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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody! I stumbled across this forum while searching for some information on the F1 code. I just got an 07 and it runs but has the F1 code and a pretty aggressive fuel leak on the front throttle body. Once I’ve got it disassembled I’ll post some questions here if I can’t find what I need to know in the existing posts that are already on this forum. Cheers! I look forward to riding this bike and learning about it while I repair it

It’s been sitting for three years so the game plan is to replace all the fluids and go over all the mechanicals to make sure it is a safe and reliable machine when I put it on the road.
 

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Hi everybody! I stumbled across this forum while searching for some information on the F1 code. I just got an 07 and it runs but has the F1 code and a pretty aggressive fuel leak on the front throttle body. Once I’ve got it disassembled I’ll post some questions here if I can’t find what I need to know in the existing posts that are already on this forum. Cheers! I look forward to riding this bike and learning about it while I repair it

It’s been sitting for three years so the game plan is to replace all the fluids and go over all the mechanicals to make sure it is a safe and reliable machine when I put it on the road.
FI (Fault Indicator) code can be retrieved by putting the ECU into "dealer mode" with a jumper wire if you search for the correct connector pin location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Interesting, I’m guessing that the case probably has a connection to the fuel leak so I’ll start with fixing that and see what that gets me. The fuel is surprisingly clean and not varnish like at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’ll have to do a little more disassembly to locate the correct connection to jump and get the code out of it.
Thanks for the insight and links so far guys, I’ll definitely post what I find when I make some more progress
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I know I saw it somewhere but for some reason I can’t find the thread that mentions the fuel line size when converting to generic fuel line and clamps. I want to say it was 5/16” ID hose but confirmation would be nice because I’m planning on replacing all the fuel lines this weekend and buying the parts to do so tomorrow while I’m in town working. I’ll also buy a low profile inline filter and decide if I’m going to do that mod while I’m at it. I’m definitely going to take the pump out and have a look at what it’s all about.

Edit: I found a post by greywolf in a thread related tofuel leaks and he confirmed the 5/16” or 8mm hose. Seems like that fella knows his stuff as I see him giving useful information out all over the place while I’m working on getting smarter about my new to me ride 😉
 

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Not sure why you are going the high pressure filter bypass route. I would first look at a fuel flow test results (Quick fuel pump flow test.), before going the bypass route (External Fuel Filter modification).

Take note that the bypass filter, the fuel hose and the clamps, that you intend buying, must be able to handle the 43 PSI fuel injection pressure.

For the record, what dealer mode code did you receive?
 

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I’ll have to do a little more disassembly to locate the correct connection to jump and get the code out of it.
On my bike ('02 Vee) the connector is just dangling between the frame and the fairing, roughly underneath the pillions left buttock. You can remove the seat and fish the connector out from the gap between the frame and the fairing, no disassembly required.

Does the DL650 really require significant disassembly to get to the connector?

In any case, a suitable paperclip should be added to the OEM toolkit as standard. A fuel injected bike has a ton of sensors, and the ECU will tell you exactly which one is wrong. If you can get it into dealer mode.
 

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The dealer mode connector lead doesn't have a lot of slack. Removing the tupperware etc, while labour intensive, makes life easier to access the connector for the first time. Many of us have extended the dealer mode wiring, for easier access at a later date (if ever required). Dealer Mode Switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I found the plug and jumped the connectors to get a C23 code out of it. As stated really not much disassembly required but there’s definitely going to be an extension in that things future if I need to access it on the regular but I’m hoping that’s not the case once I’ve got the bike sorted.

Edit I just found out what the code refers to. It’s the tip over sensor. So I guess I’ll be looking for that little thing to see what’s wrong with it. I’ll have the tank off and fuel pump out tomorrow so that I can replace the fuel lines and clean up the throttle bodies etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I just had a learning moment, I now know exactly where the tip over sensor is. I popped it off it’s little perch to try and get a little better access to the dealer mode plug. Once back in its place I get C00 (no fault)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Not sure why you are going the high pressure filter bypass route. I would first look at a fuel flow test results (Quick fuel pump flow test.), before going the bypass route (External Fuel Filter modification).

Take note that the bypass filter, the fuel hose and the clamps, that you intend buying, must be able to handle the 43 PSI fuel injection pressure.

For the record, what dealer mode code did you receive?
I haven’t committed to the filter bypass yet but I do have an aggressive leak to fix for sure. I bought high pressure line rated for much more than 43 PSI and the proper clamps to go along with it. The preliminary plan is to replace all of the fuel lines (because I suspect that’s where the leak is coming from) and pull the fuel pump to clean it up as best I can and inspect the condition of the filter. I’ll also clean up the throttle bodies while I’m in there and make sure that they are operating as they should.

As far as the code goes I’m guessing that I’ll have to check that with the engine running because that’s when it flashes FI. I’ll get on that shortly

Edit: I got the C32 code other the engine running. Injector signal #1 (front) which is the side where my aggressive leak is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Is there a way to clear the FI code?
I cobbled the wiring back together to the semi melted plug and put it all back together. Runs good now but still have the fault code C32 I will get a new plug and injector o rings etc. before riding any kind of distance but with the fuel leak sorted and that burnt wirin removed the bike runs pretty good
 
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