[Paul13DL]

My 2013 650 V-Strom started and ran for about 5 minutes, and Died. After 3-month rest.
The 10-year-old Battery was at 25% it turns out.
I charged it, and it had finally turned Funky. So bought a new DEKA battery, and still won't start. I've checked fuses and added Di-electric grease to them.
Could it be the fuel filter...? The next step is The Shop..."
NOTE:
THANKS for the replies.!
Is there an OBD diagnostic plug for my '13 WEE.???
we've had here in the Sierras a few BLIZZARDS. As such working/riding has been a last priority... 3= 14- 2023

 

[Rolex]

More information will be required to get you pointed in the right direction.

Try the fuel flow test,

 

[Gert]

Not starting as in the engine not cranking or turning over, engine turning over but not starting, engine starts but fails to idle after the fast idle cuts out?

 

[twenty]

three month old gas, if it's not ethanol free or treated, i'd start there.

 

[Wee van Cleef]

Likely not the problem, but dielectric grease is an insulator. It should not go where metal contacts metal, when you want electrical conduction.

 

[D.T.]

DIelectric grease keeps the oxidation off the dry contacts. Keeps corrosion at bay. Usually tin plated copper.

You can get conductive grease too.

I'd keep trying to run the old gas out of it. Or remove it and put fresh gas in. I'd go with 91 octane non-oxygenated.

You can crack the throttle if it's over rich to lean it out and start it.

 

[Fox]

Three months is not enough for gasoline to get that bad.

If it's cranking but not starting, use a jumper cable to hook up to a much larger battery, then try again. Crack the throttle a little while you do it to see if you can coax it to life. It can take a LOT of cranking - I just had the same 'issue' with my high miles street-parked '06 650 (sat since November) and took maybe 25 seconds on and off before it finally started. This is a yearly ritual in the spring.

edit: You could also try a little starting fluid into the air intake. It shouldn't be necessary, but it might save you hundreds of dollars at a shop where some idiot will break your plastics and lose your fasteners.

If that doesn't work, proceed with a fuel flow test.

 

[Wee van Cleef]

DIelectric grease keeps the oxidation off the dry contacts. Keeps corrosion at bay. Usually tin plated copper.

Yea I guess it wouldn't hurt anything. I've used it on spark plug and lamp boots. But never between metallic connections. I'd liken it to painting a connector. When you attach, the metal will scrape through the paint and make a connection. But grease is easier to get through than paint.

 

[richlandrick]

Another vote for bad gas, dirt, and water, in the fuel system. I live just west of Charlotte and it has been a continuing problem every spring.

 

[twenty]

Three months is not enough for gasoline to get that bad.

depending on how its stored, ethanol gas starts going bad (water absorbtion / phase seperation) within a few weeks. 3 months in a half full / vented motorcycle gas tank will definitely lead to issues. the ethanol/water mix sinks to the bottom of the tank where the fuel pick up is.

modern cars analyze the gas and adjust fueling to allow the water to pass through the engine, our bikes and other small engines do not.

 

[Fox]

depending on how its stored, ethanol gas starts going bad (water absorbtion / phase seperation) within a few weeks. 3 months in a half full / vented motorcycle gas tank will definitely lead to issues. the ethanol/water mix sinks to the bottom of the tank where the fuel pick up is.

modern cars analyze the gas and adjust fueling to allow the water to pass through the engine, our bikes and other small engines do not.

I still don't agree that the passive water absorption from the atmosphere over a three month period will lead to issues without some other factor at play like a clogged tank ring drain hole. I've had many different bikes sit for months at a time in rain snow and otherwise and it usually doesn't play out that way. It might be more hesitant to run, but it will usually run.

Apologies to OP as I didn't notice before that it ran for 5 minutes before stopping. This is a strong indication of contaminated fuel and/or clogged filter. To add to earlier advice, I recommend adding HEET to absorb any water, shake it up, let it sit a while and try the whole startup routine again. Also check your tank ring and make sure that the drain hole is clear. Marine grime around that ring is a dead giveaway of a blockage. I've learned not to park my bike under trees after experiencing something similar.

 

[D.T.]

PF has some cool videos on HEET and various things...

 

[Paul13DL]

Dielectric grease keeps the oxidation off the dry contacts. Keeps corrosion at bay. Usually tin-plated copper.

You can get conductive grease too.

I'd keep trying to run the old gas out of it. Or remove it and put fresh gas in. I'd go with 91-octane non-oxygenated.

You can crack the throttle if it's over-rich to lean it out and start it.

YOU ARE Correct Di-Electric grease insulates electrical connections from CORROSION.
I have tried OPENING THE THROTTLE when CRANKING the engine, with a NEW BATTERY.
No Joy... Thanks. IS THERE an OBD PLUG to troubleshoot my '13' Wee.???

 

[Paul13DL]

Three months is not enough for gasoline to get that bad.

If it's cranking but not starting, use a jumper cable to hook up to a much larger battery, then try again. Crack the throttle a little while you do it to see if you can coax it to life. It can take a LOT of cranking - I just had the same 'issue' with my high miles street-parked '06 650 (sat since November) and took maybe 25 seconds on and off before it finally started. This is a yearly ritual in the spring.

edit: You could also try a little starting fluid into the air intake. It shouldn't be necessary, but it might save you hundreds of dollars at a shop where some idiot will break your plastics and lose your fasteners.

If that doesn't work, proceed with a fuel flow test.

I have not tried cranking for more than 20-25 seconds at a time.
This is THE FIRST time I've had ANY STARTING Problems with my Wee.
My miles are at about 21,000 as of this month.

 

[Paul13DL]

Not starting as in the engine not cranking or turning over, engine turning over but not starting, the engine starts but fails to idle after the fast idle cuts out?

THANKS,
Engine cranks and No moving of THROTTLE have an effect. With a new battery, fully charged.

 

[Gert]

Lets start at the beginning. Any FI light or dealer mode code displayed? What is this apparent dead end connector ??? As posted above, a strong fully charged battery is required for testing.
If no dealer mode code, starting from the time that you turn on the ingition, do you hear the fuel pump prime?
Do the secondary throttle valve butterflies move / chatter? Basically the STV gets self calibrated as the STVA cycles through it's range of motion. For the STV inspection you may have to remove the fuel tank, open the air box lid and remove the air filter. You will now should be able to see the STV in each throttle body. Note that there are two butterfly flaps in each throttle body. The top butterfly is the one that you, in this case, are looking at.
If everything has passed thus far, do the fuel flow test as suggested. Quick fuel pump flow test.

If all the above pass their respective tests, the next test is for spark on both the front and rear cylinder. A method to check for spark would be to remove a spark plug, snap the now loose spark plug back into the spark plug cap and then ground the exposed spark plug thread to a good known ground. At that point look for spark at the plug gap while cranking. Note there may be a shock involved if not ground correctly. There won't be any spark unless the ECU is happy with it's ignition on the startup test. (ignition / crankshaft position sensor / fuel pump prime / etc). Note that any water that may have collected around the spark plug could possibly shunt the spark to the motor, so make sure that the spark plug well is dry. There are weep holes that should normally drain any water away from the spark plug well.

Since you are my eyes on that end, I think that further feedback is now required from you, on which of these tests have passed, before I start with the next set of steps in trying to help you solve the problem on your ride.

 

[D.T.]

You need the FI light to blink for there to be a problem and a code to be read. Jumper paper clip will work.

Ignition fuse open?

Need to hear the fuel pump run first. Check the spark plugs for spark.

 

[D.T.]

modern cars analyze the gas and adjust fueling to allow the water to pass through the engine, our bikes and other small engines do not.

Some use the oxygen sensors, which the 2012+ has, to detect a lean condition. I.E. ethanol.

Some have a fuel sensor which the fuel actually passes through.

 

[Bikehigh]

I have not tried cranking for more than 20-25 seconds at a time.
This is THE FIRST time I've had ANY STARTING Problems with my Wee.
My miles are at about 21,000 as of this month.

I forget how many miles I had on my Glee when I did the fuel filter mod and replaced the pump, but it was somewhere in that range. The filter built into the pump is ridiculously small for the job and gets clogged, sounds like this is most likely what's happening. Even if not the problem now, it's a mod that eventually will need doing.

Having top crank the engine with the throttle pinned for an extended period of time is something you become familiar with on these bikes. Usually happens after the bike has been leaned over and parked for a couple days, with little fuel in the tank. But it doesn't happen predictably. It's not common for me, but it's not uncommon either. Doesn't make a lot of sense, but there it is. If you haven't done it, give it a try. If you think the starter is gonna fry, keep cranking. Yeah, that Heet stuff is probably a good idea too.