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I just finished installing a Blue Sea 5025 that I purchased from http://www.northeastmarineelectronics.com/. I chose to wire it hot directly to the battery (no relay) so I can have constant power for my air compressor. Other farkles (heated grips, Stebel air horn) will be switched with relays.

I used SS 8-32 screws, washers, and nuts with a dab of silicone underneath the splashguard. I also used 1/2" spacers to keep the fuse block level above a protrusion.

Notice the color-matched ring connectors (like the faster blue paint, they conduct better than yellow or red).



A couple of rubber grommets clean up the holes to the battery, but are probably not necessary with the plastic (vs. metal). The black screw covers hide the slightly too long screws.



My signature installation includes these nifty little screw covers to keep everything tidy.



The next add will be a cigarette adapter, then a Stebel air horn, then Dual Star heated grips cannibalized off the Ninja 250 (not enough power to run them).

 

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You made this look too easy. Thanks for the pics-
 

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I noticed you're not using a relay. Just be sure to turn everything off so you don't drain your battery after the ride.
 

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lajaro said:
I noticed you're not using a relay. Just be sure to turn everything off so you don't drain your battery after the ride.
I was going to say the same thing. You might want put a relay on this unit rather all the stuff, individually, you add to this unit.

Nice job in any case.
 

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I should have also said that it's a nice clean instalaltion and inspires me to put mine back in with spacers.
 

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Great job! I am getting ready to install mine in a few days when my Stiebl horn gets here. Thanks for the pics.
 

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Fast Traveller said:
I added a few more things. I also used double sided tape to mount the block.

http://homepage.mac.com/mike.bothe/PhotoAlbum30.html
Ah..the farkling has really begun!

I noticed you used the mini Add-a-Circult . Do you leave the cover open or can you close it (I couldn't close mine when I tried to use that item)?

Also, where did you get that handle bar mounted switch?
 

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lajaro said:
Fast Traveller said:
I added a few more things. I also used double sided tape to mount the block.

http://homepage.mac.com/mike.bothe/PhotoAlbum30.html
Ah..the farkling has really begun!

I noticed you used the mini Add-a-Circult . Do you leave the cover open or can you close it (I couldn't close mine when I tried to use that item)?

Also, where did you get that handle bar mounted switch?
I just leave the cover open. I guess I should sort it, but haven't given much thought to just how. The switch is the PTT for the autocomm radio interface.
 

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I used the Contec aux fuse box 1/2 the size and like others said you need to use a relay and a main fuse.
 
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805gregg said:
I used the Contec aux fuse box 1/2 the size and like others said you need to use a relay and a main fuse.
I disagree on the need for a relay for the fuse block. I chose to wire the fuse block hot and will use a relay to control heated grips (on/off), a relay for a Stebel horn (load only - the stock horn button is already switched), and no relay for a 12v plug to run my air compressor. If I were running a bunch of farkles that needed to be switched (GPS, cell phone, lights), I'd relay the fuse block, but I only plan on heated grips which need to be switched.

I don't need a main fuse as each circuit off the block is fused.

One can relay and main fuse the fuse block but it is not required.

Tom
 

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I wrote up this 5025 block for another site, but here is my installation. It really is a handy and clean connection gadget.

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I brought a Blue Sea Fuse Block as a show-and-tell at the last Tarrant County and Johnson County M&Gs. Here are the results of my labors:

This is the 5025 6-circuit fuse block with a common ground (negative bus):

Manufacturer's link is here.

Why do you want to use this thing? After you add a couple of electrical items and connect them to both terminals of the battery, they look ugly and may require you to get a longer bolt for the terminals (or you may try to tighten it forever without pushing the hidden terminal nut up). Plus, all these things you add should be fused and all these extra in-line holders can look ugly, too.

This box allows you to run a negative wire and a positive wire from the battery to it and then connect all the devices to the fuse block. Makes for neater wiring arrangement and also makes it a little easier to chase wires and fuses should a problem arise.

I had three devices (just for a real-world example):
Stebel Air Horn power with an inline fuse to a Bosch relay
Custom Dynamics LED flasher
PowerLet power socket (for AutoCom or air pump)

All of these had inline fuses. The airhorn fuse was easy to remove but I left the flasher and Powerlet fuses in because it was easier. They are "doubly" protected. :roll:

One issue is that all of these circuits are "hot" - they supply power whether the key is On or not. One advantage of this is that the flasher will run without the key if I ever have to leave the bike somewhere in an emergency. The disadvantage is that it can drain the battery (not as bad with the LED signals, though). I will probably eventually relay the PowerLet and maybe the flasher. The horn switch already requires power to be on, so it is already covered.

Here is the mounted and wired fuse box in my DL650 V-Strom:


With the cover removed:


Here is a slightly different angle:


Finally, here is an annotated picture:


:oops: Well, after I took the pictures, I noticed that I had three circuits but only two fuses. I forgot to plug in one for the PowerLet. Without the fuse, it gets no power, so it was back out to the bike to plug a 20 amper in... :oops:

These are available online, of course, one place is here for $32.14.

I saw the same Blue Sea product at the Bass Pro Shop in Grapevine today in the Marine Electrical section. They sell it for $35 and the the 12-circuit version (5026) for $45. If ya gotta have it now & you are in the DFW area, this is a good place to get it locally. (I also have an extra if you need it at midnight in Arlington) :roll:

Here is what the package looks like iffn ya go lookin':


Cool product...
 

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Toma Nova, nice clean neat professional look. Do the blue connectors really make the power go faster ??
 

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I'm ignorant to most things electrical though I can carry out basic electrical installations/fixes.

I've ordered a Blue Seas block from a local marine dealer, and at work we have a certified technician who is fully qualified to Australian standards for household and automotive electrics. I'm going to buy him a slab to do the fitting of the fuse block to my Strom, but have one question about relays.

Relays are mentioned a few times here so do I have to purchase a separate relay for the fuse block or do I hook it into an existing bike relay. If the latter where and how and if the former what relay do I purchase and how do I hook that in?

Thanks for you help in advance and thanks for the great pics and explanations here, I could even attempt this installation myself with the printout of this page.
 

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If you put a relay into the setup it will supply no power when the key is turned off. I used the taillight wire as the "switch" for my relay and Blue Sea fuse block 8)
 

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boomslanger said:
Relays are mentioned a few times here so do I have to purchase a separate relay for the fuse block or do I hook it into an existing bike relay. If the latter where and how and if the former what relay do I purchase and how do I hook that in.
Here is one way to only apply power to the fuse box when the key is on:

This means you need to run wires from the heated grips connector (once you find it!) but you won't have to find and splice into anything else.
 

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Oops. I have a set of Oxford heated grips that the dealer installed direct to battery. After returning from shopping twice and once from McDonalds to find someone had switched it on and turned it up full, I decided to hook it to the ignition.

Following Strom Electrics 101 I found a thickish orange wire under an existing Strom fuse block and have spliced my Oxford positive into that (with tinning and professional leccy tape, leaving the existing Oxford inline fuse in place.

This orange wire is a major Strom connection as with it cut I lost most of the major electrics. I will get my techie mate to desolder the splice and rejoin the existing Strom orange wire, then see if I can get a relay (a gather a cage one will do?) and hook that to the number plate light connection. I don't want to go looking for the existing heated grip plug, pulling half the bike apart.

Anything else that can trip me up before I part with a slab?

Thanks for the advice and diagrams so far?
 

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Those are some nice installs, I was leaning towards the Blue Sea but in the end decided to trya Centech AP-1. Anyway it arrived today from Andrew at Adventureworkshop and here is my install. at the moment I only wired two circuits but still have my stebel to install plus a fourth. I'll probably tear it all out again and redo it but I think it went OK for a first go. I also used a relay powered by my heated grips plug that previously powered my cig plug. (Also a big thanks to richlandrick for the front accesory panel.) One thing I found was at a local surplus store they had Monster amplifier wiring kits for $10 so I picked one up and used the fused 10ga for the + and the silver 10ga for the -. The kit also came with lots of loom and misc wires. Well worth the $$. BTW my little wires are the battery tender leds, I think I will incorporate that into the relay with the 87a and the grouNd bus of the Centech.


 
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