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mounting options for a pelican top case

4404 Views 17 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Sky-on-Strom
So I’m thinking of buying a cheap harbor freight pelican case, drilling some holes in the bottom, and mounting it as a top case on my 2017 650. I’ve seen plenty of forum posts about using pelican cases as a top case, some people have even specifically used the harbor freight cases. But I’m wondering what these people are doing to mount the cases to the bike. I don’t really want to just directly bolt the case to the stock plastic rack, but I can’t seem to find many rear racks to take the stock rack’s place/bolt on top of the stock rack. Maybe bolting it onto the stock rack is ok?

I just purchased this one on amazon because it’s the cheapest I could find/quickest delivery because I need it in 7 days. But I was wondering if anyone else knew of racks that you can install to the back of the bike that allow you to easily bolt on a pelican case.
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You could possibly look at adapting a 1st gen 650/1000 04-12 steel Suzuki accy luggage rack. Drill new mounting holes...add spacers if needed....a bit of tweaking...even cutting/welding....its steel

NOTE: this sez 02 but its actually an 04-12 accy rac

Also mabe look at the 02-03 DL1000 rack assy made by 5 Stars for the Suzy/Kappa luggage. Also Steel tubing so easily modded

Or use this kit & also get support arms...
This kit is a copy of the Givi SR3112 kit but with several slots to allow for various plate/case mounting options.

A quick release mounting can easily be adapted using simple hdw like SW Motech or Givi Monokey bobbins or even simpler...hdw store items.

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I mounted my Harbor freight pelican knock off using three bolts and the OEM rack.

I replaced the two front mounting blots with longer bolts, spacers and some fender washers. The I used the same bolt size, a nut and a couple of fender washers and place one hole toward the back side and bottom of case and just ran it thru the rack. No drilling of the rack.

I believe I used the Apache 3800 case. I use it to replace my tank bag and carry some stuff I always carry in my side cases. I don't know how much weight I cary in the case but it does have an air compressor and patch kit, tools, straps, gloves and the other junk one may carry all the time.

I have a several hundred mile on the bike since I installed and it is solid and has not fallen off.
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I don't know how much of a DIY guy you are, but I'll show these photos just in case they give you some ideas on how to adapt them for your use. The luggage rack in the photos is homemade, cut out from a piece of 3/16" aluminum plate. You may be able to purchase a commercial luggage rack with slots and adapt the idea.






Here's a closeup of one of the clamping blocks that lock to the luggage plate:









That quick release clamp was scavenged from an old mountain bike.
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That amazon rack mounts to the nylon rack in the back and uses the same hard mounting points as the nylon rack in the front.

The nylon rack should be plenty strong enough. It would proably take a crash to get one to fail.
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I'm with Rick

I don't see a problem with mounting the bag to the Suzuki rack.

If you plan on some big loads you may want to reinforce the case a little to spread the load.

I think the rack in your link is just adding weight without spreading the load or taking it off the rack.
That amazon rack mounts to the nylon rack in the back and uses the same hard mounting points as the nylon rack in the front.

The nylon rack should be plenty strong enough. It would proably take a crash to get one to fail.
This is what I was thinking ... the load capacity on the rear rack is 22 lbs (probably a little underestimated), and I don't really plan on stuffing this case with heavy gear
I'm with Rick

I don't see a problem with mounting the bag to the Suzuki rack.

If you plan on some big loads you may want to reinforce the case a little to spread the load.

I think the rack in your link is just adding weight without spreading the load or taking it off the rack.
yeah I was thinking about that when I bought it, you and rick might be right... we'll see its functionality and how it installs when it comes in
I mounted my Harbor freight pelican knock off using three bolts and the OEM rack.

I replaced the two front mounting blots with longer bolts, spacers and some fender washers. The I used the same bolt size, a nut and a couple of fender washers and place one hole toward the back side and bottom of case and just ran it thru the rack. No drilling of the rack.

I believe I used the Apache 3800 case. I use it to replace my tank bag and carry some stuff I always carry in my side cases. I don't know how much weight I cary in the case but it does have an air compressor and patch kit, tools, straps, gloves and the other junk one may carry all the time.

I have a several hundred mile on the bike since I installed and it is solid and has not fallen off.
do you have pictures of this set up? I was thinking of getting the 3800 as well. only thing I see being an issue with mounting to the stock rack is that the arms of the rack extend upward near the front of the rack. which might force me to mount the case further back on the rack than I'd want to, so that the case can sit flush against the rack. if that makes sense.
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The box can't go too far forward if you want to be able to remove the seat without removing the box first.
A picture of what you are mounting it too would be very helpful. Might only need a few small bolts and accouple fender washers to get the desired effect.

FWIW HF Apache cases while they are decent knockoffs that are reasonably priced they are not Pelican by any stretch of the truth.
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Here are some pictures and an install explanation.

I removed the 2 bolts that hold the rack to the subframe and replaced with longer bolts. I also got a couple of spacers I want to say 3/4" in length. They go in the recessed hole in the rack. I reused one of the OEM bolt for the single bolt toward the rear of the box. Ace hardware is your friend they will have everything. I think I might put an aluminum plate in the bottom of the case to replace the fender washers. 1/8" thick

And are they equal to Pelican maybe not but they are a third to half the price. And does it matter?

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Here are some pictures and an install explanation.

I removed the 2 bolts that hold the rack to the subframe and replaced with longer bolts. I also got a couple of spacers I want to say 3/4" in length. They go in the recessed hole in the rack. I reused one of the OEM bolt for the single bolt toward the rear of the box. Ace hardware is your friend they will have everything. I think I might put an aluminum plate in the bottom of the case to replace the fender washers. 1/8" thick

And are they equal to Pelican maybe not but they are a third to half the price. And does it matter?
Agreed that Pelican is probably overkill in this instance and the Apache will works a treat. I have used both FWIW.

Now onto mounting to the wimpy OEM plastic rack that should be more than adequate as its doubtful you'll be loading it up with lead wheel weights or bricks. It will easily handle 15 to 20 pounds of stuff (which is a lot) plus the case without worry.

The only thing I'd do different is for bolts I'd use stove or button head bolts as they do not have sharp edges like cap bolts. That way if you toss a can of soda in there its less likely to pierce the can as it rolls around. Another thing to do is head down to the local carpet store and get small piece of low pile carpet to toss in the bottom of the case to act as a softie. It'll cover up the bolts like they were never there. You could use a couple small piece of stick-on hook and loop tape to keep it from moving around.

While you are at harbor freight get you a small 8" battery powered LED undercabinet light (they are on clearance for $4.97) and stick it inside the case. It works t illuminate the top case/pannier or can be taken off (again mount with hook and loop tape) and used as a roadside light if needed.
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The cases come with foam so I have a 1" foam pad over the bottom and egg crate in the case top. This helps keep tings quite and the bolts are not exposed to the things in the case.
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22 pounds is the lawyer spec. It's there to limit liability to Suzuki. I have had way more than 22 pounds in my topcase before. However, the fist really funny story I ever heard about a V-Strom involed a bowling bowel bag in the top case and the resultant change in the hieght of the center of gravity.
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The box can't go too far forward if you want to be able to remove the seat without removing the box first.
Good point. didn’t think of that. still getting used to how easy it is to remove a vstrom seat (coming from a KLR… which may or may not be my profile picture currently)

Here are some pictures and an install explanation.

I removed the 2 bolts that hold the rack to the subframe and replaced with longer bolts. I also got a couple of spacers I want to say 3/4" in length. They go in the recessed hole in the rack. I reused one of the OEM bolt for the single bolt toward the rear of the box. Ace hardware is your friend they will have everything. I think I might put an aluminum plate in the bottom of the case to replace the fender washers. 1/8" thick

And are they equal to Pelican maybe not but they are a third to half the price. And does it matter?

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awesome pictures, thanks so much. I got the same color apache 3800 today at harbor freight for $45. looks great. Only thing I’ll change from your set-up is I’ll use button head bolts instead of hex bolts (as Perazzi suggested) and I think I want to put 2 bolts in the rear on either side instead of a single bolt in the middle… time to run to ace before they close
Make sure you can get the replacement bolts in metric
I have a thin bit of white packing foam in the bottom of my box, it really reflects light, brightens things up & makes it easy to see.

That light color bag proves the point, if it were black you would have trouble seeing the bolts.

I also have 3mm bungee cord in the lid to keep small items like maps, gloves and house keys easy to get at.
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Late to the thread!

Wanted to share what I'm finding to be a surprisingly helpful set-up. I'm using an older, slightly smaller version of this 6.5L $30 knockoff brand drycase:
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I had the case sitting around unused for years. Figured it was worth sacrificing and trying to directly mount it to factory rack on my 2020 WeeStrom.

Took the rack off the bike and had my son hold it and mark the bottom of box where to drill through the rearmost two holes on the rack. The holes are 3.5" apart:
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I sacrificed water tight, drilled straight through the box and attached box using stainless steel hardware from Home Depot:
  • Two 1/4" x 1 1/2" long bolts (phillips / flat slotted heads)
  • Two 1/4" nuts
  • Two 1/4" flat washers (between bolt heads and bottom of rack)
  • Two nylon spacers:
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Complete dumb luck, but these washers sit right in the square holes between the rack and the top box and level it!

I intend to add either two 1" washers inside the box or a 4" stainless mending plate to spread out the weight a little better. Possibly add caulk or a strip of rubber to function as a gasket to keep splashes at bay..

I had a roll of DOT reflective tape, so added some strips to increase low light visibility.

The box is tiny - it only has about 6.5L internal space, but its been a game changer. Field testing confirms it will get a six pack of tall boys home safely

I carry a ball cap, couple small water bottles and disk brake lock in it. On my maiden ride with it, found it nice to lock my gloves rather than carry them when we get off the bikes.

On one hand, it's not going to stop anyone really determined to take it. On the other, it's proving less goofy and more useful than I'd ever imagined.

Curious to hear Stromtrooper cheers and jeers on it.
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