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Discussion Starter #1
I have discovered that when adjusting the back screw while balancing the throttle bodies, I can get the two columns of ATF (homemade manometer) to level out without too much difficulty. I then blip the throttle, which causes the levels to rise slightly, but then settle back down to "idle" levels. As the bike idles, the levels of ATF gradually drift out of level again. I observed this several times last night before giving up for the evening.
I assume this means that the spring-loaded adjustment screw is loose enough to vibrate during idle. :confused: If that is the case, would a drop of some type of thread locking compound (blue lock-tite?) do the trick?

I am finishing up my valve clearance check/spark plug replacement/oil-filter change, etc... Air cleaner is still basically clean (K&N) This is my '06 Wee.

...any ideas would be appreciated. :thumbup:
 

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A dab of fingernail polish will lock the screw "externally." Loctite on the threads might be too much, even the blue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
any recommendations on color? :mrgreen:

I tried that the last time I checked it, but I might not have stopped the engine quickly enough to prevent it from vibrating out of adjustment before applying the polish.

Whatever I do, I just don't want it to move around, once it's adjusted.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
update: I used the fingernail polish to lock down the screw. Started the engine, still connected to the manometer. Let it warm up and it was still pretty close to even.. maybe half to three quartes of an inch difference. It started drifting apart again. It would drift to probably 6" difference on the manometer. When I would rev the engine to about 1900 rpm and hold it, it would level out to exactly even. When allowed to drop back to idle, about 1150-1200 rpm, it would start drifting apart again. Throttle back up to 1900, and it evened out, back to idle, starts drifting again.
I'm baffled.
 

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No ideas? I can't seem to find any reference to drifting vacuum levels.
I believe I read a post from somebody that some drifting of the vacuum is normal, especially on the hand-crafted meters. There is a method for taking some of the sensitivty out of the manometer to help you average it out. I can't say if what you're experiencing is typical or not.

Riva Motorsports did my TBS at 20k. Its been running great ever since.
 

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No tech questions by PM please. The Vee owners have better info than me. I don't pay much attention to TBSing having a 2007 Wee. I had it done once but it's only for idle mixture on my bike. It's the only work I ever had done by a dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
:confused:

I didn't send a pm... perhaps someone else did?

guess I'll just button it back up and run it. If it acts squirrelly.... well, it'll be a good match for the rider..:mrgreen:

Thanks, all...
 

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My guess is that the tubing of the homemade manometer fits slightly better at one TB than the other. While idling it slowly allows a tiny bit of air to get by. When you rev it, the seal gets better (or worse on the other side).

Also, double check your TB to engine boots. They are notorious for having loose clamps and sometimes the TBs will pop out altogether during a backfire or a rough landing from a wheelie. Found mine just sitting on top of the boot. Rev it up and it would suck itself back down. During idle it would vibrate up and out. Sure runs better after you fix it!
 

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:confused:

I didn't send a pm... perhaps someone else did?
Kenneth Moore edited out a suggestion to PM me after I posted the request not to..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Modaddy... thanks. I'll give that a shot. I don't THINK the vacuum tubes are loose, they're pretty new, but I'll check it, to be sure.
The boots could be an issue.. I've never looked at those.
 

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