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Thanks for the post and the pics.

That is my weekend project to install my latest EB farkles. PC8/tail light harness/headlight relay/OEM grip heater to fuse panel.

I like the idea of the sheet of aluminum as a backing mount. Is it fastened down to the plastic??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Backing plate bent to confrom to tray and then velcoed in place ... I wanted to be able to remove
 

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The install was snap.

Here is my version. I followed your example ua99003

Just bent the sheet aluminum so it was elevated by 1/2 inch. Two wings of one inch with velcro but it also is a press fit.

 

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I'm in the process of installing the same setup on my DL650AK8. I'm not the best with wiring, but I want to make sure i get this right. Is the rear brake the wire the orange/white one below the coolant reservoir (see attached pic)? I honestly dont know if this is a good test, but I disconnected it and turned it on to see if the brake would light up and it did..so I'm a bit unsure. Can anyone verify that that is the wire? and if its not, post a pic or describe the location of the correct one? I just want to make sure I do this right.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The wire feeding the rear brake switch connector is orange/green, not orange/white. The picture at the Eastern Beaver site shows:

 

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The wire feeding the rear brake switch connector is orange/green, not orange/white. The picture at the Eastern Beaver site shows:

Thanks for mentioning the wire color. When I first saw the wire I thought it was solid orange; when in reality it was orange/green & white/black.
I've attached a better pic with a closeup of the wiring. I'm pretty positive it's that one as I couldnt really find anything else in that area with that color scheme.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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That's it. The O/G is hot when the ignition is on. When the switch is closed, current is passed to the W/B wire.
 

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Cat Herder
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Thanks for showing another way of mounting it. Looks pretty clean.

I just ordered mine last night...can't wait to get it wired up.
 

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Cat Herder
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The 09 DL650's have a nice extra bump in the tool tray (for no reason that I can see). It makes placement of the PC8 very interesting.



Because of that, I followed your method and installed an aluminum plate as well.

 

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I put mine in last week, and ran into the bump. :-( I'm with you, I can't figure out what purpose the bump serves. Must be something the help with the manufacturing of the fender. I just used a velcro strip to mount the PC-8, but I'm not happy with it. I may pursue the plate option.
 

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Cat Herder
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I put mine in last week, and ran into the bump. :-( I'm with you, I can't figure out what purpose the bump serves. Must be something the help with the manufacturing of the fender. I just used a velcro strip to mount the PC-8, but I'm not happy with it. I may pursue the plate option.
$5 at Lowe's. I just used my table to bend it into place. I velco'ed that in place incase I need to change anything.
 

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PC8 install

I was able to fit the pc8 the other way in front of the bump, but have to pull it up if I install any other accessories. Currently I am using the pc8 for an aux outlet, headlight relay kit, and a horn relay kit. All wired with Jim's wiring harnesses, which make the job infinitely easier.
 

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my system (fuse block with wee wiring, 2 automotive outlets and the headlight relay kit) shiped today so may copy the metal plate idea. Also seen someone on here using abracket to mount the fuse panal. Anyone else got other ideas :D
 

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Cat Herder
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I was able to fit the pc8 the other way in front of the bump, but have to pull it up if I install any other accessories. Currently I am using the pc8 for an aux outlet, headlight relay kit, and a horn relay kit. All wired with Jim's wiring harnesses, which make the job infinitely easier.
All of those are next on my list (once the wife gives me the approval to spend more $$)
 

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Cat Herder
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my system shiped today so may copy the metal plate idea. Also seen someone on here using abracket to mount the fuse panal. Anyone else got other ideas :D
Jim at EB suggest using spacers to get over the bump. You could probably measure the height difference between where you'd mount it, then get some blocks or round spacers to level the height out front to back.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Since I've never blown a fuse on a bike and almost all of the add on electrical stuff is in the front, I put my PC-8 in the left cowling bump out. The Stebel horn is in the right. Both come out with the fairing when the bike comes apart. It would be a bit harder to change a fuse if that's ever needed, but keeping the under seat area free for stuff that needs to be accessed more often seemed like a good idea. So far, I'm liking it just fine.

 

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Since I've never blown a fuse on a bike and almost all of the add on electrical stuff is in the front, I put my PC-8 in the left cowling bump out. The Stebel horn is in the right. Both come out with the fairing when the bike comes apart. It would be a bit harder to change a fuse if that's ever needed, but keeping the under seat area free for stuff that needs to be accessed more often seemed like a good idea. So far, I'm liking it just fine.

considering how much water I see getitng in there somthing tells me I will be doing the under seat install lol :thumbup: but nice idea.

I am thinking wood block to mount the metal plate to (cutting out a U to cover that bump) and then mount with screwes to wood through mets. Basiclay metal becomes a looks thing that gets painted black. Mi bike is on all black diet lol.
 
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