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Discussion Starter #1
Strommers, don't delay replacing that worn chain, my Vee is almost a Wee now! (except for the buckets of power and matching buckets of fuel)
 

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I have a new set in my drawer downstairs waiting for installation. I can't decide if i want to order a chain rivetter, or just put a clip on temporarily and ride it to a dealer to have them rivet it. hmm

I could also take the whole mess to the dealer and let them install it too. $$$

I guess buying a rivet gun is the cheapest option.
 

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I'm about ready to change mine, and I was reading on ADV of a guy who uses clips and wire over the clips to keep them seated. Interesting thought, if I can save a hundred bucks out of it. He claims to never have had a problem.

Rivet versus Clip master link - ADVrider
 

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new chain and sprockets tools

My sprockets looked fine but the chain was to the point without oiling ever hundred miles or so it became noisy. I already had a new set in the garage so decided to replace all. Everything went well until installing the master link without a good tool and now I am waiting on that tool and another master link so best to do it right with the right tools :furious:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Harbor Freight Chain Breaker

I used the Harbor Freight $7.99 chain breaker to break AND rivit the new master link, per the YouTube video. I did take the extra pusher pin and grind a point on it to make sure it centered in the master link pin. I chucked the pin in my cordless drill and ran it against the Dremel tool grinding wheel, that I had out anyway to grind the head off a link on the bike.

I did have difficulty pressing the side plate on the new master link. Luckily I had a backup chain tool from a friend that performed that task well.

I think if I can drill a small counterbore in the Harbor Freight tool main bolt to clear the link pin diameter I can use it to push the side plate on next time.
 

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speaking of chain plate pressing

so I have my new chain almost on the bike....BUT!

I was using the motion pro chain tool with the press plates to get the master link plate pressed. I think I went just a tad too far...the master link doesnt pivot as easily as the other thinks. Its not bad, but not as smooth as the links next to it. How anal do I have to be? Will it loosen up? I have not riveted it on yet, just pressed the side plate on....waiting to see what yall say.

thanks...im pretty sure i know the answer, just hoping im being a bit over the top.:headbang:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
master link spacers

My master link came with two metal spacers to put between the plates and the inner link. It prevents you from pressing/riviting too tight and crushing the o-rings. It's and EK chain from SV Racing. You pull them out after riviting.
 

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My master link came with two metal spacers to put between the plates and the inner link. It prevents you from pressing/riviting too tight and crushing the o-rings. It's and EK chain from SV Racing. You pull them out after riviting.
If you don't use the spacers it's very easy to press the plate on a little too far. Some chains come with spacers and some don't.
 

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Biscuits

Don't forget the cush drive rubbers, aka "biscuits," that go in your hub. I replace them with the sprockets, and the difference in fit of the sprocket carrier in the hub is remarkable. It takes just a bit more play out of the drivetrain.
 
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