StromTrooper banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,663 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Where and what to get...

If I had a seat to redo i would want the harder foam but make if level front to back

All aftermarkets seem to want a sculpted rump plus passanger

So does anyone know where a Sargeant for example gets their foam and what they call it ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,025 Posts
Visit a local auto upholstery shop. I have a friend who was in the biz for years so that's where I always went.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,748 Posts
Where and what to get...

If I had a seat to redo i would want the harder foam but make if level front to back

All aftermarkets seem to want a sculpted rump plus passanger

So does anyone know where a Sargeant for example gets their foam and what they call it ?
The problem is with seat pan - if you want to level it like a dirt bike- you will pretty much add at least 2 inch of foam if not more - if you dont have an inseam issue - great.

For more traditional foams, try this link:
Foam Types

I went with this company a few years back when i redo my seat (not the cheapest but very good results compare to other seat foams i tried)
Support Pressure Selection

I was 86kg at the time and only have a thinnly padded seat because i am inseam chanllenged - i used a thick layer of medium foam for myself and med and soft for wife. - if i redo it, i will use a lot more of the soft - it's more than adequate (esp if you are going to have a thick base- may still need medium to give some structural integrity)

have fun mate
 

·
Living the Stereotype
Joined
·
11,544 Posts
I've used 1-5/8" and 3/4" closed-cell foam.
Stacked, glued, shaped and sanded to very favorable results.
Available at larger fabric/upholstery supply stores.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,442 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
The problem is with seat pan - if you want to level it like a dirt bike- you will pretty much add at least 2 inch of foam if not more - if you dont have an inseam issue - great.
Or you can take saw to the seat pan.



and end up with something like this;



Just a little taller than stock, but the foam (sargent's supercell foam) doesn't crush down.
 

·
Official Stromtrooper.com Sponsor
Joined
·
5,406 Posts
In larger cities you will find foam shops. They sell to people that make specialized mattresses, designer chairs, and I don't know what all. Most foam is way too soft for a motorcycle seat. You want what they call Hi-density. Not sure if I like the closed cell over the open cell, I think the open conforms to your butt better. The hi-density is fairly firm, you might want to try to get 2 or 3 types of it. The harder it is the easier it is to cut. Even the harder stuff squishes down nicely after a short while under your butt so don't go too soft. Very easy to shape with an electric knife. If you have ever seen one of the discs you put on a right angle grinder ( 4 -4 1/2" ) that are used to carve wood, get one of those. Amazing control for shaping the foam.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,748 Posts
Or you can take saw to the seat pan.

and end up with something like this;

Just a little taller than stock, but the foam (sargent's supercell foam) doesn't crush down.
But the original OP says: "If I had a seat to redo i would want the harder foam but make if level front to back. All aftermarkets seem to want a sculpted rump plus passanger"

What you suggested is what most people want to do and i did it like that myself.

It begs the question- richw, is there any reason u you want it level - the rump /hump doesnt interfere with your sliding back and forth whilst standing up in my experience
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
712 Posts
The problem is with seat pan - if you want to level it like a dirt bike- you will pretty much add at least 2 inch of foam if not more - if you dont have an inseam issue - great.
Quite true. I do have a seat that is mostly straight back, at about the level of the passenger section. My jeans are a 34 inch inseam, yet I have no problem flat-footing. I'm even raising the rear of the bike 5/8" this spring. Cutting that hump off is a way around the height issue, but it's not a problem here - getting a high enough windshield because of a long torso and sitting so high is the problem. I am tackling that also this spring (thinking VStream and Madstad.).

My seat, btw, is a Sargent - specially built-to-order for another (taller) Stromtrooper who decided to go even higher. The foam Sargent used is harder, and nicer, than the stock Suzuki mush.

Marc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
712 Posts
It begs the question- richw, is there any reason u you want it level - the rump /hump doesnt interfere with your sliding back and forth whilst standing up in my experience
Well, the reasons "I" wanted it level is that:

1. the hump limits my movement on the seat. It forces me to sit in one spot.

2. The modified high and level seat makes it very easy to get up off the seat when I want to off-road, and takes a great strain off my hips and knees when sitting for hours.

Like I said, a taller windscreen, for me, is needed. Also, now that I can stand up so easily, I need higher bars and pull-backs so I can stand up a little taller and also reach the bars more easily when sitting with my ass so high. Hence, this upgrade number three this spring. I'm up to $500+ already.

And I need new tires too, dammit. and a heated jacket. and new gloves. and heated grips. and better rain gear. and a headlight relay.

and who says WeeStroms are cheap to own?

Oh, and that seat of Oldstrom's looks mighty fine. The key there is the longer level section at the front, with the hump way back. Lots of room to move. I'm happy to have the extra height of mine, though.

M
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
Rebond is the type you want to use for the base layer, Solid, firm support. Leave the stock foam in place, but cut down the hump as necessary. The stock foam makes a great base, and it is much easier to add foam to it than to start from the pan. You'll want a 1" thick piece of soft foam over the whole thing when you're finished. It compresses a large amount, and if you don't use it your butt will get hot fast riding directly on the rebond. Use some good quality aerosol upholstery adhesive between the layers.

Get an electric carving knife and an orbital sander, and have at it. Once you think you have it right, test it for many miles, then tweak it, ride, and repeat as often as it takes. I did mine a couple years ago, adding about 2 inches or so to the height. I went on a 4300 mile trip about 2 weeks after I felt I had finally dialed it in, and it was fantastic. A very worthwhile and rewarding effort.

Good luck.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top