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Ok, probably been asked 50 times, but where on the motor is the neutral light switch? This 07 wee I bought was on it's side and out in the weather during Hurricane Harvey. Inst panel is dead except for the turn signal indicators and high beam lights. I did have a neutral light intermittently when I got the bike but no longer. Thinking the switch is likely bad or corroded.....
 

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If you can start the bike with the side stand down, that's a pretty good sign the switch is working correctly. Assuming the side stand switch has not been bypassed.

To confirm, under the gas tank, near the bracket that holds the gas tank near the seat, there is a 3 wire connector with pink, blue and black wires. Using a multimeter, test for continuity between the blue and black wire. You should see continuity when the transmission is in neutral, and no continuity in any other gear. If you want, you can also test the other positions by turning the ignition on with the side stand on. Test voltage between the black and pink wires. It should always read above .6 V. Though, if this part of the switch fails, you will receive a FI error. Though, the blue and black wire test is the most relevant to your issue. If there is any corrosion on this connector, clean that too.

If you are seeing continuity, and the neutral light is not lit, you likely have a instrument cluster problem or a problem with the connector for the harness. Given that your instrument cluster has other problems, its probably related to that and may explain your other issues. Corrosion from water damage tends to get worse if the cluster board or connector is not cleaned to remove contaminants.

If the switch fails the test, then you can find the switch underneath the clutch basket and replace.

Edit: I just realized you asked about the Wee. This is the Vee subforum. In that case, physical connectors are possibly different but the idea is the same. These components probably aren't much different in operation.

I will leave this if anybody wants to know for the Vee in the future.
 

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Yeah I, I realized that I posted on the wrong place, but I see that it is moved to the correct thread. Thanks to the administrator.
Ok, the side stand switch has been working correctly, so likely to be in the instrument cluster. That makes sense, but I was thinking that it wasn't as those led lights tend to last forever but corrosion makes sense. I'll need to eBay an instrument cluster, but I can't just yet. Thanks!
 

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Yeah I, I realized that I posted on the wrong place, but I see that it is moved to the correct thread. Thanks to the administrator.
Ok, the side stand switch has been working correctly, so likely to be in the instrument cluster. That makes sense, but I was thinking that it wasn't as those led lights tend to last forever but corrosion makes sense. I'll need to eBay an instrument cluster, but I can't just yet. Thanks!
So are you saying only the turn signal and high beam indication work on your cluster? Do your speedometer or tachometer work? the LEDs tend to be quite robust. There is a harness disconnect about a foot from were it connects into the instrument cluster. Sometimes pins/sockets can be burnt. That would be a good place to look. Also the cluster itself it quite easy to disassemble. you could open it up and take a look for burn marks or left over residue that would indicate some form of liquid was there but has since dried up.

I attached a few pictures of my spare cluster taken apart (took about 1min to do) and the harness right after the cluster.
 

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If you can start the bike with the side stand down, that's a pretty good sign the switch is working correctly. Assuming the side stand switch has not been bypassed.

To confirm, under the gas tank, near the bracket that holds the gas tank near the seat, there is a 3 wire connector with pink, blue and black wires. Using a multimeter, test for continuity between the blue and black wire. You should see continuity when the transmission is in neutral, and no continuity in any other gear. If you want, you can also test the other positions by turning the ignition on with the side stand on. Test voltage between the black and pink wires. It should always read above .6 V. Though, if this part of the switch fails, you will receive a FI error. Though, the blue and black wire test is the most relevant to your issue. If there is any corrosion on this connector, clean that too.

If you are seeing continuity, and the neutral light is not lit, you likely have a instrument cluster problem or a problem with the connector for the harness. Given that your instrument cluster has other problems, its probably related to that and may explain your other issues. Corrosion from water damage tends to get worse if the cluster board or connector is not cleaned to remove contaminants.

If the switch fails the test, then you can find the switch underneath the clutch basket and replace.

Edit: I just realized you asked about the Wee. This is the Vee subforum. In that case, physical connectors are possibly different but the idea is the same. These components probably aren't much different in operation.

I will leave this if anybody wants to know for the Vee in the future.
I have the same issue, I've verified the LED is working by grounding the blue/grey wire on the big plug near the instrument cluster. In neutral the black/white and blue wires show continuity at GPS switch. The black/white is a ground as well.

On the other end of that connector the blue wire is also hot when bike is on and in neutral. I've also cleaned out the turn signal relay pins. Any other suggestions? My turns signals, tach, high beam indicator, and instrument backlighting all work.
 

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forgot to mention, grounding the blue wire at connector along the subframe will power up the fuel pump. Is this a bad diode in the relay?
 

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ok I fixed it, turned out to be the pins in the relay not making good contact, bent them all slightly and the neutral light is working again.
 
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