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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just finished installing a Blue Seas 5025 Fuse Block and some accessories powered by it. Some of these ideas were borrowed from other Stromtrooper members. Thanks.

The Blue Seas 5025 is powered from the battery with an in-line relay, triggered by a "rear brake connector relay switching adapter" from Eastern Beaver. Using the relay means the fuse block is only powered when the ignition is on.

Eastern Beaver's Weblink;
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/VStrom/brakeadavstrom.html

Blue Seas 5025, pic 1;


Blue Seas 5025, pic 2;


A picture of the adapter from Eastern Beaver, which plugs in under the rear portion of the gas tank, under the tack mounting bracket;


the installed wiring adapter (photo courtesy of another Stromtrooper member);


I installed a Stebel Nautilus horn, mounted to the left side of the engine, using the unused threaded hole in the engine case. The hole is covered by a rubber bung from the factory, and the threads are 10mm x 1.25 pitch. I made the horn bracket from a straight piece of aluminum. I also painted the horn's compressor with black paint, which looks better than the silver it was originally finished in. The compressor separates easily from the horn to accomplish this.

Stebel Nautilus Horn, pic 1;


Stebel Nautilus Horn, pic 2;


Since the horn pulls up to 15 amps, I wired the horn using the supplied relay to trigger it, and I used this diagram;


I then installed this 12V Socket, so that I could power my GPS unit. The socket is well-made, has a marine style rubber cap, and grabs the inserted electrical gps power adapter without losing electrical contact. I bought the socket from a company called "towzatronics" on eBay. The company is located in England, but he ships pretty quickly and cheaply. The green rubber piece on the socket is my own addition. It is from a Target pharmacy prescription bottle. The green ring helps keep the socket ring from loosening, and I thing it looks good as well.

towzatronics eBay website;
http://stores.ebay.com/towzatronics

12V Socket, pic 1, (the included rectangular mounting bracket was not used);


I made the mounting bracket for the socket, using aluminum angle. I think it turned out pretty good.

12V Socket, installed, pic 1;


12V Socket, installed, pic 2;


12V Socket, installed, pic 3;


I also installed a handlebar mount for my GPS unit. The mount is made by a company named "Techmounts", and this is their #30996 model, which runs about $70. The white material between the mount and the GPS unit is a piece cut from a kitchen cutting board, which I needed to adapt my GPS mount to the Techmount. This is what happens when you try to use a car-based GPS on a motorcycle.

GPS with Techmount, pic 1;


GPS with Techmount, pic 2;


Techmount's weblink;
http://www.techmounts.com/products/index.php?page_function=detail&product_id=13

Let me know what you think, or if you have any questions.
 

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Nice work

I do not know what is better, the job you did mounting it all, or the way you documented how you did it so I can do it just about as nice.

Thanks for sharing that. I enjoy doing marine electrical work, (I know, I am sick) and am very familiar with the Blue Seas products, it should work fine. The only suggestion I would have is to be sure to coat all connections with dilectric grease, or at least silicone grease to ensure corrosion does not set in. I know a boat is a lot different from a motorcycle, but with the bouncing around and the moisture it never hurts. I hate having to find out what went wrong with something electrical as it always dies in the middle of the night.

I have found that to be one thing that kills any electrical work now matter how nice an install you do. Otherwise, great job.
 

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You took your time and did it right, and it shows!
Well done mate!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I just finished installing a few more electrical components;

Datel Digital Voltmeter, model #DMS-20PC-1-DCM-C, purchased for $48.50 including shipping, from http://www.digitalmeter.com/

I made the bracket from aluminum, using 2 pieces to raise the meter enough to visually clear the mounting bolt. I used Gorilla glue to hold the aluminum pieces and meter together. This glue is awesome! I powered the meter using Eastern Beaver's harness, plugging into the OEM heated grip plug. This plug had been un-used since I am powering my grip heaters directly from the Blue Seas fuse block. The OEM plug was incredibly difficult to get to on my 2009 DL650. I had to pull the gas tank and the right fairing, as well as loosen the radiator. It was tucked behind the radiator with very little room for my big paws.

Datel Voltmeter, pic 1;


Datel Voltmeter, pic 2;


Datel Voltmeter, pic 3;


I also installed two Powerlet / BMW plugs, using a home-made bracket, mounting it under the rear bolt of the left passenger footrest bracket. These will be used to power heated vests for my wife and me.


I decided to change my mounting method for the Symtec heated grips, as too much heat was radiating to the handlebars when I mounted the elements under the OEM grips. As seen elsewhere on this forum, I taped the Symtecs to the outside of the OEM grips, then placed some Grip Puppy knock-offs over the Symtec elements. This is a much better method, as much more heat is transferred to the hands. If you are looking for an easy way to slide the Grip Puppies over the OEM grips; soak a paper towel with rubbing alcohol, then place it inside the end of the Grip Puppy at the end nearest the OEM grips. The paper towel will lubricate the process as you slide the Grip Puppy over the OEM grips, and it will fall out of the end of the Grip Puppy as you complete the process. Use compressed air under the grip to fine-tune the fit.

Finished install of Symtecs and Grip Puppies;


Heat-Troller switch and home-made bracket;


Updated pic of Blue Seas 5025;


By the way, regarding my Stebel Nautilus horn install shown in the first post of this thread; the relay supplied with the horn failed after very little use, requiring me to replace it. Reading other posts, it sounds like this is not uncommon. Save yourself some headache and throw the Stebel relay in the trash before installing it.
 

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Very nice job and a great write up. I was particularly interested in the inovative location of the two extra relays.

Did you remove the seat lock bracket to mount these, what type of screw/bolt combo are holding them up?

Cheers
TravellingStrom
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Very nice job and a great write up. I was particularly interested in the inovative location of the two extra relays.

Did you remove the seat lock bracket to mount these, what type of screw/bolt combo are holding them up?

Cheers
TravellingStrom
For attaching the relays, I just drilled a couple of holes in the bracket and used some extra bolts (6mm?) and nuts that I had. I don't believe the bracket is removeable, so the best method would be to use locknuts or flarenuts, since there is not much room to get your hands in there to use the washer/lockwasher/nut method .
 
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