except maybe too thick in cooler winter areas.

To get the clutch chudder fixed, see posts by realshelby
http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl-1000-specific/53511-clutch-basket-mod-part-ii.html
and by svman
http://www.stromtrooper.com/group-b...ine-vibration-cure-clutch-basket-chudder.html

 

[happypuppy]

1. The speedo is off 7% in my case
2. Forget the Speedohealer. If you are getting a GPS use that or just figure it is a little low
3. the grinding... Check the chain first and look at the sprockets. the DL1000 can be noisy my2006 was. they test for Chudder by going up an an incline in a higher gear at low speed and load the engine. If it starts to buck at 3500 to 45500 pull in the clutch a touch and see if it goes away. if so look at the Chudder threads
4.There is a PNW for sale thread,list the stuff you don't want

Welcome to the Forum

 

[rconti]

This is on a Wee, but it sounds about the same.. I don't watch my speedo because at cruising speed it's nearer to 10mph off. 100 indicated is really only ~91 on the GPS. At my common 80mph gps cruise, the speedo is around 87. It doesn't approach 'only' a 5mph error until about 55mph real/60 indicated.

However, the month I owned the bike before buying the GPS, I bet I was much less likely to get a speeding ticket! :fineprint:

 

[CurDog]

A great fix for the inaccurate speedometer is a re-calibrated face plate made by a Strom owner in California.

Raceratb.com

I was a bit worried about how difficult it would be to replace the gauge face but he provides really good instructions and in the end it was no problem. Once I had it installed, I checked the speedo vs the GPS and it was perfect throughout the whole speed range (at least up to 100.) It is really nice to look down and know that the indicated speed is exactly what speed you are going. :thumbup:

Another bonus was that this fix only cost me $20 (plus $5 S&H) because I went with "seconds." The normal price is $40. I guess the difference with the "seconds" is that they have slightly thinner hash marks. When I received mine, I could hardly see the difference.

 

[grantizzle]

At higher speeds it's about 6-10 miles off. Mine says 90 when the GPS says 82. Your call on the healer; the GPS works for me.

Your clutch has an issue called "chudder." There are people who claim to fix the problem. I think 05 was the last year that issue was widespread; my 07 doesn't have it.

Put up a for sale post on the Givi stuff. It's valuable and that's the best way for people to see it.

Don't use oil. It's bad for the bike.

Try the Kaoko throttle lock. It's a nice unit.

I'm fearing that i have the chudder.... it sounds like a ducati when i'm at a stop with the bike in neutral and the clutch out. kind of a soft "clack clack."

I will put up a for sale ad for the GIVI stuff and the throttlemeister as soon as i hit 20 posts.

I disagree with the Chudder diagnosis.

The 1K has a hydraulic clutch (versys the 650's cable) and is kind of grabby. Practice a little, adjusting the speed with which you let it out, add a little more throttle and see if the action smooths out.

I speak from similar experience.

I have a Krako lock, good product. I like it.

Don't wast your money on a filter adapter, the Suzi filters work fine and are available at any dealer.

Don't know about the speedo healer, I don't really care exactly how fast I'm going, mileage is more important to me. I did add a GL Pro gear indicator with TRE. The bike does seem smoother on take off and overall throttle response.

Do you have any complains about your cruising speed now? if not why change gearing? Others have stronger opinions about that than me.

YH

the clutch gets real wonky if i'm taking off from a stop and rev it too high... it is real rough on take off.

RGR that on the oil adapter.

what is a TRE?

The one thing i don't like about my cruising speed is that sixth gear is almost unusable at the local freeway speeds. the RPM's are too low at 65mph in 6th gear. I usually cruise in 5th because of that. This weekend i am going to sync the throttle bodies, set the idle, and do a full tune up, hopefully that helps.

A couple of thoughts on your original post.
1) Read all the threads you can on subjects you have questions about. There is a weath of experience out there and some really helpful individuals.
2) As a general rule of thumb the speedo on the DL reads 10% high. It's not totally linear but close. Check against a GPS and memorize key RPMs corresponding with key speeds ie 60 mph, 65 mph 70 mph etc.
3) Yes! I'll bet 50 bucks that you have clutch chudder. Test as follows: Put light pressure on the clutch lever (allowing very slight slippage) while accelerating through the range where the vibration occcurs. If the vibration goes away it's clutch chudder. Do it once and you'll know. My guess is that it all smooths out once you hit 4K rpms. I bought a '06 DL 1000 with 5K miles on it in Feb of this year. After 4K miles the vibration became terrible. I sent my clutch basket to "realshelby" in TX for a complete modification in late April and its like having a nwe bike. The bike actually runs great in the 3500-4000 rpm range which I couldn't do without vibration before.
4) No! Don't change sprockets yet. You mentioned a concern for gas mileage. If you go to a 16T your milage will drop. Cruising at 65 as you mentioned will put you in the low to mid 3000 rpm range where the bike will run just fine and accelerate when asked to. I realize 45 mpg cruising at 65-85 mph on my 06 AFTER the clutch basket modification. Before the basket mod I couldn't run below 4000 rpm due to the vibration from the clutch and could only get 40-41 mpg. I've put a couple of thousand miles on the modified basket and it has made a world of difference in how I ride and shift. Unless your doing off road riding and want a lower first gear leave the sprockets alone.
5) Lastly, don't screw around messing with car filters. The filter on the Vstrom is in a vulnerable location and you want in tucked in tight in it's original location. I've used Rotella in a KLR I have but I recommend using a good semi-synthetic bike oil. More expensive but worth it in my book for this bike's engine.

I never mentioned a concern for mileage, but i will make the gearing change decision after a decent tune up this weekend.

1. The speedo is off 7% in my case
2. Forget the Speedohealer. If you are getting a GPS use that or just figure it is a little low
3. the grinding... Check the chain first and look at the sprockets. the DL1000 can be noisy my2006 was. they test for Chudder by going up an an incline in a higher gear at low speed and load the engine. If it starts to buck at 3500 to 45500 pull in the clutch a touch and see if it goes away. if so look at the Chudder threads
4.There is a PNW for sale thread,list the stuff you don't want

Welcome to the Forum

the chain and sprockets only have 300 miles on them.

I think imma be looking at the chudder threads.


Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[grantizzle]

Another question.... where do the strommers go online to buy parts for their bikes? I'm in need of some tune up stuff and would like to order it online (and shop for other farkles.)