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Discussion Starter #1
I'm installing an H4 relay and a PC 8 this weekend. I'm a novice at electrics, and before I do it wrong, I wanted to get some advice. I've looked at Eastern Beaver's website, and the various threads on here, and I'm still not sure about the hookup of the H4 relay. I've attached some photos; maybe someone could just tell me based on the numbers in the photos what number hooks up to what number? And am I correct that, of the two female H4 couplers in the H4 kit, only one is used and the other is taped up and secured out of the way?

The second photo is the left side of my 650, showing the H4 socket already removed.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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#3 is connected to either #4 or the other headlight connector. Only one is needed to throw the relays. #1 and #2 are plugged into the headlights. Tape over the #3 and #4 connection as well as the unused connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
One final question. The H4 relay and the PC8 are installed. The relay kit I bought is designed for wiring to the PC8, and not directly to the battery. I read in the PC8 instructions that the maximum current draw for each circuit is 15 amps; however, the H4 relay kit has a 20 amp fuses included for installation in the PC8.

I know Jim knows his business, so this is more for my education than a critique of the product. Can anyone enlighten me about this?
 

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I have the same setup, but can't remember what I did. I'll Czech and post up.
 

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The 20A fuse is there because the flash to pass switch will turn on the high beams in addition to the low beams. The PC8 is rated for 15A continuous and 20A momentary. Put a 20A fuse in the PC8 and you'll be fine as long as you don't hold the flash2pass switch for an extended time. Those as paranoid as me can separate the red wire between the two relays and run a second power wire from the short wired relay to the PC8 so each relay can get power from a 15A fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Greywolf. I should have taken the momentary increased load into account. I think I'll stick with the stock wiring of the Eastern Beaver kit; if I tried what you're describing, I'd probably have to place a second order to Eastern Beaver to replace what I messed up.
 

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Eastern Beaver H4 Relay Installation Instructions

After reading a number of posts as well as Eastern Beaver's H4 relay instructions, I decided to compile a list of instructions into a single list for my own install this weekend. I am putting a copy of the instructions I used here. The install worked great (as did the PC8 install), so thanks everyone. I certainly benefitted from your wisdom.

 

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I'm still unclear as to the purpose of the headlight relay.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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There are a bunch of connectors and contacts in the stock headlight wiring. They tend to overheat and fail over time and the power to make heat is robbed from the headlight brightness. Adding relays means the stock system is only running the relays. The beefy relay contacts deliver power directly to the lights over heavy wires without a bunch of contacts and connectors to fail. The headlights get about one volt more and much more reliably. See the stock system problems reported at http://www.stromtrooper.com/information-vault/71046-headlight-problems.html
 

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Can Head light cut adaptor be used with Relay Kit?

First off, full disclosure...I'm a newby to ALL OF THIS...and have limited "electrical" experience as well.

Texan, this is what I gathered from Jim Davis's web site (Owner of Easton Beaver products):
"The VStrom does not come with factory headlight relays and so a lot of current flows through the switches and connectors. This causes early meltdown with loss of headlights. This Kit avoids that problem. Do not wait until your switch burns out or a connector melts, install this Kit even on a new VStrom."

I'm putting together an order for the PC8 along with the H4 Dual Headlight Relay Kit. Anyone know if putting on a Headight Cut Adaptor at the same time is worth it If so, can I install this cut off with the Relay Kit?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Oops....Didn't see you replied to Texan already GreyWolf...(told you I was a "newbie"!)

However, I'm still interested in your thoughts on whether adding a Headlight Cut Adapter is worth it or not.

Thanks!
 

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I have a switch to cut one headlight to make extra current available when daylight riding with extensive heated gear in freezing temperatures.
 

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I'll give it a whirl...Thanks, GreyWolf.
P.S. I see you're not that far from me. Let me know if you're ever in Arlington Heights...I'll buy you a beer!
 

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Made it to 60,000 on my 09 before I fried the connector. Just installed the relay kit and back in bidness! Was an interesting ride home the night the connector fried, though. Wish I'd seen this before. :)
 

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The pictures in this Headlight Relay thread with each electrical end numbered and Greywolf's notes on where each connects is perfect. Doesn't get any easier than this. My new Headlight relay works great. Thanks for your help.
 

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One final question. The H4 relay and the PC8 are installed. The relay kit I bought is designed for wiring to the PC8, and not directly to the battery. I read in the PC8 instructions that the maximum current draw for each circuit is 15 amps; however, the H4 relay kit has a 20 amp fuses included for installation in the PC8.

I know Jim knows his business, so this is more for my education than a critique of the product. Can anyone enlighten me about this?
If you fused it for the max *expected* current you might be popping fuses for very little reason as some things draw a hefty surge current. For example incandescent bulbs have a very large rush current when initially started because they are cold. Once warm they stabilize at their "normal" power draw. Fuses are rated for the max plus a safety margin to allow for these possible minor surges.
 

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After reading a number of posts as well as Eastern Beaver's H4 relay instructions, I decided to compile a list of instructions into a single list for my own install this weekend. I am putting a copy of the instructions I used here. The install worked great (as did the PC8 install), so thanks everyone. I certainly benefitted from your wisdom.
Removing the tank and plastics isn't anywhere near required. They just put that in there so people can't bitch about how hard it is with all the "stuff" in the way (it isn't).
Just use a fish tape or clothes hanger wire to fish the wires back - right side has the most clearance BTW. My biggest problem was holding the relays in place while I zip-tied them to the center fairing support. There's a cluster there with the two relays and the ballasts for the LED headlamps.
 

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If you fused it for the max *expected* current you might be popping fuses for very little reason as some things draw a hefty surge current.
That isn't it. Answered in post #7.
 
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