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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The water temp gauge on my 2008 has started jumping up to high temp, then settling back to normal. The first time it did it I freaked but the engine wasn't overheating so I kept an eye on it. It will do it when the engine is stone cold, during a ride, and strangly, when I tried to reset the clock for standard time.

If I rev the engine, it will drop back to the correct reading, and while I'm riding it will go full temp, down to normal, and repeat the cycle every 10-15 seconds. I checked the coolant level and the wiring to the temp gauge, it all looks good.

When I went to roll the clock back, I got the clock blinking while holding the two buttons but as soon as I let up the temp jumped up and the dash read Check. A click of the Select button and it all when back to normal but with the clock no longer in adjust mode.

Any ideas? Here's the part I don't want to think about - a month ago I had the whole front end, tank, and dash apart to run some Eastern Beaver wiring up to the fairing and I'm wondering if maybe the main connector to the dash is loose. It was such a pain to get in there I don't want to think about tearing it apart again, but it didn't have the problem for 3 weeks after I put it together.

Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Tom
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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A CHEC display will also fill the right bars. It has nothing to do with the temp but is merely a "look here and see the CHEC" device. CHEC is usually due to the kill switch or sidestand switch being in the not run position. If the engine will run while displaying a CHEC, it is because of a poor connection between the ECM and the instrument panel preventing the panel from receiving the AOK signal from the ECM. The most likely cause of a poor connection is the large connector under the rubber cover in the fairing. It often develops an overheated condition from trying to feed the headlights through marginal connections and contacts. This is one more condition that can often be prevented by using headlight relays. It can also be the plug into the instrument module.
 

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Here's the part I don't want to think about - a month ago I had the whole front end, tank, and dash apart to run some Eastern Beaver wiring up to the fairing and I'm wondering if maybe the main connector to the dash is loose.

Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Tom
That would be the first place I would look, as well as check the wiring mods you did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A CHEC display will also fill the right bars. It has nothing to do with the temp but is merely a "look here and see the CHEC" device. CHEC is usually due to the kill switch or sidestand switch being in the not run position. If the engine will run while displaying a CHEC, it is because of a poor connection between the ECM and the instrument panel preventing the panel from receiving the AOK signal from the ECM. The most likely cause of a poor connection is the large connector under the rubber cover in the fairing. It often develops an overheated condition from trying to feed the headlights through marginal connections and contacts. This is one more condition that can often be prevented by using headlight relays. It can also be the plug into the instrument module.
As usual you are a fount of knowledge! Glad to know it's not the temp (although it got me to give the cooling system a good once-over).

Is the connector you mention the one hanging inside the fairing or the one that plugs into the back of the instrument panel? I never unplugged the one that hangs and reseated it this afternoon but still had the problems. The one behind the IP is such a pain to get to but I'll give that a try as well. I had a lot of trouble getting it plugged back in (damn giant hands!) I'll see if I can find a way to reseat it, too.

I've also been running my heated grips lately so I turned them off today, but no difference. It's supposed to rain tomorrow so I'll put in some quality garage time and go over the electrical connectors.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Tom
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Either connector could cause the CHEC problem. The free hanging one is the one affected by the headlight draw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That did the trick. I didn't feel any looseness or anything but pushing it together has made the problem go away.

Thanks as always, Mr. Wolf, you da best! :thumbup:

tom
 

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Mine too!

I just bought mine (2011 ABS) on Friday and it started doing the same thing just yesterday. I suppose it's time to educate myself on where all these parts and connectors are located. Good to know it's not overheating. The little red oil light also came on a couple times. The oil is at the correct level when parked on the center stand though. My other bike is a Royal Enfield. A very simple machine indeed! The learning curve on this one is a little steeper...
 
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