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Thanks so much for posting this. I have a K7 and have been looking at the Innovv K2 system for it.

Overall how do you like the system so far?
I didn't get the K2 system for my bike, I think the op did. I got the Sykik Rider RW1 which is less money and less quality then the K2. I've only looked at the video once on the computer from my camera and it's pretty meh as far as image quality. I wouldn't recommend the 720p if you can afford better.
 

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On my 2008...
Thanks so much for posting this. I have a K7 and have been looking at the Innovv K2 system for it.

Overall how do you like the system so far?
Depends on your intended use. I use mine for recording insurance evidence and the odd goofball doing something stupid on the road. It may or may not serve for capturing scenery and ride videos.

The smoothest videos will come from body or helmet mounted camera (if you can tolerate the looking back and forth). I used a prism tube on my helmet. All remote mounted cameras will have crappy battery life... Around 2 hrs. Works for a 30 minute commute each way but that is about it. I even used a USB cable under my jacket and to the power accessory port on the Vee2 dash. Worked well until dumping the bike and stepping far enough away to wrench the cord and camera's socket. Maybe cable for street and go back to battery for dirt and snow.

The K2 image quality is on par for a 1080p dash camera. Love the front and rear videos stitched together with gforce and GPS data and played on the same time scale. Some comments about it using too much power when off/standby.

I mounted the DVR unit under the seat and so either the microphone is malfunctioning or the under seat enclosure and vibrations completely screws up the audio, cuz it was messed up more than just muffled. I just turned the audio record feature off (always do for dash cams).

As posted previously I had a pretty buzzy rear camera mount so I removed it from the "L-bracket" and mounted it directly to the underside of my aluminum Givi monokey top box mount plate (using one of the rubber isolation washers between the plate and he camera mount) Drilled a 15/64" (one size smaller than 1/4") and using a 1/2" counter sink drill bit, I cut it down so the M6x1.0 x 20mm long screw would sit flush. I haven't had a chance to test its video buzz and ripping yet due to the rain and snow fall here. Probably another week before a break in the weather.

I'll get an updated pic of the new rear mount in the morning.

Edit: See post below for the new rear mount photos.
 

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Fantastic, exactly what I was interested in!

Insurance evidence is my primary need too.

It sounds like we tried some of the same things. I messed about with a couple of "action" cams last spring and found them totally unsatisfactory. Image quality and reliability with
cheap GoPro knockoffs was absolute garbage. Even a genuine GoPro would have the endurance and convenience problems as noted. So I researched permanently installed "dashcam" type systems.

Had to wait a while for the Innovv K2 to become available.

As for the battery drain problem: it's discussed over on dashcamtalk forums as well. I believe it can be avoided by just not using parking mode. That should be ok because I generally park in a secure place, so I don't really need parking mode.

I didn't really expect to record sound. It would be little more than wind and engine noise anyway. The front and rear videos are going to be the most useful parts for evidence purposes.

Thanks so much for the comments!
 

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Pics of the new rear camera mount...

Unfortunately, the local hardware store had a limited selection of metric countersunk bolts. Had to settle for a Phillips. Once I come across a socket head, I'll probably swap it out. Also I'm a bit concerned about having cut the anodizing off for the bolt hole. Maybe some anti-seize or some such goo to help prevent it from corroding and locking up.
 

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The roads around here finally dried up enough with the temperature high enough to exclude the possibility of black ice, so I got a chance to test the new rear camera mount. The base is definitely still a bit shaky, more so than the front, but at least the engine rpm induced ripping/tearing is completely gone. I think the mount is plenty tight, but the tail fin of the bike is just that unsettled. I figured that the tail end would be bumpy due to the long leverarm but had hoped for the best. All in all, it is good enough to serve as insurance evidence, but I won't be taking any mugshots with it... at least not while in motion.

One thing with the K2 is that it's a fixed bit rate system, meaning that it will "extra compress" frames with a lot of changes to maintain its target data bandwidth, so the bumpiness may result in lower quality image overall than a rock steady vibration free mount would. Although the difference might not be enough to cross that "noticeable" threshold. I would prefer a variable bit rate and maximum clarity or at least the choice between the two. SD cards aren't that expensive, but maybe performance memory busses are (at least more so than processors for compressing are)

The enormous Givi top box covers a little bit of the top of the image but it only blocks out a sliver of sky. Which I suppose may help a little in the bandwidth department.
 

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Wonder if this is somewhat specific to the Vstrom?

The sample K2 footage I saw last fall was recorded on some other bike, possibly a Triumph. The rear view was reasonably clear and steady. I don't remember any tearing.

He was on well-maintained paved roads the whole time, though.

On dirt roads, I'll be pleasantly surprised if I get video that fails to induce motion sickness. That's not what the system's really for though in my case, it's to capture people driving badly on pavement.

I would also prefer adjustable bitrate, but it doesn't seem there's any choice for now.
 

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The tearing I had was rpm related and was exacerbated by the camera being mounted using the provided L-bracket. Which gave it a little lever arm for amplifying vibrations. Once I mounted it without the extending L-bracket the tearing stopped. If the L-bracket were more rigid, like perhaps C-channel it may have been OK. In the end, reinforcing it or using tougher metal wasn't practical for the space allowed, so I mounted it directly to the Givi plate. Probably as good as I'll get without some fancy buffering system. I've often wordered about using some RC truck shocks... Hmmmm
 

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A sufficient quantity of rubber washers/spacers might eat up enough vibration to make a difference.

Do you find that glow from the tail light is a problem at night?

I have a different mounting plate for my top case but same idea, so I'll probably mount it in the same location as yours.

Would it be possible to mount the rear camera on top of the license plate lamp housing?
 

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I apologize for the delayed response. I was hoping to grab some day/night images from the camera to post, but have not been able to...yet...

A sufficient quantity of rubber washers/spacers might eat up enough vibration to make a difference.
I have one of the included rubber washers between the plate and the mount base. I would normally put an additional washer between the bolt head and the plate (such that there is a rubber washer on both sides of the plate being mounted to). However, because the bolt head would be between my top box and it's mount plate, I was concerned about clearance and therefore used a countersunk bolt. I might be able to put a thin layer of rubber in the countersink bore, say from a bicycle tube... I think that vibrations from the bike are pretty well handled and I suspect that the bumps in the video are from the mount base (i.e. Givi plate) because it is actually moving that much.

Do you find that glow from the tail light is a problem at night?
When I originally held the cameras up in those positions (before mounting them) to test for image and light bleed, I didn't have any problems with light's from the bike in the video for the front or rear. My original rear mount was actually closer to the tail light. However, I have not confirmed the light at night with the new mount location. I will post some still shots from day and night for comparison as soon as I can get them. I don't expect to have any problem with the light bleed. Perhaps some reflection from the bottom of the top case, but since it is matte black I don't expect too much trouble. The front camera sits right in front of the parking light bulb and just below the main headlamp (see pics in previous post) and those were not affected at all during night running.

Would it be possible to mount the rear camera on top of the license plate lamp housing?
Yes, I think so. There is a ton of space inside that little reflector / license plate box for the bolt head and rubber washer (the bolt provided is low profile). I thought about that myself, but opted out because it is quite bouncy / loose. The license plate lamp housing is mounted onto the plastic fender, and not close to any of the hard mount points so there is plenty of movement there. Additionally, the license plate lamp housing is mounted using bolts with metal spacers (i.e. hard stops). You can't tighten it down to firm it up. Once the bolts bottom out, the distance is fixed. All you could do is add some rubber layers between it and the fender to make it tighter. But the fender itself will still move a bunch.

When checking for possible mount points, I would grab the potential piece and try to wiggle it by hand. My beak was fairly rigid, with a tiny bit of give. The Givi plate has zero give, and the license plate lamp housing has a bunch of give easily 3x-5x as much as my beak.

One other thing to consider is that the inside of the license plate lamp housing is a bugger to access and requires removal from the fender (Vee2). It only opens from the back. The shop manual calls for removing the whole fender, but you can access the two nuts without removing the fender. Two nuts to get it off the fender, then two screws to release the reflector lens. You will need to open up the license plate lamp housing (i.e. uninstall it from the fender) every time you want to tighten or loosen the bolt used to mount the camera. I mention this because the camera mount in the front of my bike is down inside the "channel" in the beak and I cannot access the side bolts to tighten/loosen them for adjusting the camera without first removing the whole assembly from the beak. So if my camera is just 0.5 degree rotated from parallel to the ground, I have to completely uninstall it to adjust it, then put it all back together to test it, rinse and repeat.
 

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So it seems that the underside of the top case mounting plate is pretty much the only good location for the rear camera.

I also thought about sticking it on the top case lid. The view would be excellent, but the camera would get absolutely roasted in our summers. I know it's supposed to be ruggedized, but it gets DAMN hot here and the sun is brutal on things, especially electronics. Would not want to take the chance.

At least under the plate, it's in the shade most of the time.

I do not feel good about relying solely on adhesive to hold the camera there though, so like you I'll probably end up drilling a hole for some kind of hard mount.

A sufficient amount of soft rubber ought to cut down on the bumpies, but I think that's about all one can do.

Front camera will likely go where that other fellow put his Sykik front camera: underside of cowling. There is nothing hard to mount on unfortunately, it's all plastic down there. But maybe it won't be too much of an issue. I expect some experimentation will be required.
 

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Does anyone have the dimensions of the K2's DVR handy?

Initial thought was to install it under the seat, but I'm not sure it will fit. Also somewhere else might be best for ventilation. Some folks are apparently having their K2 DVR get hot enough on long rides to induce malfunction, when mounted in enclosed locations.
 

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Including the wires the length will need about 125mm, the width is 60mm and the thickness is 15mm. However you will need to be able to extract and replace the SD card from the side and the button sticks up on the top.

I tried to attach pictures but the "manage attachments" link is still crashing and goes nowhere.

Mine is "mounted" under the seat but I couldn't get the SD card in and out so it is just loose in there along with a rats nest of leftover wire length. Might have to redo some of that business. Heat has not been a problem so far but the summer temps have not come into play yet. But I don't think that underseat compartment is all that closed off. I have found dirt and water in there. Not as much breeze as other places for sure.
 

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Pics added...finally.

Also, I generally keep the owners manual, registration, and an emergency tire and towing kit in there. It is packed full. I have been looping a few of the wires over the face of the DVR to protect the power button from inadvertent presses by the tire kit.
 

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Thanks so much!

The DVR is smaller than I thought so shouldn't be a problem finding a place to stash it.

Slightly concerned about the DVR overheating because one respondent on the Dashcamtalk forum had his get wonky. He reported that on short rides it was fine, but on long ones the DVR got too hot to hold for more than a few seconds (!) and would refuse to shut off normally (eventually he had to pull its fuse to kill the power).

I'll likely mount my DVR using self-adhesive Velcro. It is decent for holding in place things which are very lightweight but need to be moved/removed semi-frequently. Hope the heat isn't an issue but time will tell.
 

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For anyone still watching this thread... Here is a little sample that was recorded on my K2 awhile back. YouTube probably downgraded the image quality, so take that with a grain of salt...

It appears that someone needs to explain the new Utah Lane Filtering laws a little better... A potential near miss for me, luckily didn't come over more into my space. Didn't work out so well for the other party. (Look closely at the rear footage.)

Front:

Rear:
 

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Thanks for posting that. Yes, still interested. Can't watch the videos yet - our network at the office is garbage - so I'll save them for at home tonight.

In the last few weeks, I finally got around to installing a dashcam system in my car, the Viofo A129 Duo. Now that I've had a chance to see how it works and what was involved in wiring it in, I'm better prepared for installing the Innovv K2.

It will be interesting to see the visible differences, if any, of video quality between the A129 vs. K2 systems. Both are fixed-bitrate systems, but the A129 records at 20 Mbit/s. Can't find solid info for the K2 bitrate - can you tell us what your videos show?

GPS antenna will likely go on my top case adapter plate. Best unobstructed view of the sky (GPS signals don't care much about plastic), with a nice ground plane, anywhere on the bike.

Under the seat still looks good for the DVR.

I bought a pair of Samsung Pro Endurance 128GB microSD cards for my car dashcam. Haven't decided what to get for the K2. Transcend High Endurance cards are supposed to be the "gold standard" for dashcams, but holy hell are they expensive.

Can you comment on how good/bad the WiFi access to the K2 has been? My Viofo A129 has a smartphone app and WiFi, but the access is hot garbage in practice.
 

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This is getting weird - there seems to be NO published info whatever on the bitrate of the K2 system. The only published data is a chart from Innovv showing storage used by the K2 system vs. the older C5.

Based on that, I estimate the K2 is recording at about 28 Mbit/s. Not too shabby.

One of the vendors (OCDTronic) says in an Amazon review comment that there's a special "private" firmware which can optionally boost the bitrate of the K2 for higher-quality video, at the expense of storage efficiency. You do need a faster SD card (U3) to work with it. I've asked about this over at the Dashcamtalk.com forums but it may take some time for a response.
 

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Sorry it took so long...

My InovvK2 files are 1 minute long and report as 91,823 KB... You can probably figure out the bitrate from that. They are [email protected] and I have turned OFF the sound.

I thought I had posted this link before, but I guess that was just an undeveloped draft... CarCamCentral has put together a pretty good set of articles (and a video) about SD cards and using them in surveillance applications. They are also still actively updating it for the new cards coming on the market. I linked the article because I prefer to read, but you can probably find a link to the video embedded in their article or just google it.

I have started putting the Samsung Pro Endurance in whenever a new SD card is needed (even in the cell phones). I typically run 128GB as a primary and keep a smaller one (which may not be the top end stuff) in each vehicle as a backup. I also carry an SD card reader (in the zipper pocket of my riding jacket) that can be plugged into the micro USB on my cell phone so I can copy large blocks of video on the road if needed. I recently copied a full card dump to the computer and it contains about 1,350x 1 minute files. Divide by two for front and rear and you get about 11.25 hours of record time.

I have generally only used the WiFi to monitor real time video (for installation/alignment). Occasionally, if something rare occurs on the way to work I'll scan/review and maybe copy one or two 1 minute files to my phone using WiFi if I want to show the buddies. However, given the huge recording volume of 128GB it is generally safe to wait until I get home then remove the card and plug it into a USB 3.0 port directly. WiFi will always be cold molasses compared to direct copy by mounting the card. Just make sure you are using a port that is at least USB 3.0.

As for the interface and function, it was adequate to get the job done. They all have different ways of doing things, but are generally intuitive enough to not need instructions. I thought I came across a video that demos the InnovvK2 app somewhere, but could be imagining things.

I have an A129S in my son's car. It does a pretty good job for forward looking only. It has the nice Sony (hence the "S") camera chip. It can do 4K, parking recording, and a bunch of other things that I never use. I pretty much just set it to 1080P and don't use any of its fanciness. I've heard that model generally recommended as the best bang for the buck dashcam since they are only about $99 US.

However, I use Thinkware units in all my other cars. The budget Thinkware for the other kid's car is about half the price of the fancy ones in the adults' cars, but it's well provisioned for the price. It has 1080P on the front, but only 720P on the rear camera. Its parking mode is buffered so you get several seconds before the bump/motion as well. I think it is set for -5s +10s. Viofo also makes a two camera budget unit (for the same price as the Thinkware budget unit) that is 1080P on both ends but it doesn't buffer it's parking mode. You only get the bump/motion (+start to record time) forward.
 

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Thanks, that seems to work out to 12 Mbit/s. I'll take a look at some of the files from my A129. Seems odd that the bitrates would be so wildly different (20 vs. 12 Mbit/s) between the A129 and K2 systems. Maybe it's a heat-management thing?

Buffered parking mode is supposed to be added to the A129 Duo via firmware update "soon." Supposedly they beta testing it, but I'll believe it when I see it. Don't care much, as I generally use motion-sensing mode.
 

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Bitrate may also be limited by the hardware in the K2... Processor too slow, or data bus or both. Otherwise they could increase it with a firmware update. Or maybe even give us the choice between constant and variable in the on board menus. Or maybe just the designers' idea of a better balance between quality and storage capacity.
 
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