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Discussion Starter #21
so, bike is 2017, "it has" 22.000 km in the clock: the oil on one of the forks was like honey or like jam. how..??

exhaust valve spec is 0.20-0.30, mine was 0.19.

hope this is still "normal"

no issues btw..
 

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so, bike is 2017, "it has" 22.000 km in the clock: the oil on one of the forks was like honey or like jam. how..??

exhaust valve spec is 0.20-0.30, mine was 0.19.

hope this is still "normal"

no issues btw..
Well, the valve clearance would be normal for the first 22,000 kms and should be adjusted closer to the 0.3mm gap. You may never have to do it again - only to check at the given intervals.

The fork oil is not right. I am very surprised it would be that thick - especially at such low kms. I would change that and expect the bike to ride and handle nicer. Maybe the previous owner put a heavy fork oil in as a way to reduce front end dive on braking. If so, that is not the correct solution. Put it back to normal and ride it for a while. Then you know what to adjust or change to make it better for YOU.

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter #23
hiya,

of course, we set all the valve clearances, and also did full front suspension service. we used 10W REPSOL, we set front suspension all "clickers" to default, in 8-10 deg. celsius I rode for half a day, I find the front suspension a little "harsh". maybe 10W oil + cold weather + needs a little tuning on the clickers.
I still are a little bit suspicious if the previous owner (our national suzuki dealer...) did not cheated a little with the clock (it showed 22.600 km) beacuse I found a tiny crack in one of the plastics, also one foil decor is not original and done by a moron's hand, also the suzuki logo is missing. maybe they fell with the bike, maybe even they had to replace one of the front suspensions, who knows. also, bike stand afterwards for a half a year behind glass in a heated suzuki dealership, maybe sun heated one side of the fork so much, that the oil got to jelly?
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we did not found any marks on any of the body or front fork , not any damage, not any screw been untightened before us.

p.s. I would like to replace the cigarette lighter plug with a 2x USB socket, is the cigarette lighter 's electric connection switched off when the key is turned off? (so that the USB adapters do not deplete my batt?)

also I'm planning to put on CNC parts which make the mirrors "wider", donno its name. extender thingy.

269724


also I would like to know if mine had a recall, will check later





269727
 

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It looks like yours may have had some events in it's life before you bought it. Maybe the dealer was covering some stuff up. Definitely a poor job on that decal. I didn't think it was very easy to doctor a digital odometer, but I guess a dealer would know how and have the electronic tools to do it.

I think the 22,000 kms is correct, but they may have been a bit harder than average kilometers. From the look of the air filter it seems the bike may have spent significant time on dirt roads or maybe even some off road. This could explain a drop that made a decal replacement necessary. There are bikes the have the original fork oil for many years and it doesn't turn to jelly. Again, off road scenario, maybe the previous owner was inexperienced and trying to stiffen the forks the wrong way with the wrong oil. That decal may be the previous owner's work, too.

No matter, she is yours now and you are getting her sorted out.

Yes, they are called mirror extenders and are a very good addition. Plug a phone charger or something into the cigarette lighter socket to see if it is powered with the ignition off. I don't know if that was a factory item or added by the previous owner. Your bike is newer than my experience.

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
hello there.

anybody know the type of this plug? (it is the cigarette lighter adapter). I have a round USB adapter fit to that space, would not cut the plug, would like to buy another and solder it.

thx!

269828
 

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Discussion Starter #30
my large beam is pointing to the sky.

do the M10 bolt (with phillips slot in it) rotates INDEPENDENTLY from the larger "washer" plate underneath??? (which has a slot for a screwdriver to reach in from underneath??)


which screw sets what beam in what direction exactly???

269947
 

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Discussion Starter #32
ADVICE NEEDED !

we put in motul 5100 10W 40 oil.

I do NOT how was it before with old oil. as I remember, MAYBE the bike produced this phenomenon with another oil too:

scenario:

bike is IN MOVEMENT, rolling
I start with 1. gear, BUT I gibe a little-more-than-average throttle (I want to have a little bit more momentum reserve)
I pull clutch, want to put 2. gear
NO MATTER if I am butter smooth on shifter lever, or I press it harder with my foot:
I MISS gear 2, there is a strong metal-on-metal banging noise
Immediately I see, bike is in NEUTRAL
I released clutch because I was thinking I got 2
I pull clutch again, put 2, success

why could this be? I miss 2 when I give JUST A LITTLE BIT more throttle in 1? (to rev the bike just a little bit more before shifting?)

advice pls.
 

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Well, I have now some experience with V-Strom's shifting, I'm on my third. The oil has to do a lot with shifting, that is true. But, on V-Strom, you have to be quick on shifting. One of my previous V-Stroms had the same problem between 1st and 2nd. That was a day when I started to use preload on shifting. It took some time to get used to it but now I do it without thinking and it always shifts nicely. So the oil is one factor. The second factor is how quickly you shift. If you do it slowly, revs go down and it makes shifting more difficult. If you use preload, there is no time for revs to go down. Third factor is, when are you shifting. If you're at 2500 rpm and you try to shift to any gear up, it will be harder. If you try to shift when higher then 3500 rpm, it'll be easier as bike was designed to always run over 3000 rpm, even when cruising. And fortth factor is chain slack. If you keep it adjusted just as in Owner's Manual, not any other way, it'll help a lot with shifting.
I tried a lot of different oils, semi and fully synthetic. Some brands are good for couple a thousand miles and then shifting get worse. At the end I settled with MOTUL 7100 10W40 MA2 and I'm more then happy for years now.
At the end, look at this video about preload, it may help:
 

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Discussion Starter #34
exactly what I get from interwebs other phorums too. oil IS a factor but not 100%. people recommend to shift to 2 AS I MEAN IT. they recommend to KEEP the shifter lever in position with my feet till I release the clutch. your preload trick was not mentioned but I get the idea and will definitely try.

my problem is totally there and can be reproduced anytime when I want to shift to 2, from 1, at HIGHER rev's, lets say, wife is on the bike too, or I want to go a slight uphill or want to have momentum reserve in the bike and I rev above 3.000 like 3500-4.000.

the tought of "its by design" is calming. varadero 1000 friens report this too. thx m8!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
shifting from 1 to 2:

I have best success when "shifting like I mean it" (holding shift lever with foot firmly in 2 position when releasing the clutch). not KICKING shifting lever..just making sure it is staying there up in gear 2.

lights topic:

 

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as mentioned, preloading the shifter is the key to super smooth up shifts, especially through neutral. it doesn't take much pressure but as soon as you pull the clutch it just pops straight into second.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
shifting:
wht worked for me is "shifting like I mean it" which means holding the shifter lever at upshifted position while putting in to 2nd gear and then releasing the clutch.

new rubber for summer:

272737
 

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Discussion Starter #39
we succeeded "truing" the cross-spoked v-strom wheel.

trick was:

pre-soak the spoke screws with thread lockener or WD40
loosen ALL the spokes'screws, just a little.
start to tighten all the screws, with "screwdriver" style hex tool. do NOT use wrench tool: 1 click too much and rim "bends" in strange manner instead of moving as desired.
finish hand-tightening all the spokes screws, make sure rim is round in stand. spoke's screws are "wedge" shaped, will hold a grip nicely.

our rim is now as if it has been machined round !
 

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Discussion Starter #40
this photo was taken on a 2018 1000XT. look, the japanese put a thermal protecting tube around the rear brake cable. what do you think should I retrofit my 2017 like this on next fluid change?

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