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I just picked this up today. I guess you could say my easter egg was big! Pumped to get some adventures in with it.

I notice when i ride it has a little rumble or growl when taking off in first and when running low rpm's. I'm sure this is probably normal, but i seem to hear it around 3k rpm until 4 or 5k rpm, really just on takeoff. It then goes away and does the normal run. Guy said he put different sprockets it on so I want to see what it's running and see where I need to be. The bike has 27k miles on it.

One other thing I'm wondering, which isn't a major concern is the rear side boxes. They have a red and then a clear reflector, they look like they could be lights, but they aren't. I am not sure which direction they go, it seems as though the boxes fit on either side so I want to make sure I have the right box on the correct side of the bike. Am I right in assuming that the photos i'm posting show it backwards? Should the red be at the rear? Thanks in advance!

I'm going to order some oil, air filter, and an oil filter and get that first maintenance in. This has brand new tires on it! Really excited.

Before everybody asks, i paid $3000 cash, because I know we all want to know what I paid for the dang near 2 decade old beast! The old van made the 8 hour round trip run.
 

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Welcome to Stromtroopers! I suspect the rumble at that rev range is simply the factory fuel map. It can be reduced and give better, smoother power at the lower revs and really scream all the way up the range with a Power Commander.

Yes, as hoggdoc said, the red were meant to be tail reflectors. That's how I mount mine. Some folks have mentioned the possibility of a following driver seeing them and not noticing the flashing turn signal above it. I doubt that's a real concern, but I did put much brighter bulbs in the signal lights all around. Originals are 10 watts. I put 18 watt bulbs in the back and 21 watt bulbs up front.

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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You likely have the well known and documented "clutch chudder", but agree you are likely running too lean as well which is also well documented with the 02-12 1000's. There is a fix for the clutch chudder, Realshelby who is a supporting vendor here makes a modified clutch basket which fixes the issue, here is his company......welcome to the forum. https://www.werksparts.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the pointers. It doesn't sound like a typical clutch chatter as i've heard on my 4 stroke dirt bikes, but could very well be. I know these older ones have things that need worked through but I would think with the 27k miles on this, those things have been done, or maybe not. Previous owner got it with very few miles and owned it for 10 years, i doubt if he has done the rear spacer, any clutch work at all, or any fuel mapping. I notice the front blinkers are offwhite, those are getting painted asap, can't stand the manilla look haha. I am going to get a trip in with this and want to make sure it's ready, so i'll check to see if I have any play in the rear wheel area and if not will call that good. As far as this low rpm noise upon acceleration I'm going to ride it and just see if i can pin point it. I'm not opposed to a power commander, but also won't go that route unless I'm going to put a set of pipes on it. Then I get into the whole, which pipe fits with which bag setup. I would prefer to keep it quiet though since it's going to be a touring bike not a noise maker, if it's actually running lean, with stock setup, i hope it's not dangerously lean.
 

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To check out the clutch shudder y/n question, go to the werksparts website and read up. He describes a procedure how to check while driving. If you have the shudder you will be able to tell once you know how.

The fueling is notorious. Some run a boosterplug (mine is a new generation 1000) and it made a big difference. Others chime in if the boosterplug also work its magcic in the 1st gen 1000.
 

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Welcome!
Bags are backwards. Check the chudder. Sync the throttle bodies and make sure the intake boots are seated and tight. Power Commander makes a big difference even with the stock setup.
Be careful of electrical accessories, Not a lot of extra wattage.
Be aware the 02-03s are not the same as the 04 on in a lot of aspects.
Nice Cee Bailey windshield. If you want a stock one I have an extra I'd sell.

You'll get lots of smiles per dollar with this bike!
 
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I just picked this up today. I guess you could say my easter egg was big! Pumped to get some adventures in with it.

I notice when i ride it has a little rumble or growl when taking off in first and when running low rpm's. I'm sure this is probably normal, but i seem to hear it around 3k rpm until 4 or 5k rpm, really just on takeoff. It then goes away and does the normal run. Guy said he put different sprockets it on so I want to see what it's running and see where I need to be. The bike has 27k miles on it.

One other thing I'm wondering, which isn't a major concern is the rear side boxes. They have a red and then a clear reflector, they look like they could be lights, but they aren't. I am not sure which direction they go, it seems as though the boxes fit on either side so I want to make sure I have the right box on the correct side of the bike. Am I right in assuming that the photos i'm posting show it backwards? Should the red be at the rear? Thanks in advance!

I'm going to order some oil, air filter, and an oil filter and get that first maintenance in. This has brand new tires on it! Really excited.

Before everybody asks, i paid $3000 cash, because I know we all want to know what I paid for the dang near 2 decade old beast! The old van made the 8 hour round trip run.
Keep her between 4 and 5 k and you will find she responds well, I ride an 09 , they are awesome bikes. Oh, yeah, red to the back, you have the stock panniers by the sound of it.
 

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I did a fairly extensive write-up of the 'known issues' with the first gen DL1000. You might find it helpful.


As the most imminent thing, I would suggest you pull the stator/rotor cover at the first oil change, and take a look at your stator and rotor. Stator should have no burn marks, and the rotor should have six magnets placed symmetrically around the rotor, with even gaps in between. These magnets on 2003+ DL1000s are not bonded well and eventually let go. The magnets then bunch together which reduces the charging capability of the electrical system, and may also cause a burned stator. Preventative cure is to put a JB Weld bridge in between. Plus, at every service also perform the electrical stator checks as detailed in the service manual (resistance, AC volts, DC volts).

The rest can probably wait a bit. But read the thread I linked to and make up your own mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks a ton for everything here guys. When I bought this, I thought I was buying a ready to ride and ready to make trips motorcycle. I still believe I did, however having owned a handful of bikes all the way from cbr 600, to dr200, to gs1100's, I understand they all have kinks that need to be done. My old CBR f4i went through CCTL until I put a manual one in. That might have been all I ever did to it through the 60k miles i owned it, aside from regular maintenance.

I will likely ride this for the new oil change interval (5k miles) before I do anything, then at least I know I love it or don't love it. Looks like most are running the rotella as most of my dirt bike and atv guys tend to do. I run the amsoil 10w40 metric bike stuff, but may go rotella on the first round here. 5w40 blue bottle synthetic.

So far on the list,

1. look into rear wheel spacer
2. clutch mod, or new clutch basket
3. test the stator, which at this point shows no signs of issue, but will be noting the failures mentioned
4. booster, plug, power commander, or something similar
synch TB's

Is there any tell tale sign that i need to synch the tb's or is it just something you guys are doing as preventative maintenance. I'll have the tank off to do the air filter anyway so I am making a list to sort of run through these things so I can do it all while I am in there.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Quick question about O/D.....is it just 6th gear? Or is there some different button or mechanism that I need to be pushing to put it into O/D? I assume it's just a fancy way of saying, you hvae another gear and now you're in the top gear.
 

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OD means it is IN 6th gear. IF the light bothers to come on. Notorious to hide at times....

Yes, the clutch basket can be an issue. It will NOT leave you stranded. But it alone can ruin what you think of the bike. If you think it has to be kept above 4000 rpm, that means you are fighting the bike and missing the best part of that engine for normal riding. At 27K miles that basket, if original, will have more wear than some would imagine. I fix that so it is better than new, and stays that way.
Yes, do inspect the magnets in the rotor. I would do the JB Weld fix regardless. This fixes the most common problem of this bike to leave you stranded. A Voltmeter isn't an accessory, it is a MUST on this or any bike in my opinion.
Fueling isn't perfect. But more often the throttle body boots are leaking, TPS isn't right, idle is too low. Iridium spark plugs help these bikes. They are too lean at part throttle at lower rpms. They are rich at full throttle and higher rpms. Installing a power commander can help with some issues, but often ends up lowering fuel mileage a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
so the magnets have likely come apart and are not in the position that started at? I should be able to see this just by pulling the cover. THat will require a new gasket.

How long will a stock basket roll without issue a new one that is. does barnett or anybody make an aftermarket basket? I would have no problem sending mine to you but am wondering if my stock basket is so grooved anyway that it could need replaced regardless. I'm going to check the boots when i change the air filter. Seems this thing need a lot of attention, although it runs nearly perfect, aside from the chudder.
 

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Magnets: Do some more research since I think the alternator design was changed from the very early version, alternator output was increased. I thought the early version had the same low output as the WEE had. I am no expert on early 1000 but check before you tear into it. It may be an 2004 and newer issue.

Definitely install a cheapo digital V indicator. That will tell you if there is anything bad coming before it gets you stranded and also helps keeping the battery charged in case you run heated gear or other larger additional electrical loads.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, the PO just put a new gel battery in it so that might be an indicator, or his battery was just bad, hard to say. I can check voltage at the battery when machine is running to make sure we're getting what we need there. I assume it's the same as a car battery 12-13v right?
 

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What @blaustrom said. The early 02-03 didn't have the magnet issue, if i recall correctly.
 

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I can check voltage at the battery when machine is running to make sure we're getting what we need there. I assume it's the same as a car battery 12-13v right?
For these bikes you need a continuous V display so you see if/ when something is changing. Spot checks are of no use other than for maintenance or testing. If your stator goes, it deteriorates over time = means you have a chance to take care of it before you are stranded with a dead battery out in the hinterland somewhere.
 
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