StromTrooper banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
$tromTrooper
Joined
·
1,741 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
During the winter months one of my projects will be to redo my Strom Saddle. I have done a ton of research and contacted companies.

This company has risen to the top in terms materials....

Dynamic Systems, INC. and the product is SunMate


Any comments or tips for this type of job are appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
657 Posts
I purchased a used DL650 seat to shorten overall height on a DL1000. Even with an Alaska Sheepskin, it was uncomfortable after 1 hour's ride. I studied this thread:
http://11109.rapidforum.com/topic=109076102602&search=&startid=1

and used Sunmate foam to customize the seat - twice! No pictures of my own to post, but the above thread has plenty.

The rehab was only for the rider portion of the seat. I removed just enough staples to pull the seat cover back a few inches past the hump, so it would be easier to align and re-fasten working from back to front. For my 160# and skinny butt, I used 1" thick, medium-firm the first time, cut out just enough OEM foam 1" deep for an insert 5" across the front, 7" across the back and 6" long.

A $12 electric knife from the discount store and a half-round cheese grater worked best for cutting and shaping the foam (sanding is very messy, and it's too easy to slip and gouge). Any all-purpose spray adhesive works for setup and the seat cover will hold everything together. The seat pan plastic isn't uniformly hard/soft and consumer grade electric staplers (I now own 2, a Sears and a Stanley :confused: ) failed to get good penetration 60% of the time. Ended up using a plain old Arrow T-50 and a tack hammer.

Turned out looking like OEM. A lot of time working carefully, a VERY firm seat and still uncomfortable after an hour's ride!!?! I needed a switch to Sunmate Medium and improve on the overall shape.

Second try was more radical, using lessons learned. Cut out the OEM foam down to the pan: 8" from the nose back to the passenger hump, side to side leaving just enough OEM foam at the side for a smoother look (surprising how slight imperfections really show thru the tough Suzuki seat cover). Tapered the bottom 1" of Sunmate medium foam to 1/2", front to back, to reduce the slide forward and underwear "bunching". Cut the top 1" Sunmate too wide, and shaped it back "close" to stock for the most support. There's still enough seat cover to get it fastened well, and I missed the extra 1 inch in width of the DL1000 seat. Scraped out a bit of a depression down the middle for a little pressure relief. Cut the "joy" bump down on the passenger portion for more "emergency" wriggle room.

7000 miles on it this year, and it is much better. Not great, still firm, tolerable. It still needs the Alaska Sheepskin because the rubberized seat cover builds up the heat.

My winter project is to pull the cover back again and add new 1/4" finishing foam from a local auto seat re-upholsterer. He does gel seat mods for Harleys too, and believes this thin, closed-cell foam will make the seat feel better. Worth a try.
 

·
$tromTrooper
Joined
·
1,741 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tips Austin.

I haven't tackled the task yet, but I still have the cold winter months of January and February in front of me and will redo the seat at that time.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top