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Need Filter advice for Filter bypass job.

2240 Views 20 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Cal
Can someone who has don’t the fuel filter bypass post here what filter they used? I am trying to do this tonight and hoping the local auto parts store might have what some of you have used? I can’t find anything on that actual filter/installation portion on here.
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Can someone who has don’t the fuel filter bypass post here what filter they used? I am trying to do this tonight and hoping the local auto parts store might have what some of you have used? I can’t find anything on that actual filter/installation portion on here.
I am not certain how different the wee is from the vee, but I did quite a bit of research and hand-wringing when I did the external fuel filter bypass on my 08 Vee. My selection of external filters was based on the space I wanted to fit the filter unto under the tank. Take a look at this thread question before I do the external fuel filter mod perhaps there is some nugget of info in there for your decision. The most important thing to remember, at least I think it is, is that you need a filter that is rated for the fuel line's pressure. Many of the correct sized filters are good for carburetors, not injectors.
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I recommend the Wix 33095 for a filter. It's much smaller than most of the ones you see in the how-to threads, and fits easily under the tank with roughly the same total length from tank to rail. There are others that would probably fit as well, but I can vouch for this one being trouble free for almost 100k miles. I only changed it proactively as I got water in my tank.

It's a good idea to attach it directly to the frame using velcro wire ties and put some buffer material between it so it doesn't rub through.

And yes, you'll need FI-rated hose clamps and fuel hose. My pick for the hose was Gates 27335, this is standard 5/16" FI rated fuel hose and worked out well on my bike.
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[QUOTE="Fox, post: 5665519, member: 40888"
And yes, you'll need FI-rated hose clamps and fuel hose. My pick for the hose was Gates 27335, this is standard 5/16" FI rated fuel hose and worked out well on my bike.
[/QUOTE]


Well….. I ended up buying the wix filter and standard hose and screw hose clamps. I cut the original fuel hose ended off so I could reuse those. I did not buy the incorrect hose and clamps intentionally I just didn’t know that. That being said the line is 3 bar and rated for 50 psi and our sys runs at 43 so might be okay? I put everything together with the new in line filter but left the tank loose and started it and let it run for a while. No leaks and no bulging anywhere. Actually squeezed the line with my fingers as I revved to about 6,000 rpm’s and I couldn’t even feel pressure increase. Could you tell me the clamps and fittings you bought? I’ll look into that hose you mentioned. I have the bike sitting outside overnight and will check for any leaks in the morning. If it is good I plan to take it for a cruise tomorrow night to see if that fixed the issue and if so I will replace the line again properly.
The clamps I bought weren't anything special, they were from an ebay auction titled "FUEL INJECTION HOSE CLAMPS 5/16" HOSE SIZE AUTOMOTIVE WHOLESALE PRICING"

Looked like this:

Tie Automotive lighting Rectangle Auto part Electric blue


They need to be FI rated. If the ones you used aren't, I'd plan to swap them.

Otherwise I reused the original fittings, if I recall they need to be handled carefully.
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Actually squeezed the line with my fingers as I revved to about 6,000 rpm’s and I couldn’t even feel pressure increase.
Bit of a misconception here. The fuel is pressurised in the fuel line by the fuel pump in the tank. The pressure is always the same, regardless of the power/RPMs requirements. This is because the fuel pump has a pressure regulator built-in.

The amount of fuel that makes its way into the cylinders is determined electrically by the ECU. It sends a signal to the fuel injectors (located in the throttle bodies) to open and close the injectors for a certain duration. More power required means the injectors stay open for longer, letting more fuel through.

I'm also a bit worried about this:

I cut the original fuel hose ended off so I could reuse those.
As far as I know the original fuel hose is nylon that is heat-shrinked onto the connectors. If you simply cut the fuel hose you end up with a nylon end that you can't reuse in any way. You need to peel off the nylon very carefully from the connectors so that you only end up with the bare connectors. You then slide the new fuel hose onto these connectors and clamp them. Did you do that?

Just for reference, the Dorman #800-081 connector set is the connectors that fit the V-Strom. Most people doing the mod get these connectors so that they don't have to hack into their existing fuel line at all.

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Bit of a misconception here. The fuel is pressurised in the fuel line by the fuel pump in the tank. The pressure is always the same, regardless of the power/RPMs requirements. This is because the fuel pump has a pressure regulator built-in.

The amount of fuel that makes its way into the cylinders is determined electrically by the ECU. It sends a signal to the fuel injectors (located in the throttle bodies) to open and close the injectors for a certain duration. More power required means the injectors stay open for longer, letting more fuel through.

I'm also a bit worried about this:



As far as I know the original fuel hose is nylon that is heat-shrinked onto the connectors. If you simply cut the fuel hose you end up with a nylon end that you can't reuse in any way. You need to peel off the nylon very carefully from the connectors so that you only end up with the bare connectors. You then slide the new fuel hose onto these connectors and clamp them. Did you do that?

Just for reference, the Dorman #800-081 connector set is the connectors that fit the V-Strom. Most people doing the mod get these connectors so that they don't have to hack into their existing fuel line at all.

Yes of course I stripped it down to the barb on the connections. I really think I will be fine with the “standard” fuel line but I did order FI line that should show up today from Amazon and will change it tonight and call it done.
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It's also very important to use FI hose clamps. They exert even clamping pressure around the fuel line.
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The clamps I bought weren't anything special, they were from an ebay auction titled "FUEL INJECTION HOSE CLAMPS 5/16" HOSE SIZE AUTOMOTIVE WHOLESALE PRICING"

Looked like this:

View attachment 312942

They need to be FI rated. If the ones you used aren't, I'd plan to swap them.

Otherwise I reused the original fittings, if I recall they need to be handled carefully.
Bares repeating.
Those worm type have a "dead" spot, where the gear engages the band. It pinches the hose (Sometimes you get lucky).That's where it will leak.
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Bares repeating.
Those worm type have a "dead" spot, where the gear engages the band. It pinches the hose (Sometimes you get lucky).That's where it will leak.
I did the fuel bypass on my F650GS and my 2012 DL650. On the f650 filter and hose I used gear clamps and sure enough after a month it started to leak but was able to stop the leak by tightening the clamp some more.
The V Strom I used the correct fuel injection hose and clamps. Used a Parts Master GF61M filter ( $8.00)which cross reference to the Wix 33032
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I just replaced everything with FI 275 psi rated line and the FI clamps. Still used the original fuel line connections on each end. This is really to get me going for a few months. Plan to buy a new fuel pump assembly eventually. Hopefully should be good. Had to since the air hose to the fuel line a bit to keep it off the cyl head. That’s my only concern. Plan to put the body back together in a few hours (kids need to go to bed) then take it out for a spin. Also I plan to ride to work in the am.
Just took it out through town and a bit of the highway. I call it fixed! Seems like I even have more power then I did before the issue.
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Congratulations! Well done.

Plan to buy a new fuel pump assembly eventually.
Why? You've got a perfectly working solution right now. In the future, if any debris gets into the fuel it's a few dollars for a new fuel filter. Plus, the external fuel filter will take a lot of debris before it clogs up. Whereas the inline filter in the fuel pump, well, it's so small it'll clog up almost immediately. So why spend over 1200 dollars (OEM new price) to end up with an inferior solution?
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Yep, I'd just consider it a permanent fix. The only issue I had with mine in almost ten years was a slight leak in extremely cold weather that went away when I reseated things. A replacement OEM fuel pump assembly is just resetting the clock before you do it all over again, and will clog up in a much shorter timeframe.

Be sure to inspect it once in a while for rubs and leaks.
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I'm trying to understand this filter by-pass procedure: Is the purpose to filter the fuel after it leaves the tank and before entering the throttle body/fuel injectors? I mean, coming from inside the tank, isn;t it already going through a filter before it is pumped out? I thought the fuel filter and pump were a consolidated unit in the tank.
Probably dumb questions. I have to be missing something simple.
I'm trying to understand this filter by-pass procedure: Is the purpose to filter the fuel after it leaves the tank and before entering the throttle body/fuel injectors? I mean, coming from inside the tank, isn;t it already going through a filter before it is pumped out? I thought the fuel filter and pump were a consolidated unit in the tank.
Probably dumb questions. I have to be missing something simple.
Stretch, when the high pressure filter clogs and fuel doesn't get through sufficiently, this is the simple and inexpensive fix. A hole is drilled in a particular place in the plastic of the in-tank fuel pump to bypass the high pressure filter. The external in-line filter then takes its place filtering the fuel.
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Stretch, when the high pressure filter clogs and fuel doesn't get through sufficiently, this is the simple and inexpensive fix. A hole is drilled in a particular place in the plastic of the in-tank fuel pump to bypass the high pressure filter. The external in-line filter then takes its place filtering the fuel.
OK, I understand. So then I assume the pump/filter has to be removed from the tank to drill the bypass hole, then reinstalled. Correct?
Every thing you need to know is in this thread.
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I wish I would have taken more pictures but here is the hole drilled.

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