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First post here. I've used this site a lot for info and wanted to contribute. I'm sharing this just in case anyone has similar issues.

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Background: I picked up an 04 with 50k in "ready to ride across the country" condition and extensive maintenance records. I was coming off of a Versys 650 and had never ridden a Vee before.
Test ride was good, bike rode super smooth but smelled rich. It had a power commander on it, I thought the rich smell was a map issue. Good enough, I got the bike. On the 75 mile ride home I emptied the tank, getting about 22 mpg. The Vee felt stronger than the Versys but did not pull as hard as I thought it would.

Troubleshooting:
Checked tire pressure. 15 F, 17 rear (hence the smooth ride). Front was scalloped. Pulled the power commander, bike ran the same. Check throttle body sync, it was really far off. I decided to pull it apart and do a complete checkup.
K&N filter in the airbox, most of the airbox screws were stripped, lid was loose. There was dust in the airbox. Bad soft brake lines, cooling hoses looked tired. Throttle cables sheath was worn through and rust had started making the occasional sticky spot. Rear pads were 1mm. Grips were loose and worn. All were replaced.
Secondary butterflies were missing

Ebay provided a nice complete low mile 09 throttle body for $50.

Installed and synced the secondaries, installed OEM air filter, changed the oil that smelled strongly of gas, set the TPS per the guidance on this site (it was about as far out of adjustment as it can be), went for a ride. The rich smell was gone but now I had a horrible rattling noise from 2500 to 3500 RPM and the dreaded lean popping reared it's head. I also noticed that slipping the clutch at higher RPMs was quite the carnival ride, very jerky. grab-release-grab-release anytime above 3k rpm while in the clutch friction zone.

(Werks clutch came on the bike) Clutch steel plates were blued and warped, pushrod was covered in grease that has hardened to stone. New OEM clutch , pushrod, pushrod seal, sprockets and chain just for good measure. I went with 17/44 and chain was just barely long enough with the stock length. I should have made it 1 link longer. EBC screw masterlink worked great btw. Checked the magnets, they had already been JB welded. Put the power commander back, used a pretty tame map. Clutch issues fixed.

So at this point, I only had the low RPM rattle and a new problem popped up, a surge around 4k after riding for an hour. I put quite a few miles on it in this condition.

Getting tired of the noise and surging I decided to go after it again. I The TPS used appears to be the same on used on the 1st gen FZ6, which had a TPS recall. Being full of distrust, I ordered a new one. Pulled the skidplate, crashbars, and centerstand. Vibration was slightly reduced. Put a closeout set of trailsmart tires on, even less vibration but the 2500 to 3500 was still there.

On a whim I poured some seafoam in the tank. The low rpm rattles and shakes almost immediately started smoothing out. Since something changed, I decided to redo the TBS. That went horribly wrong. The bike was warming up and started to pop, miss and behave very badly. Then, a big pop, the rear throttle body came out of the boot.
time do tear it all down and do a complete check. I found the oil vapor filter had disintegrated and was all over the airbox and had gotten into the intake. Chunks were sitting on the intake valves. Rear plug was black and wet, front was bone white.
Inspection found the compression was 170/172 and all the valve clearances were in spec. Whew. Rear injector was a mess and blue oil came out. I think that the seafoam did not mix completely with the gas, and when the fuel got low it started sucking straight seafoam.

I did the secondary throttle position sensor adjustment, it was also way off, installed the new TPS which had just arrived, safety wired the throttle bodies on, silicon oil treatment on all the intake rubber parts, set up fast idle adjustment (I didn't even know it was supposed to fast idle), replaced the injectors with the low mile spares, fuel flow test ok, and put it all back together all by the book.

Pic because people like them.
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Fired right up, did the TPS sync again. Wow, it idles great now. Before my idle bounced around 300 rpm, now I'd almost describe it as smooth. Fast idle worked! That was a bit of a pain to set up.

Power commander (PCFC) disabled, bike runs almost like it should. I might add a touch of fuel between 2k and 3800 but all seems mostly well. After 6 months of unfocused fiddling, $1k in parts and a couple of tools, I'm happy with the bike now. I ride almost 100% 2up and was getting around 38mpg before replacing the injectors. I've not checked mileage since my last round of changes.

"ready to ride across the country" condition, hah.

What I learned and kinda the point of this post. I let my enthusiasm of getting a different bike overshadow the flaws I should have questioned more thoroughly and it cost me time that I would rather have spent riding.
 

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Sounds about right. Sorry for all your issues, but at least you truly know what you have under you. Couple of years ago I bought a well equipped Vee with little less than 50K on it. Came with some service records but I have gone from front to rear checking for myself. I think it is time well spent.
 

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I didn't read the whole write up, attention deficit disorder. I wanted to get to the picture. Loved it. Great composition and the colors and lighting are really nice. The setting compliments the bike. Looks like the bike is trying to impale a sacrificial water bottle too.
Now if the jist of the article is you worked your butt off and the bike runs well now and you are happy, goody!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks,
Summary: works, could be better. Throw parts at it until I'm out of "could be better". It's a wonderful bike now.

Also, thanks about the picture. Pure luck, I could not see the phone screen when I took it.
 

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Sounds similar to my 04, but what do you expect from a 16 year old bike. If I am honest I am about 2k over a 2200 purchase for a bike that looked great, except for the tires and some sketchy ufo lighting and a few factory defects and deficiencies that I would have known about if I did 15 minutes of research. But it works well now and I have to keep it long enough to get a couple k of enjoyment out of it.
 

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Cletus,
You write well. Sorry for the trials. Glad for the results. Nice pond you've got there.
Jathkajoe
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I guess I complained enough in the 1st post, now go over what worked well. After all, I kinda wrote that up as me in March as the target reader.

1st off. The Seargent saddle is a very comfortable place to sit. My longest day was only 350 miles, it could have been much more.

I replaced touratech brush guards with the inexpensive and very nice suzuki knuckle guards. Im not doing single-track and the change allows me to hit the stops steering.

For me the trailsmart tires are perfect. Handles great and very quiet.

Oem mirrors got replaced by blue tinted MZS import mirrors. No more getting blinded at night by tailgating trucks.

Kawell branded generic 20w led driving lights work well. Kit comes with 1 spot and 1 wide beam.

Of course the madstad screen is indispensable.

I've had lots of bikes and this one fit best. It's a keeper.
 

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The Vee needs to be ridden at 4k RPM and above always, it is a racing engine, it is not a cruiser, so if your complaining about things in the 2.5 to 3.5k range, your in the wrong gear. Riding it like that can cause all kinds of issues, as you experienced, and it seems you spent a lot of extra money fixing things that may not have been broken.
But in the end, you ended up with something you like, so that is good, and you certainly know the insides of it, you just need to rev it up a bit more.. actually quite a lot more. :)
 

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The Vee needs to be ridden at 4k RPM and above always, it is a racing engine, it is not a cruiser, so if your complaining about things in the 2.5 to 3.5k range, your in the wrong gear. Riding it like that can cause all kinds of issues, as you experienced, and it seems you spent a lot of extra money fixing things that may not have been broken.
But in the end, you ended up with something you like, so that is good, and you certainly know the insides of it, you just need to rev it up a bit more.. actually quite a lot more. :)
This is true?
I have a 2018 1000xt and always shift up around 4K rpm and have no problems lugging her around town. Rarely do I rev above 4K, highway speeds run around 5k.
I rode a TL1000R to work for 3 years doing the same never had any issues out of that engine either. So I’m curious where this information came from, or what I’m damaging riding easy.
 

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The Vee needs to be ridden at 4k RPM and above always, it is a racing engine, it is not a cruiser, so if your complaining about things in the 2.5 to 3.5k range, your in the wrong gear. Riding it like that can cause all kinds of issues, as you experienced, and it seems you spent a lot of extra money fixing things that may not have been broken.
But in the end, you ended up with something you like, so that is good, and you certainly know the insides of it, you just need to rev it up a bit more.. actually quite a lot more. :)
Calling BS.
I ride a lot at 3-3500. Lug down to 2500 easily. Tuned properly my 02 will run under 4k all day long.
 

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WOW what a labor of love, good on you for getting it all sorted out, you NOW have a highly dependable machine which will no doubt serve you well. :)
 

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Yes. I have a PC with the stock PC map which eliminates the stick lean condition. No other mods.
 

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Do you have a power commander? I would agree that in general my 04 is a lot happier above 4000 rpm - no aftermarket tuning devices.
You would be amazed at what a PCFC would do for your under 4,000 RPM running problem. Our bikes come from the factory very lean in order to pass emissions tests. Very lean under 4,000 that is. Rich in the WOT range, as it should be. You can get the problem fixed by getting the unit "flashed" also, but for the cost of doing that, a PCFC allows you to adjust it any time you want to try a change.
 

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Yeah, just another few hundred to add to the pile fixing things that shouldn't be an issue. I'm glad the other bike works well from the factory 😁
 

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Never owned one...🤷‍♂️
 

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I bought an 06 1000 with around 30K on it. I asked about service records and the guy basically said that his mechanic told him the bike doesn't need anything other than oil and gas (he had those records), and that V-Strom valves don't need adjusting. I knew that was false having owned 4 others (3 1000s and a 650), and there was a lot of audible valve noise, but the bike was cheap so I bought it. He advertised as owned by a MSF instructor and that it was in impeccable shape. I knew it needed a valve adjustment, but when I got it home and checked, the front intake valves were almost too tight to check, .02 and .04 vs. a .1-.2 recommended clearance. There was a crack in the cam gear and a couple of teeth missing, so the cam had to be replaced, plus valves, seals, springs, etc. $1,000 later and it runs almost like new. I say almost as a bike with now 50K miles isn't going to be like new. Apparently it takes a $1,000 to get an older poorly maintained V back in shape, as the OP experienced.
 

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I like the post. I didn't view it as griping, rather a lesson learned that you are sharing. Now that you have it mostly sorted, you have a bike that you know mechanically. That's definitely a plus if you plan on some long rides.
 

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Calling BS.
I ride a lot at 3-3500. Lug down to 2500 easily. Tuned properly my 02 will run under 4k all day long.
I totally agree. My Vee 02 runs very well with none of the mentioned rideability issues. I don't have the history on the bike, it has no Power Commander, so I'm thinking the ECU has been reprogrammed at some time during its previous life(s). I don't make a habit of running it at 2500 but it is completely capable of doing so especially after the clutch basket mod by Terry.

For the record my example has a K&N drop-in air filter and Remus slip-on mufflers.
 
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