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Discussion Starter #1
When installing the cross piece on my new Hepco and Becker crash bars, I stripped the threads on one of the holes in the bottom of the right bar so that one of the bolts that holds the cross piece in place doesn't hold.

I went and purchased a tap to rethread the hole. I've never used a tap before so I'm looking for some advice/tips. Is tapping hard to do? Are there things I should watch out for?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Lubricate the tap, oil for steel or kerosene/WD40 for aluminum. Use the right combination of hole size and tap size. If the force necessary to turn the tap noticeably increases, back it out and clear the chips.
 

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I just recently tapped and helicoiled one of the radiator mounts on my bike and what greywolf says is correct. It was the first time I did it and it worked fine.
 

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trick

One problem in tapping is in holding the tap perpendicular to the work piece as you rotate it. If it gets started crooked, it can't straighten out without bunging up the threads. If the hole you are tapping is on a piece (as opposed, for example, the engine case) it can be helpful to hold the piece under a drill press, put the tap in the chuck, and turn the chuck by hand while lowering the tap into the hole, which assuming your setup is accurate, will give you a straight, square thread. Absolutely, positively, whatever you do, do NOT force the tap. If it gets hard to turn, back it out, lubricate, and gently re-engage. You haven't had real fun until you've broken off a tap in a blind hole.
 

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Request a Replacement

This exact same thing happened to me with my Hepco-Becker's that I ordered from Adventure Motostuff. I believe there is a defect in the manufacturing process.

However, I requested they send me a replacement, which they did in a postage-prepaid box for me to return the defective one in, too. They first wanted to mail me out a tap to correct the problem myself, but I believed a replacement was in order after just spending $230 on crash bars.
 

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This is interesting. I had a similar problem with my H-B crash bars. I was lucky enough not to actually strip it, but given the effort it took to tighten, I'm pretty sure that bolt is cross-threaded. The original was just as tough to get out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm kicking myself because I should have tested the fit of all the parts before assembling the bars on the bike. Trying to screw those bolts in from under the bike I wonder if the problem was caused by me or by shoddy manufacturing.
 

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Just for the record

I'm kicking myself because I should have tested the fit of all the parts before assembling the bars on the bike. Trying to screw those bolts in from under the bike I wonder if the problem was caused by me or by shoddy manufacturing.
I assembled the whole rig on the floor of my apartment before actual installation and they still stripped out in the same place as yours did when I attempted to torque them down. When I backed the bolts out, a coil of metal(the old threads) were wrapped around the old bolts. I don't think they cut the threads deep enough at the factory.

Besides this flaw, I believe the Hepco-Becker's offer the most comprehesive protection, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As has been pointed out, for $230 and German engineering, I expect a little better quality.
 
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