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I have never replaced a rivet-type chain before but I did my best to follow the various online guides for replacing the chain on my 2006 V-Strom. I think I messed this up and would like your opinion.

A Pit Posse chain tool was used for the job. I believe I over-tightened the plate when I pressed it on and now one of o-rings is “squished out” slightly. I called Drive Systems USA and they said that with use, the plates will sometimes loosen slightly and allow the o-ring to back in. They recommended I put 100 miles on the chain and see what happens.

First, did I mess up the link by overtightening it? Second, did I expand the rivet enough? Here’s some pics:







A view of the opposite side:




What have I done? What should I do now? All advice and comments are welcome. Thanks.
 

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Yes awnser this question I have one on a bike ( not mine ) right now ready to crimp and need to know. I have always used the clip type and never hade one fail.
 

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That link won't last long. Redo it. Clip links are not recommended.

Pressing the plates and lubing the pins are the most critical part of installing rivit links.
Unless done right, it won't last till the water gets hot.
 

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Pay the $15 for a new master link and re-install it, if nothing else just for the piece of mind. You will need to grind away the old rivets and destroy the link to remove it. I used a set of digital calipers ($12 at harbor-freight) to check my progress while tightening. Measure a couple of other chain links to get a baseline of the width.
 

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That link won't last long. Redo it. Clip links are not recommended.
Curious, why are the clip type chains not recommended? On all my other bikes I replaced chains that had the "master link" with the clip that went over the one side and never had an issue with them. Just curious...:beatnik:
 

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plate spacers

When I did mine last year, the master link came with two little plate spacers to prevent me from crushing the o-rings. They were a bitch to get out after I crimped the rivets, but they did the job. The chain and sprocket kit came from Blair at SV Racing. I used the cheap Harbor Freight chain breaker to rivit the master link.
 

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Curious, why are the clip type chains not recommended? On all my other bikes I replaced chains that had the "master link" with the clip that went over the one side and never had an issue with them. Just curious...:beatnik:
The usual answer is that the clip will pop off and then your chain.
Dirt bikes use them all the time in my day and they took a lot of punishment Rocks twigs and dirt:thumbup:
They usually fail because of improper installation.
The photo shows the factory crimp in four places and they look larger dia. Than the home made one.
So out the window with the comparison between the two.:confused:
 

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Curious, why are the clip type chains not recommended? On all my other bikes I replaced chains that had the "master link" with the clip that went over the one side and never had an issue with them. Just curious...:beatnik:
If all your "other bikes" were over 60hp and rode hard (wide open throttle) on the street most the time, then I''l back off a little.
 

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It's interesting the way people go about evaluating risk. Two big issues are the overvaluing of direct personal experience, and difficulty in judging the risk in a low probability event that has potentially severe consequences.

People tend to say, "I've never had one come off, so it's not an issue if done properly". If your experience is wider though, by working in a shop or racing for a lot of years, you most likely have seen a lot of thrown chains. Maybe not one of your own, certainly not a high percentage, but a lot in raw numbers. You probably know of competent mechanics that it's happened to. So it can happen, even to people who know what they're doing.
Now the question is, if you use a clip link, what's the chance of it coming off, and what happens if it does?
My guess, for a competent, careful guy who rides a fair number of miles for a lot of years, maybe 10%. If it does come off, the chain may just drop to road. Or it may bunch up between the C/S and the cases, breaking them. Or cause your rear wheel to lock and you to crash. Depending on when that happens, you may be seriously injured or die.

A nice chain tool set costs about $100. (there are cheaper options) I'll replace dozens of chains on my personal bikes with it over the years. It takes maybe 5 minutes longer to do a rivet link. To me, that's worth it to go from a low probability of a seriously bad event to a (virtually) zero probability.

Make your decision based on the cost/benefit ratio that you're comfortable with, but at least evaluate cost and benefit rationally and logically.
 

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1 Of the companies have screw on master links I will be there next time.

I have/do use masterlinks and trouble comes from poor installation as not to abuse the spring clip

Note sealed master links are NOT universal and should be specific to the chain make and type

I have seen chain tools fro $10 to 100

There are usually specials for like 29 or 39 for decent ones
 

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If all your "other bikes" were over 60hp and rode hard (wide open throttle) on the street most the time, then I''l back off a little.
No need to "back of a little". I was just curious, that's all. None of my other bikes had over 60 HP and the only one I rode with full throttle most all the time was a little 125 Honda from 1975 (great bike BTW). Ran the snot out of that bike and it just kept going, with no complaining.

Guess I'm just a little "dated" and maybe out of the loop when it comes to chains nowadays. Suppose most chains now come apart? Are they making them that much cheaper?

Like I said, just wondering. I haven't had to replace the one on the strom yet...:beatnik:
 
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